Prepping for paint?

[Mr dori]

The car is covered in Emamel paint from previous jobs, i figure the best thing to do is Stip all of this off,

Anyone know of a real strong industrial paint stripper? Also after it is metal what process do i take? i have a rough idea but any thoughts would be great.

paint wise, im heading towards a 2k with clear over top, base coat seems very exp?

Also im sick of being jibbed at local paint supplier for a "trade" discount which i know is fuk all like 10 % off, how can i suss a better rate?

[KKtrips]

Tergostrip - you can buy it 5 litre from most automotive painting supplies.

Wear overalls and dishwashing gloves then tape the dishwashing gloves to your overalls

As I found out last week - do small areas at a time like A3 sized areas otherwise its just a horrible mess when the paintstripper dries..

To identify it in the shop look for the big container on the left at the back..

I don't know the correct process but I stripped back, then sanded back the remainder.

Being enamel you want to get off as much as possible - then you will need to cough up for a proper sealer cos any enamel left over will flare up with every type of paint..

Talk to your paint guy about the proper sealer to use and then I guess go as per normal from there.

[Testament]

is there any way to tell if old panel is enamel or whatever type? I have no idea what is on the 131. had baremetalled parts of it as you have seen but wasn't planning on doing the whole thing to bare metal if i didnt have to.

[cute wee gem]

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motor ... 312889.htm

Also does 3 liters for cheaper. I used this stuff on my Gem with a decent 2k clear coat which is the expensive part but can find good deals on TM

Example of said paint

[Mr dori]

shit that looks pretty sweet man, could look into that

[Coldspark]

sand it all off (best as you can really and then just cover the shit out of it in primer)

if you went back to bare metal, etch primer then primer

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/Car-parts-accessories/Paint/auction-313312889.htm

Also does 3 liters for cheaper. I used this stuff on my Gem with a decent 2k clear coat which is the expensive part but can find good deals on TM

What..? lacquer.... 2k

first off lacquer is cheap and wont last long and putting 2k clear over it will make it last a little bit longer...but still not that long

[brikyard]

if you do go the tergo route few tips for ya....

Invest in a cheapo roll of glad wrap - do a panel at a time, paint on the stripper quickly then layer glad wrap over the panel - to sort of keep the vapours from escaping.

Give the tergo a good 10 minutes to work, grab a spartula and simply scrape the residue off.

Problem areas or areas that havent really stripped may mean waxes/poliishes playing with the tergo so paint on a second coat of stripper and agitate with an old hand wire brush, then cover with glad wrap.

As said, cover up well and make sure you use it in a well ventilated area.

Make sure you wash off and dry all areas used with the stripper, especially before

attacking tight areas with a rotary wire brush on the drill and spraying residue all

over the old mans commy sitting in the shed too......

[von Mako]

first off lacquer is cheap and wont last long and putting 2k clear over it will make it last a little bit longer...but still not that long

Bollocks. I know an old rodder who has just repainted his coupe to get rid of the stone chips.

It was painted 18 years ago in Dulon, and besides the stonechips, it still looked shit hot.

If the job is done properly and, just as importantly, looked after properly, then there's no reason lacquer won't go the distance.

Also, if you havn't got a proper paint booth/oven AND the proper respitory gear, then don't bother with 2k IMO

[LS 2 THE DEEE]

Like most things you get what you pay for in regards to paint

Do you want to keep the car? if so I suggest get good materials and do it right the first time and you wont have to touch it for years to come.

If you want to go metallic/pearl you 'll have to use basecoat/clearcoat.......i've used Spies Hecker (good coverage, colour matching etc but pricey) PPG....pricey and average coverage. And Metalux which is reasonable price with good coverage.

If your going basecoat/clearcoat the basecoat quality isnt hugely important in terms of spending heaps but you'll want to get a decent clear with UV protection......better clears have better flow out and vertical hold etc and more importantly if your not painting in a booth its much easier to cut and polish the dust and wont have a memory with the scratches....makes life easier

If your going a solid colour then 2k it up......its essentially just coloured clearcoat and job should be done in 2ish coats depending on colour as opposed to multiple coats of basecoat and either having another gun or cleaning your gun out to apply clear

I was a distributor for a couple years and still have some contacts......if you know what you want I could probably get it at a decent rate

[bubblegoose]

back to the original post, Tergo strip, as said its the shiznitz also available in 20L drums which if you doing a whole car you will need.

attack the paint with some 100 ish grit paper just roughly to help the tergo do its job

layer that stz on thick with a big ass brush and cover in plastic film

about 10-15 mins later the paint will fall off(with the help of plastic scraper) and the rest can be prepared for primer with 250 grit

as your doing a whole car and if you care about it id probably roll 2k epoxy primer, its hard and stick extremely well and can have bog repairs in areas that require without stripping that area back to metal again

base coats are expensive, i just brought 500ml to paint my wheels and it cost me $70 at trade

the 2k clear i already had lying around, base and clear is always the best but if your going for a solid colour/cheap a 2k high solids paint will be as durable and will come close in terms of shine

[bubblegoose]

P.S. you cant 'spray' 2k paints in a residential area

just fyi

[shizzl]

P.S. you cant 'spray' 2k paints in a residential area

just fyi

you can if you can get away with it

ive used both systems laquer and 2k..

have always found the laquer easier to lay down for some reason..

however white 2k is the shiz

ive got some black 2k in the shed that i need to do something with..

may end up selling it though....

[Testament]

at what point should you put seam sealer on? before primer? after primer before paint? after paint?

[bubblegoose]

P.S. you cant 'spray' 2k paints in a residential area

just fyi

you can if you can get away with it

ive used both systems laquer and 2k..

have always found the laquer easier to lay down for some reason..

however white 2k is the shiz

ive got some black 2k in the shed that i need to do something with..

may end up selling it though....

i ment legally, not many people will know the difference in the small anyway..

lacquer is easier to lay down as it contains less solids (the paint is 'lighter') but 2k will always win

at what point should you put seam sealer on? before primer? after primer before paint? after paint?

after the primer is cured and blocked and before paint, you can chuck some more primer over for good measure if you want, but make sure seam sealer has dried fully or it will shrink under the paint/my engine bay stz