Raizer Posted October 30, 2010 Share Posted October 30, 2010 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=81q7-tc6TWM 3/8 line looking quite slow.... lol That 'thing' with the bags looks like it's got a bit of lard to it a well,surely that weight would affect how quickly they air up/down through a given line size. Chevy HHR Panel weighs 1371kg stock (more depending on options) So if I'm not mistaken it is lighter than Alistair's Century? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted October 30, 2010 Share Posted October 30, 2010 But seriously this thread is sweet Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Posted October 30, 2010 Share Posted October 30, 2010 But seriously this thread is sweet Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Camel Posted November 1, 2010 Share Posted November 1, 2010 the setup that was in my old wagon (spencers MS63) was 3/8 valves with 1/2 inch lines. Previously it was in my coupe and was 3/8 lines n valves. I found 3/8 a bit slow to lift the front when approaching speed bumps especially if I wasnt at full pressure. I would definitely go for bigger lines if you can as it makes it alot less frustrating and you can put bleed taps in to control the speed ie. put a bleed tap on the outlet so you get fast lift in the front and slow drop. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Posted March 7, 2011 Share Posted March 7, 2011 Actually quite ken to get this underway. So? I saved and still have some crap to sell. Quite keen on doing this now. I don't plan on doing show shit, just want to be able to drive places without worrying about all the things that full time slam brings which will mean I'll drive it more. Cruise to Auckland will be much better on heaps of air than at 50mm on 550lb springs and ute shocks... Simple fast up, slow down front and rear adj only (keep swaybars) with a non auto leveling controller + preset heights and fine tuning for a load of beezys / trailer. With some decent shocks and maybe better sway bars will it handle ok on a racetrack with semi slicks? Already got a good front coilover setup with camber plates and nuts to position the bag in the perfect spot. I reckon you could do it quite cheap (compared to kits). Just spend on controller, sensors and valves? Can get hookups / trade on all electric stuff like relays and switches + all pneumatic stuff like lines and fittings. Bagsfags life? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rxtoy Posted March 10, 2011 Share Posted March 10, 2011 3/8 will be heaps, You can also run reducers on 1/2 stuff. These are pretty much the 2 sizes catered for, there would be a lot less pissing around sticking to one of these. 1/2 is the "cool" way to go, while you might not care about that it could add value when you're trying to sell and doesn't cost that much more to setup. those bag over strut things are the easy way but you lose heaps of volume so get a much harder ride at the same height. Wishbone fronts are what pretty much all the utes have so no reason it can't be done on cars. Mono leaf is widely considered to be super dodgy. Never actually heard any fail stories but I'd talk to a cert guy before you tried it, I'd be surprised if you could get it legal. I've got a mate with the pressure sensor controller setup in his hilux, he hates it. It takes 3 or 4 hits of the button before it's at the preset height, something to do with the weight still being moving up when the sensor reads it as being at height so it closes the valves then it settles. That's a 3/8 setup too so it's not that quick. He wishes he shelled out the extra for the linear actuators. Or just gauges and a switchbox. Tds are a bit of a rip but they do sell top quality gear, backed by a guarantee. That said you can get the same gear off trademe a lot cheaper. I paid $180 a bag for Slam Specialities SS6's. Which is about as good as it gets. Talk to anyone who knows a bit about air suspension, they'll all say if you do it cheap you'll just end up redoing it. The 6 at the end of SS6 is the size, 6 would be perfect for most small cars, minitrucks usually use them in the front and 7's in the back. I don't know the dimensions but it'd be pretty easy to find out. If you're gonna get truck tanks (which I am) then pay the extra for alloy. That's why they're expensive. Steel rust out from the inside (water traps help) and cause a shit load of problems with blocking valves. Electric compressors have come a long way. Look into Air Zenith OB2's. 100% duty cycle fucking rules! Still never gonna be as quick as an EDC though. Mounting them properly makes a shitload of difference too. Panel steel, rubber mounted or not is gonna vibrate. Get it on the chassis if you can or make up some good solid mounting points. Yorks aren't the be all and end all. There's other options that don't need oilers, 4wd forums are the best place to look. Way too much engine bay real estate for one of those antiques. Now that info comes from years and years of internet/magazine research, a shit load of involvement in the nz minitruck scene, helping build my own truck and helping out on others, and spending way too much time in garages and carparks just checking stuff out and seeing how they work. Cheers Matt 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rxtoy Posted March 10, 2011 Share Posted March 10, 2011 Fuck, missed reading the last page before I posted that. Bit more research involved in setting up for racing, basically as you change the pressure/height you're changing the spring rate too. I'd work out what rate you want, work out what pressure you need for that rate (I'd need to study up the maths but it's not rocket science), then get the bag at that pressure at the ride height you want for racing. Might mean it doesn't lay out (I'd be surprised) or doesn't go that high (more likely but still doubtful) but would make for some pretty sweet easily adjustable race car type handling. Do it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KKtrips Posted March 10, 2011 Author Share Posted March 10, 2011 Thats some good info man - with regards to the bag over strut setup - who sells them in NZ? You say go quality are you talking valves and switchgear or do you mean bags need to be top quality too? (is there even a thing as a shit quality airbag??) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hemi Posted March 10, 2011 Share Posted March 10, 2011 Thats some good info man - with regards to the bag over strut setup - who sells them in NZ?You say go quality are you talking valves and switchgear or do you mean bags need to be top quality too? (is there even a thing as a shit quality airbag??) i have come across some sub standard airbags on trucks and trailers before so i could imagine that they come out in aftermarket low volume form aswell , would NOT trade rubber is made out of old linglongs or somthing just cracks immediatly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Posted March 10, 2011 Share Posted March 10, 2011 Sick. Might just do simple gauges and relays to open / close valves. Have the preset pressures in your head and adjust them accordingly. Should be able to figure out how much weight is on each corner and fill bags accordingly in what sounds like less time than having an electronic thing try figure it out with bag pressures. Pressure sensor setup does sound a bit meh and would save money ditching it. Having everything mechanical would be great. If you did get over it you would be able to easily cnovert to electric control. I hear ya on doing the main components properly. 1uz has aircon already on it so could keep it and oil it. Then could run factory belt and all is well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Posted March 10, 2011 Share Posted March 10, 2011 Im thinking about having the bags on adjustable platforms so I can adjust them down for racing. This would allow more pressure in the bag for a stiffer spring constant and still have the car semi low. That may involve cutting the top of the spring seat out in the rear but that's no biggie. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rxtoy Posted March 10, 2011 Share Posted March 10, 2011 Im thinking about having the bags on adjustable platforms so I can adjust them down for racing.This would allow more pressure in the bag for a stiffer spring constant and still have the car semi low. That may involve cutting the top of the spring seat out in the rear but that's no biggie. That would be the way to go, you could drive it and work out what pressures work best for you, then adjust ride height to suit. Doubling up on adjustability but meh, not like threaded sleeves are that much. I've never looked into bag over strut because none of my vehicles have had struts since I got into air. I'd talk to 4LQQKS or TUF720 off the www.minitruckin.co.nz forums. Both of them bring a bit of gear in, know the right places to deal with, and don't charge shop prices. Organize what you can at this end though, fittings, hose, tanks, wiring etc will be heaps cheaper here in nz (especially trade). I've looked into local valves (SMC from memory, it was ages ago and now im going accuair with linear actuators so never followed it up) that aren't minitruck specific, the only difference I could find was resistance. I can't guarantee they'd work perfectly or be the best option though. You could make up your own switchbox if you wanted, depends on what look you're going for really, and how handy you are at wiring. Cheers Matt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rxtoy Posted March 10, 2011 Share Posted March 10, 2011 A lot of cert guys aren't happy with handbrake light switches isolating the bags anymore either, some require a switch on the oil pressure light. So they won't work unless the engine isn't running. Pretty easy to get round still. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KKtrips Posted March 10, 2011 Author Share Posted March 10, 2011 I'd talk to 4LQQKS or TUF720 off the http://www.minitruckin.co.nz forums. Both of them bring a bit of gear in, know the right places to deal with, and don't charge shop prices. Yeah I would but I joined the forum about a month ago to ask some questions and got banned and my account deleted after 2 days. I hadn't even made any posts and did nothing wrong. I emailed the forum admin and got ignored.. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Posted March 10, 2011 Share Posted March 10, 2011 Sick info. I was thinking more along the lines of setting the car up for cruising semi low and plush as and then having the adjustement to got pretty hard come race day. I will keep that in mind and tread a bit lighter when entering that forum haha. / just PM the guys direct. Cheers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rxtoy Posted March 10, 2011 Share Posted March 10, 2011 There's been heaps of spam issues lately and the main forum admin is tied up with his band so no updates to beat it. New rule is to post in the intro thread after you join, just so they know you're not a bot. That would be my guess as to why you got deleted. Just a guess though. What was your user name and I'll see if I can get it sorted? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stylez Posted March 11, 2011 Share Posted March 11, 2011 Man, I swapped some shitty old civic for an accord with a full bag setup on dead rego once. Sold it for 500 bux cause' I was broke, now I'm pissed off. Should've ripped the bag setup out and scrapped it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Posted March 11, 2011 Share Posted March 11, 2011 Working it through in my head, should be able to do things pretty cheap. Was wondering how to do system isolation for cert so you can't use the bags while driving and thought this may need some sort of expensive controller... Just run bag valve relays through a normally closed relay so when it gets power from ignition it kills everything. Then after cert replace with a simple switch so you can flick it and stop people mucking with the bags. Prob cost about five bucks. Hardest part is finding suitable bags. Spence, do you reckon if I use the 1uz aircon pump I could get away with a smaller air tank? Like one hidden in the spare wheel well? Or fabricate one to take up the whole wheel well. 150 tonne press at work can push 12mm steel plate round no worries so with ali would work fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rxtoy Posted March 11, 2011 Share Posted March 11, 2011 A small tank means there's less volume to fill the bags, it might mean you need to wait for the tank to refill a couple times (which would get quicker with the EDC) to go from on the ground to ride height (as an extreme example). That said a full size wheel well tank would be pretty big. I've seen one before on a Honda airbag setup auction so they're probably available to buy new from somewhere Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaMpylobacter Posted March 11, 2011 Share Posted March 11, 2011 just get one made at roadrunner/jacksons/fruehauf or simila, simon. I'm sure your dad would have hookups through these places. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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