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DRTDVL's 1988 Peugeot 205 GTI


drtdvl

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Joe, keen as man! I'm building this xu10 head here for a mates rally car, should be a good thing. Keen to go to a solid conversion I think, super easy to do on these things. Maybe we should go solid on yours?

 

drtdvl, I see what you are saying and yes the EW is better apart from bucket size. But that alone kills them for me (I'm a cam designer and my personal #1 hate is small bucket engines - valve lift is key). Nevermind the hassle of a total engine re-wire, different engine mounts and the cost of the engine too. Does anyone make a coolant hose kit or mounts for the EW conversion?

 

edit/ Oh and the lifter pump up at 7500rpm on these engines is due to valve float and not the lifters. Lifters themselves should be good for 9000 or so, just need a decent valvespring to control the valve properly.

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haven't had any surge problems on mine as yet and have pushed it fairly solidly. only on the road, though. 

ken for external drains. could send you down my spare head, rob, and see what you reckon? piece of piss to pipe back to sump via oil level sender hol or pipe it back round the front. 

not sure if I CBF with more revs. Pretty happy with the factory limit at the momento. 

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Down for whatever. Just want my mi16 to be hard as nails. And no oil surge. So i can trackday the shit out of it.

 

I do have a trapdoored sump too. That helped a little but nothing to write home about.

 

Got any photos of your design? The only 100% sure way to get rid of it is to dry sump it.

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think there was some stz in his proj thread on the frogs.

all dry sump is doing is adding volume, though. scvenging pump just pumps back to tank what it's receiving and the fact you're running like 12 litres of oil gives you enough leeway for everything. it may be the only 100% fix but it's also the most expensive band-aid for whatever the root cause is

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You also make decent power gains from running a decent crankcase vacuum with a dry sump.

 

Yeah keen to check out your spare mi head Cam. Could also maybe do a cam at the same time? You and Joe should send me a nice box of Peugeot goodies. Will be like christmas. Be nice to compare to this xu10j4r head too. Looking at it the oil returns look like they could be ported, might help a bit.

 

Drtdvl, if you go EW I'm super keen to have a look at some cams for it for you!

 

I've just been playing around with valvesprings and I think an aftermarket beehive spring from a Honda B16a/B18c might fit the mi/s16/gti6 with turned down retainers. Could be the go.

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You also make decent power gains from running a decent crankcase vacuum with a dry sump.

 

Yeah keen to check out your spare mi head Cam. Could also maybe do a cam at the same time? You and Joe should send me a nice box of Peugeot goodies. Will be like christmas. Be nice to compare to this xu10j4r head too. Looking at it the oil returns look like they could be ported, might help a bit.

 

Drtdvl, if you go EW I'm super keen to have a look at some cams for it for you!

 

I've just been playing around with valvesprings and I think an aftermarket beehive spring from a Honda B16a/B18c might fit the mi/s16/gti6 with turned down retainers. Could be the go.

keen.

has had a bit of corrosion welded up and a bit of a fettle so keen for just cams and maybe look at head drains for a lol.

will speak with joe and send you a crate. and also a box of peugeot pieces

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  • 2 months later...
  • 1 year later...

Epic thread resurection....

 

I've finished up with my sports stuff so I can start to focus on getting the 205 back together... It's been a while since i looked at anything to do with the car, and well there has been a LOT of backwardsness to the project since dec 2013 at which point a cover was thrown over the car and forgotten about....

 

poor racey....

 

So it's pretty well known that the EW engines have crap manifolds... Pretty obvious to see why Longmans got 190hp from a new intake and exhaust manifold and custom ecu on one of these things...

Here is the exhaust manifold;
IMG_2542_zps9917d123.jpg

 

Satchell Engineering in the UK is currently building a jig for creating the top engine mount i'll need. So that well be a bit fabrication that i'll need to get done here for the conversion, and he's a reknown Pug nutter so yeah.

 

I took the cover off the racey at the end of December and boom:

 

86ba364601a53900a50f900ef3cd03bf.jpg

f3a38116db9580891b6db6dec0b6d89e.jpg

173eb2cad8d7872312a033719bf54a06.jpg

ebb0996b76b2dcd066535f4337c2db01.jpg

a8c4f999a31624125fc8aa811cd135cf.jpg

Stupid rust....
 

It's all suface rust but it's in places that a bitch to get to, so rather than spend a LOT of time trying to get to it all and not knowing if we did - given i want to keep the car for a long time, i figured i'll do it properly and dip it known that the acid will get EVERYTHING and leave us with a good starting point. The silver paint doesn't look to have bonded very well with the below surface as we taped the bonnet down for 30 min and when we removed the tape it took a chunk of the silver paint off showing what looks to be the factory white paint underneath.

Kiwi Metal Polishers in Rotorua will dip the whole car taking it back to bare metal and etch it for roughly 2.5K + GST, which i'm thinking isn't too bad.

I'll then fill in any holes / cracks / damage / etc...  and then get it painted. Still not sure what color, but hoping to get this done in the next 4 months or so.

I'm tempted to get a set of these:
1.JPG
10906522_354056838107455_749591654993644
(http://www.maximotorsport.com/)

And get the pins removed from the doors  to give the car this look:
CIMG1796.jpg
 

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From what i currently know, the BE3 ATB diff should fit into the BE4/5 gearbox, it shouldn't be too hard to test tho.  The EW is the evolution of the XU series engine and has some very very very major changes. One of the biggest has to be the oil drains:

EW10:
TD12.jpg
Yes those are the oil drains either side of the liners.

XU10:
005.jpg
You can see the much larger oil drains at the ends of the block vs the XU9 below
XU9:
IMAG0204.jpg
note the ultra small oil drains at either end of the block.
 

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  • 2 months later...

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