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(re)Tuning my LINK for drivability, help! (new turbo)


zep

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Make some time to get the wideband on the car, then get some GC to tweak things on the way down :)

I wish I had that time, but sadly no. And no GC who has any idea what they are doing, only Thriller, and we all know that he's an idiot :P

Shit I'll give it a go but dont really know what I'm mean't to be doing!

Cam: I'll drive the 86 (very carefully!) and you can tune the gem on the way down?

75 has no wof (and wont get one till parts arrive) unfortunately

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It sounds like a plan, assuming Cam is okay with this and thinks he knows what he's doing :P

How does the wideband attach/fit in though? I'm not sure I have a bung in the new setup.

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That's a possibility, got a million holes in the boot.

Well, pretty much what I'm going to do is reduce the boost. It's not the BEST option but it really is my only one in the short term to get to Nats. Long distance driving is generally done off boost anyway. The car is tuned for this so I assume it will be safe enough to drive at 100kph off boost.

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Thanks Spencer!

Thanks Fred.

No problem :-)

All this is pointing to me not being able to drive this fucking thing to Nats.

Drive it down, just don't drive it hard. Nats = driving like pussies anyway, we all know this, 'cept our two rotor boys :wink:

MY last tune was using an AFR of around 13.0. I believe this is rather high?

It's on the "tight" side, but depending on the fuel that you use and the compression ratio, quench, chamber design, etc, could be perfectly fine. As pressure levels go up, though, you can add more octane or more fuel, the latter cools the charge, both stop it detonating. You can also retard the timing for the same end effect.

Typically your WOT tune on an NA car will be in the 12.5 to 13.5 area, depending on many factors, and for a turbo, 10 to 12.5, my truck was running 11:1 originally, which was too rich, but it was safe and made too much power anyway. Also, your AFRs are going to be different all over the show. Idle will usually be a bit rich (though my truck ran best at or near stoich), low load and light cruise around stoich, full load as discussed, etc.

While I have no way of testing this, the turbo is not hugely bigger than the old one so potentially I will not be increasing my air volume by too much, therefore not leaning it too much.

I think it's wrong to assume that it'll not do much. If the design is a lot better (or worse) then it could make a significant difference and potentially be better even when smaller.

Make some time to get the wideband on the car, then get some GC to tweak things on the way down :)

BIG +1

get to nats, ill bring my tail pipe tube, you can tune while bored on friday and do skids at gymkana on saturday.

Take this offer! Zep, you just stuff a tube a foot or two up the tail pipe (to avoid clean air contamination) and the sensor mounts in that and that mounts to the tail pipe. Many people tune like this all the time. Try to get it connected to the link for logging, though. If not, you can still do it just by watching the numbers while you drive. My road trip volvo got tuned by feel without a wideband while driving across Florida, and that was with brand new software that had never been used before. It was NA, though, and doing the same with a turbo car is riskier and more difficult for a variety of reasons.

Does anyone coming to nats actually know how to tune a link?

Dude, this doesn't matter. It doesn't even really exist. When a tuning place that is charging by the hour says "we only tune links" it's because if they say "we'll tune your megajizz" then they lose the margin that they put on the links that they sell :wink: If the software is available and doesn't suck, anyone with some basic knowledge can do an at least OK tune on almost any non-extreme car/setup. It's not the black art that it always seemed to be...

IE, there is no reason for Cam to do it over Jess, they could take turns, it doesn't matter much :-)

When my ute got tuned, at 3am, in the rain, on snow tyres, it was done by my step brother who had never tuned anything before. Neither had I. WELL before FreeEMS was even a dream. He picked it up in minutes and got it running pretty nice inside an hour or so of screwing around trying not to end up in a tree sideways in the rain. Yep, tuned while sideways/free revving in the wet. Traction makes it easier, though :wink:

Fred.

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I can tune it. All the software is the same. Anyway, all we really want to do is check whats going on first and foremost.

I'll bring my wideband. 105 can bring the tail pipe tube.

Put the softer spring in the wastegate and drive gently to nats.

Problem solved!

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Cam could you bring a laptop with the PCLink software on it? Leon's linux'd up netbook doesnt like talking to the ecu. We had to borrow his dads work laptop last night to have a look at what was happening

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Leave the stiff spring in it and just don't be heavy footed. Then you can tune it for lotsa boost when down, scare Cam, and so on :-)

The turbo will still be more/less efficient with the new housing, regardless of boost/vac. Think of it like an exhaust restriction, if you go from a pea shooter to a 3 inch, expect the car to run lean :wink:

The lower gate will just mean you run it without hitting the cut, and allow you to forget to take it easy more :wink:

Fred.

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I've already got the spring, and I was planning on softening the spring anyway, so I may as well put it in, I won't be tempted to go crazy with the threat of an expensive rebuild hanging around. Physically the turbos look the same, but the comp has gone from 0.40a/r to 0.63a/r so obviously less of a restriction.

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