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Rhyscar's Toyota Levin - ‘fab it all from scratch’ project


Rhyscar

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I would probably look at hard mounting the airbox to the chassis, and then having backing plate part that fixes to the engine. With some sort of rubber interface that allows movement between the two. 

As if you have the whole airbox off the motor like a big lever arm, 1 degree of movement ends up a lot of mm of vertical travel at the very end. 

Something like this maybe 

image.png.adc712172bec868e6d2896772240062e.png


EDIT: probably one of the most important overall things, is having as much clear area as possible around the perimeter of the trumpet, including the top face to the bonnet. 
 

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@Roman the trumpets won’t be too bad. I’ve got 130mm length to play with and the weird shape bit will be in the first 50mm.
 

I don’t think oval vs round trumpet entry will make much difference based on what Kpr has tested. 
 

The thing is even with a curved manifold I still only have the same amount of space to work with, it just makes one part slightly easier (but still quite difficult). 
 

 

@Truenotch that’s a great idea!. Would be easy to get all the flanges nice and square and could even add in some of those half round bit of trimming wood (dunno the right terminology here) to give the flat base some ribs. 

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1 hour ago, Roman said:

I would probably look at hard mounting the airbox to the chassis, and then having backing plate part that fixes to the engine. With some sort of rubber interface that allows movement between the two. 

As if you have the whole airbox off the motor like a big lever arm, 1 degree of movement ends up a lot of mm of vertical travel at the very end. 

Something like this maybe 

image.png.adc712172bec868e6d2896772240062e.png


EDIT: probably one of the most important overall things, is having as much clear area as possible around the perimeter of the trumpet, including the top face to the bonnet. 
 


I’ve looked high and low for a rubber seal that can be used like this and haven’t found anything. Would love to know if people have seen this type of corrogated bellows!!
 

The engine is REALLY solidly mounted, and my exhaust manifold has a similar level of clearance :grin: so I don’t think I’d more than 5mm of movement at the end. Also had a thought that the filter should be permanently attached to the grill in a aluminium slot thing that has the airbox slot into it and semi-seal with foam or rubber. (Hard to explain clearly sorry) 


All this has also made me realise that in 100% gauranteed to damage the airbox if I nudge a bank or another car on the racetrack. Both are foreseeable events :grin:

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8 minutes ago, Rhyscar said:


I’ve looked high and low for a rubber seal that can be used like this and haven’t found anything. Would love to know if people have seen this type of corrogated bellows!!
 

The engine is REALLY solidly mounted, and my exhaust manifold has a similar level of clearance 

Depending on size could you 3d print something in TPU (depending on under bonnet temps as I think its good to circa 138c)

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You could make a flappy flange sandwich (uhh... a what?) with 3 layers of flat rubber, or a layer of rubber / plastic that slides in a gap between two layers of aluminium. 

That way the engine can rock a bit and the flange will slide freely.

No need for ramen cups if you have a flappy sandwich.

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10 hours ago, Truenotch said:

flappy flange sandwich

I was going to try and draw this today because I think it's an idea that could actually work, but it's too hard. I'll make a cardboard flange sandwich later today to show what I was thinking. 

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39 minutes ago, Roman said:

@Truenotch it sounds like you're going to be making some sort of cardboard based erotica? 

...Subscribed

Yeah kinda worried about what Dr Dre has been teaching him at the High Penetration Academy 

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So had another crack at this and surprised myself by how good the brain is at visualising and adjusting spline curves. 
 

After half a dozen goes at getting the trumpet to have the right amount of droop came up with this which is the best solution. Has 25mm to top and bottom of the airbox. Aiming for 330mm intake length. Around 200mm from valve to end of throttles so trumpet 130mm long. 

IMG_2895.jpeg.ecd22dd84e5d8b9a0711ccbae02c2cba.jpeg

 

Also decided to shorten the airbox section. I’ll make a aluminium duct that connects the grill (actually it doesn’t need to physically connect, just be close) to the filter. This means that a crash will only damage (hopefully) the easily replaceable aluminium duct work and not damage the airbox.
 

Ive chosen to end it slightly in front of the radiator so I could run without a front duct without impacting performance too much. 

IMG_2896.jpeg.4ff180b052628e9235c6066e58c6560b.jpeg

With my cardboard aids this will actually be quite easy to draw up in solidworks. Bonus of 3d printing being that it can all be one piece, and the trumpets can kiss/join with the top outer edge of the airbox for extra strength. Lots of creative options here. 
 

Also found a k&n filter about the right size that will do the trick

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/knn-33-2937


 

The seemingly impossible task of the airbox is now very achievable, just got to keep moving forward on it now. 

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