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Mig Welders


shavenYak

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mine is a ryobi...

we had a lincoln at work,it was a 180, fuck did we weld some shit with that..

at the exhaust shop we had a 250ish welder,was bloody overkill, but was good when we had to do chassis work.

at my current work the boss has a invertor welder, tbh i hate using it, prefer my little mig..

oh btw its a gasless mig...lol

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thought the power settings might be on this:

146399916_full.jpg

but I don't know how to decipher it..

Could be mistaken, but that has 3 levels there. 140a @ 10% duty cycle, 75a @ 35% d/c and 57a @ 60% d/c

It'll be fine for panel steel, but it'll struggle if youwant to weld lots of thick steel.

Thats the duty cycle ie the percent of continious use it can take before it thermal overloads and stops working untill it cools down.

It will be an ok machine for light work and panel jobs.

The inner cable is like the outer of an acelerator cable that carries the wire from the roll to the tip.

Its cheap and easy to replace.

I've had a MIG for ages.

Heres my 2 cents about what to look for.

Do use Argo shield, it costs more but it works much better. I find Co2 makes the weld to cold and spattery.

Look for a welder with a solenoid valve for the shield gas. Smaller ones have a manual valve and aren't as nice to use.

I prefer .8mm wire, it doesn't bunch in the feed roller as easily and it makes a nice neet weld.

Look for a machine that is 160 to 220 amp single phase. You can get larger single phase machines but they are pretty industrial. I have a 170 a and it does everything I want it to. It would be nice to have a bit more HP though.

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I got one of these for ~1k from BOC. http://www.bocworldofwelding.com.au/ait ... ile_id/33/

Couple of them floating around in peoples garages on here / toyspeed. Might not be what you're after due to price though. I figured i'd only buy one.... so why not buy a decent one as i've seen so many people struggling to weld with shit units its just not worth the hassle to save a few $$$. Came with rollers and welding tips for most wire sizes, so caters for most shit you can throw at it. 60% duty at 180A to me says its a pretty solid unit. Compare that to cheap units.

Can adjust (infinite, not 6 settings BS) Voltage, Current and wire speed. All independently which is handy when you're learning as its easy to use trial and error to see how each affects the weld result. I've only done small welding upto 3mm or so, but it handles ~0.5mm metal which is what I wanted for rust repairs etc.

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Slightly related to this, can someone please inform me the settings you would use to weld .5~1.0mm/panel steel? I've been meaning to find out for curiosities sake but just haven't got round to it, I'm sure many of you will know. Too hot will blow holes in the steel I imagine?

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Slightly related to this, can someone please inform me the settings you would use to weld .5~1.0mm/panel steel? I've been meaning to find out for curiosities sake but just haven't got round to it, I'm sure many of you will know. Too hot will blow holes in the steel I imagine?

there is a big difference between 0.5mm and 1.0mm and 1.5mm

There are different ways you can do it successfully, you can weld at higher amps but just do very short bursts (pretty much like a lot of tack welds) or you can use a lower setting and do longer bursts. either way though with panel steel you would will usually use a burst method to avoid putting too much heat in and A) burning through, or B) causing excessive warpage.

You can change wire size, which will alter what settings you need to use. Then technique effects it too, how close you go with the torch and how fast you move it, how much gas etc. basically there are a bunch of variables and it takes practice and experience to work out what works in what application/situation for your particular welding machine.

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Settings for thin metal will vary welder to welder / wire size. I just always start with a bit of scrap and adjust the settings from there. Will also depend on the type of weld you're doing as to how much heat you'll want in the metal. I could tell you the settings I used, but they only apply to my welder. However, for thin stuff, you'll want 30-50A with low wire speed, that's with 0.6mm wire, which is easiest for thin stuff.

Thin metal I find easier to do in short bursts. Doing long welds is doable, but with the extra heat I avoid it. Plus your power settings and speed you move the torch have to be spot on. Short bursts is much less forgiving. I did my ae111 boot spoiler holes.... I swear its made of paper thin metal, was a pain.

That UK site is where I frequent, you-tube CAN be helpful, but so many bad techniques on there you have to be careful what you take onboard :P Check out the method they have in the video section on the site for welding thin metal, works a treat.

http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/thin-metal.htm

I basically read everything I could from that site, watched some you-tube videos, then melted some metal :P Check previous threads where people have asked for advice on what's wrong with their welding.... means that if it happens to you, you know why and can improve a lot faster since you know why its happening.

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I have the older version of this:

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Business-farmi ... 791911.htm

I would not reccomend it as it tends to overheat/trip out if you do a decent length weld on the high settings. Also I only use co2 which is a bit rubbish for thicker stuff but is ok for the bit of panel steel/exhaust work i normally do.

I definately would not undertake a serious project with it like building a trailer...

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Yeah going by that uk forum, co2 isn't as stable as argoshield, especially at low amps. Technique will be the winner on the day as both options will work, but argo is probably easier and gives a better result. Using co2 on half mil sheet is a bit of a bitch, but its doable if that's all ya have :oops:

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Specifically though, I was referring to the post above mine where mjstar talks about C02 being easier to weld panel steel. I would have thought this was the opposite

Just my experience with my setup, could be more to do with the welder than the gas etc.. who knows.

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  • 3 weeks later...

I can highly recommend Ron Covell's MIG welding video. Magoos in Masterton sell them on Trade Me. $80 but you won't waste time and money trying stuff that just won't work. Or even better, do an evening class. I've done the MIG/TIG one at Weltec twice and it's $350 well spent. You also learn arc, gas, brazing etc.

I'd also caution trying to weld thick stuff with a low powered welder. I've tried 5mm with my 160A welder (Telwin), and a 150A Lincoln and it is not safe. The weld might look okay, but with a 100A welder you won't get penetration which is what holds it together. You really do need to consider the consequences if it fails, i.e. your arse on the line.

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