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Smoky 2L-TE Turbo Diesel


shavenYak

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Right, we didn't end up doing anything to it, except pouring a bit of injector cleaner into it. Smokes a bit less now, not too bad.

BUT it has developed an overheating issue. My folks have driven it AKL-Palmy and back a couple of times, but each time they have to stop often and refill the water.

The radiator has been taken out and flushed (really cunty to get to on the supercustom), this improved the cooling slightly, but it still boils after driving. We believe it's the water pump, as it's not leaking water out of the engine or into the oil, and the heater only gets warm, not hot, even when the water is boiling.

The other thing is the check engine light comes on every now and then. What is this supposed to mean?

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sounds more cracked head/bhg to me. heater potentially not working is symptom of this IMO as well: bhg bubbles are filling the heater with air.

if you get the engine to temperature (so the thermostat opens) and you have the radiator cap off and hold it at about 2000rpm can you see a 'current' in the coolant? if so: waterpump not the prob.

does the fan lock up when it gets hot? could be caused by that. I'd def. be thinking you have now got a bhg or something though, esp since it's been hot a few times. fix that, and fix the cause of the overheating as well :) or it'll happen again.

in regard to the smoke: bypass the egr valving and clean out the intake manifold. it may be full of crud.

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you'd want to flashcode it. could be trans related if it's got an auto in there, or, could have thrown a code due to overheating? Either way, learn how to flashcode it and it'll tell you what's tripped the light.

Could be injector pump related, a sensor, anything.

basically you need to clear that code. find out what's causing it to overheat/consume coolant, and see if it's fixable/worth fixing etc etc.

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These engines do have a tendency of overheating and cracking heads / cracking heads and overheating, so you'd be lucky if it's overheating for another reason without any head damage.

I think the TEs had a slightly better head design that resists cracking a bit better than the old ones. If the compression test came up clean, chuck some rad flush through it mash in a new waterpump and thermostat and confirm the fan is doing its job / mash on a big fuckoff electric unit.

I'm running many more boost and fuel though my 3L and the water temperature doesn't shift, regardless of how I drive. EGTs get a bit on the crispy side though.

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