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Individual Throttle Body tech


EURON8

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Got some questions and this thread could hang around as useful info for people using them.

Now heres what i got

1ggeu

6 ITBs

Questions:

I have a set of 4 ITBs plus 2 extra ones. One of the extra ones is the TPS one. So it wont sit as close to the next to it as the rest. Does this matter or should i try source another one without TPS bit.

Fuck it photo makes sense hopefully.

ITBs.jpg

The standard 20V manifold they came on has a spot for the injectors, but obviously wont be using this manifold, The 1ggeu has injectors seperate to intake manifold so should i make the runners as short as possible? In saying that the factory intake is quite long?

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you need 2 middle ones for the extras.

1g injectors in head? doesnt matter about length. but closer the throttles to the head is said give better throttle response. over all length to end of trumpet, probably best around stock, different lengths will move the power around a bit.

edit: pretty sure i have some throttles hanging about. should have the 2 middle ones. can look if you want.

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^^ yip injectors into the head, my 1g is running an old link plus with no TPS and it seems to go ok. The ITB's could lead to a bit of fiddle factor getting a good vacuum source for a map sensor? should sound pretty sweet if you can make it all come together..

Just had a thought, are you going to run the TVIS plate?

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It would pay (IMO) to get the TPS going if you can, as your vacuum will be horrible with short runners at part throttle, thereby your MAP sensor will be all over the place.

Agreed. MAP signal with short runners and open throttles is hard to get. Plenum or airbox would probably sort it out somewhat.

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Was never going to get rid of TPS.

All this computer jazz is quite new to new so any info people have gained doing this sorta thing would be great.

Looking at u brad.

Not looking for high performance obviously, just want it to be a nice reliable runner that i can have a bit of fun in once the LSD is in.

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i run mine on tps only, with the link. have messed around trying to run it on map and using 4d maps. (tps, map vs rpm) but seem to be able to get the same result, with tps vs rpm. very simple setup and easyer to tune.

i forgot to look for that throttle but 99% sure i have one. its yours for $20, to cover sending it and a few pies

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Just out of interest, where are you guy's taking your manifold pressure from?

I've noticed that in the stock setup, the butterflies close over the holes, pretty much blocking them off when you're not stepping on the gas.

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I have small tubes welded into every intake runner. From there they ran into 2 t-piece connectors then to a "vacuum accumulator" to try and "normalise" the signal somewhat. I have since seen varying opinions on whether this is an ideal method to achieve a consistent vacuum signal and it seems that people often try different things.

I hadn't realised tps vs rpm tuning was so common though, so to save so much hassle it seems it is perfectly fine to just forget the MAP sensor and just go with TPS alone.

The only thing I now use those little tubes for is to give the engine a slight vacuum leak for idle-up, rather than cracking the throttles open a little bit. Works really well.

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Yeah I've gone to the hassle of recreating the idle-bypass with mine so the ECU can have proper control over warm-up idle etc. Each runner has a pneumatic fitting in it that is connected back to an air "bus", which is in turn connected to an ISCV.

I was planning on using the little tubes that each TB has for vacuum, but then noticed the thing with the butterfly closing over them when the throttle is closed.. Current plan is to take the pressure from the idle-bypass circuit, in order to get a vac signal at idle, but also tee in the lines from each TB, as once you step on the gas these leetle holes will open up. I was going to plumb-in the extra tubes from TB's #1 and #4 also...

I figure the more vac sources the better...?

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for cold idle up, i use the stock dashpot thing on the 20v throttles. connected to an old tvis solenoid. (3way) have it setup so it cracks the throttle open, when under 60 degrees. then apply vacuum to it at normal op temp, so it pulls back and sits on the normal throttle stop.

4d map was good for when i had the supercharger on it. all the map part of the tune did was add fuel when it was on boost, rest still ran on tps

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So how does a blacktop 20V work well with MAP sensor, if it's difficult to get any sort of accurate signal from?

How/where/why do they source the MAP signal, I'm guessing they've got all of the runners linked together.

If they were linked together they wouldn't be ITB - as in INDEPENDENT throttle bodies.. :D

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