Valiant Posted August 27, 2010 Share Posted August 27, 2010 Hi everyone. Heres a few photos of one of my Vals. Nothing to special, mods to date.... 265, HE49 cam 465 cfm Holley on a L O N G manifold. Long tube Headders, 2 1/4" pipe. Factory electronic ignition. W50 box Borg Warner diff with VL 3.45 gears and LSD. Hype 15"superlites. Discuss https://oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/28091-valiants-valiant/ 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Valiant Posted September 1, 2010 Author Share Posted September 1, 2010 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Valiant Posted November 3, 2011 Author Share Posted November 3, 2011 I've converted my Valiant to run a dedicated LPG fuel system. The whole Petrol system is gone. Its been an ongoing mission but today it fnaly paid off. The car is converted, Dyno tuned, has an LPG warrant, instlation cert, new Testing Station WOF, and rego. To drive it's better in every way, smoother, idles better, easy to start and goes just as well as before. Also $1.33/L at the pumps. It's early days yet but kays per litre seems better than petrol too. When I get a Rock Gas card $ per litre will drop again too. So yeah, so pleased with it. Photos. LPG filler is where the petrol filler was. Tank in the boot, lost some boot space, not worried. Impco L model convertor Impco 300a gas carb mounted on a Holley throttle plate. It works like a very large Stromberg. Done. viewtopic.php?f=18&t=23905&p=557639 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Valiant Posted August 24, 2014 Author Popular Post Share Posted August 24, 2014 3 years no update. I last drove this one year ago, to Hanmer knowing it had a leaking gasket. I pulled the head off the next weekend, one thing lead to another and a year went by. So, my head gasket had been leaking for some time and made a mess of the head and one bore. The block had been bored to +.090 to 4.000 inch and fitted with 351c stock sized pistons. I should probably have had it honed but hindsight is a wonderful thing. My E49 cam was worn out, valve springs soft and lifters rooted. New motor time. Blah blah 10.25 to one compression, new cam, sump baffle, oil pump brace etc etc. Put it all back together, oil pump air locked, luckily it was being turned over on the key with the plugs out. I still had to pull the push rods out again out of worry about the cam. Sorted that out more trials and tribulations ensued, nothing that some line towing, pulling the gearbox out a couple of times, and buying a new ignition system couldn't solve. It all came together today for the first decent drive in a year, I was very pleased. 245 head fitted with larger 265 valves. Decked block to push the compression up. Now the pistons come proud of the block at T.D.C. ARP Head stud kit and rod bolts. With an oil pump brace. New custom length pushrods, all the metal off the head and block meant my stock pushrods were too long. Sump baffle. All together and nearly all sorted. //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?showtopic=28091 12 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Valiant Posted March 24, 2019 Author Popular Post Share Posted March 24, 2019 Wow. 5 years later and what a ball ache that turned out to be. It turns out that the closest engine reconditioned isn't always best choice.There were numerous issues with the above engine which only became apparent over time. The most obvious issue was that it wouldn't rev past 4900rpm. After much mucking around, buying parts, getting shagged around by Australian parts suppliers, booking dyno time, and sitting in workshops around Christchurch I discovered that my oil pump drive gear was slipping on its shaft as the load came on, causing a drop in oil pressure, not enough to bring the oil light on and too briefly to make the gauge drop This caused the lifters to bleed down and stop the engine until the gear gripped on the shaft and things went OK again. So the upshot of all this? A re, rebuilt engine, this is where the lid came off the tin of worms. Anyway. got it going all seems OK. After all the wasted time and money, as well as a couple of other factors this thing has been parked up since Hanmer last year. I've just got it back from 6 months to life to be served in a workshop in rural Canterbury. I haven't been able to decide what to do with it or the AP5, I thought about selling them but soon changed my mind, I've thought about parking them up and ignoring them for a decade or two. Neither option made me happy. Nats 2019 made me realize how much I miss having one or both of them running so now I'm back and have the VG home. It's time to make The VG awesome to again! I have a list of things to do. As you can see, some of those things are already done! I gave it a good wash and polish, now it looks much better. I think I need to add "Replace boot rubber" to the list. 22 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Valiant Posted December 1, 2019 Author Popular Post Share Posted December 1, 2019 Wow, what a mess this thread is. Anyway. I washed this the other day so it seemed like a good time for an update. Things I have done. . . Replaced the safety valve in the fuel tank, inadvertently inhaled quite a bit of LPG and felt quite dizzy for a few minutes. Would not trade again. The new safety valve did solve the cutting out issue so that was nice. Fitted this CB Performance black box timing control unit. But it turned out to be a bit of a dick and wouldn't work as I hoped so out it came, in went a stock distributor to get it going. This Link G3 has been purchased and will be wired over Christmas with a view to getting it tuned early next year. Other things I have done include fitting a set of LN??? Hilux 4 piston calipers to the front of the Valiant. As mentioned on OS previously they take the same pads as R32 GTR skyline but skyline pads were $400 trade vs good Bendix pads at $40. Regardless of pad choice they fitted nicely with minor modification, clear my 14 inch steels, I even managed to reuse my VG brake hoses, bled up nicely, and have made a great improvement to the cars braking. I did a few other things , ordered a new boot rubber and a couple of rubber ends to hold the sun visor up, re routed the exhaust a little as it was banging on the drive shaft loop (cert guys wrecking the hobby) etc etc. Nothing exciting. Drove to Hanmer this September via Kaikoura and the inland scenic route, back to Christchurch and all over the Port Hills. Did a couple of circular engine load tests, fun was had by all. looking forward to getting the tuning sorted so I can cut the bottoms off the rear quarters and attend to the rust there and get the dented front guards sorted. I've only had the car 15 years so no rush there. Obligatory washed car photo. Happy days 27 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Valiant Posted March 27, 2020 Author Popular Post Share Posted March 27, 2020 Well well, Link in and working, took more than I thought it would, Couldn't get a spark at cranking speed, mucked around and mucked around. Swapped pick up with a Mazda/Toyota unit, brought a new battery the old one was cooked anyway still no luck. Took the whole thing back out and took it to the tuning place. LOL, G3 was looking for a different signal, changed the parameter and away we went. All back in now and working well. Japanese pick up worked out well, the advance plate is gone all together now, which simplified things alot. Also I modified this distributor to take a plastic Slant Six distributor gear. They are about $1.50 off ebay, a hemi 6 one is almost impossible to get, bronze ones are available but they wear out quickly and make the timing scatter. I have a Link and Ignitor attached to my heater box. Also added some H4 headlights, and a big relay. Now I can see in the dark! Replaced the finger chopping fan with an electric one, got all hi tech with a thermo switch even. Pics of hilux calipers fitted. This is on the AP5 but same diff. Easy to do and well worth the effort. Roller Rocker flex because I reset my tappets with a view to get this dynoed once the world goes back to normal. 37 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Valiant Posted June 23, 2020 Author Popular Post Share Posted June 23, 2020 Woo hoo. Got this going over lock down. Put a new set of Eagle HT leads on as the old ones were tracking. Dropped the car off at the dyno shop on Sunday night, the drive there was a bit fraught. The car backfired into the intake and shot the caps off a couple of vacuum ports, I pulled the overflow hose off the radiator and plugged the hose tails with it on the side of the road, called it good and carried on. Was worried all yesterday. But. Good news. All went well! Gary adjusted things to 231.8 hp at about 4700 rpm and 274 ft lbs at 4700 rpm, Has max torque from about 3000 to 4700. It's 30 hp more than previous. The G3 works awesomely. Apparently it has ended up with a very unusual advance curve feels like it works well though, very well. Apparently there is about %20 driveline loss with a dyno like this so my 231 hp eguates to about 275 flywheel hp, on par with an E48 Charger! but with a 4/1bbl carb and sausage cooking gas! Anyway heres some pics of a couple of graphs. Apparently the hub dyno wouldn't fit into my low wheel arches with out the body being jacked up which caused the dyno to rattle a bit. I'm told thats why the line is a bit wobbly. Wobbly lines or not, it goes really really well now. Smooth, powerful, and lots of torque. Super pleased. The yellow line is the shit original "rebuilt motor" Red is the re rebuilt motor and Link G3 looking after timing. 30 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Valiant Posted November 15, 2020 Author Popular Post Share Posted November 15, 2020 Low level stuff here but worthy of sharing? The car is still going great, I have taken the computer back a couple of times as the car was prone to kicking back on cold starts and to raise the rev limit slightly. No problems though and no charge so A++ to PAD Racing again. I've been driving the car quite a lot since the last update and noticed that the steering was getting nastier and nastier. The front wheels were squealing on roundabouts etc. I jacked it up and found that the front lower arm, inner bushes have died on both sides, disappointing really, they were only 15 years old! While it's up in the air I have a couple of other things to do, the rear brakes are iffy, I think the wheel cylinders are getting a bit tight, I'll sort that out. The LPG tank is a bit on the small side (about 57l I think) which gives me range anxiety, I also had to mount it back to front when I fitted it which means I can't see the manual level gauge. I have a much larger 80l tank that I will fit to the boot while I'm working on the car. I have a couple of other odds and ends to do, I'll keep you posted. 21 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Valiant Posted November 22, 2020 Author Popular Post Share Posted November 22, 2020 I pulled the lower arms out of this today and what a crumbly mess I found. Luckily last time I had it in bits I cleaned all the threads and greased the torsion bar hexes so it came to bits nicely today. after a little grinding and a nudge in the press, good as new, Thanks to Valiant Precision Driving Team captain @cletus for supplying some new rubber bushes. The old bus should regain its razor sharp handling characteristics. 16 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Valiant Posted December 29, 2020 Author Popular Post Share Posted December 29, 2020 Bushes replaced and the Valiant drives nicely again. One of my boys finished year 8 schooling, they have a formal and parents etc are invited to drop their kids off at in front of the school hall pre formal. The valiant beached quite loudly as I was turning onto the field which my son thought was fantastic. Good boy! He was very keen on some school field paddock work. I exercised the utmost restraint and no circles were done. Here's a pic of some previous grass silliness. I put the Superlites on for the school run. Then decided I didn't like them and took them off the next day. I'd quite like a set of these modernized Cheviot Quattro's but the budget won't stretch that far at the moment. anyway that's enough sharnes. I have done some productive stuff too. I got my big fuel tank re tested, blasted and painted. It's slightly larger in diameter and considerably longer than the old one. My calculations suggest it will hold about 20 Liters more fuel than previous which equates to about %30 more. Luckily I managed to fit it into the old tank straps which was a bonus and saved much fucking about. Old. New. I Need to sort out some new ducting as the tank has is designed for 60mm as opposed to 2 inch as before and I'll be ready to run. This tank has a little magnetic gauge sender unit that is miles different resistances to what the factory sender had. It looks fairly simple and I'd like to see about getting it changed so I can use my factory gauge. Has any one in ChCh delt with E Parrot and Sons since it has changed hands? Are Robinson instruments still around? Suggestions please. 21 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Valiant Posted August 29, 2021 Author Popular Post Share Posted August 29, 2021 Owning this car is great. It never uses any fuel because its in my garage on stands all its life. I think I filled its tank twice since the last update. The gearbox pilot bush started to chatter so the box has been out and in. Steering wheel frame broke so that's been off for repair. Engine revs now like it should so I tend to rev it more necessitating construction of a crank case breather. I have no photos of these fixes but I assure you that they have are completed. Anyway. This has been a bit battered body wise the entire time I've owned it. When I got it in +/- 2005 it had been a daily driver, caravan tower, take rubbish to the tip car. It had always been garaged but old Johnny had been struggling to steer it and took out the letter box and gate post in the time not long before I brought it off him. Its always been a little bit rusty in the bottoms of the front guards and the bottoms of the rear quarters, I've always intended to fix this stuff, get the battle scars out of the front guards, fix the holes from a long broken rear view mirror etc. now with lockdown giving me time to complete a number of more pressing projects I've taken the plunge and got stuck into this. I have some repair sections for the rear quarters that I made at tech about 6 months after I got the car, cant rush into things. Crusty quarters. Ill just put a patch in the bottom of the guard, that's all I'll have to do. Nope, end of the sill is rotten and the frame. Pretty happy with progress so far. I've rust killed everything, and blown 50 years worth of detritus out of the sill. Once the rust killer is dry I'll PA10 it all then weld the piece in place. Then it will be time to start on the guard frame and bottom, 26 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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