Jase Posted April 28, 2010 Share Posted April 28, 2010 having leaves reset , eyes flipped to lower it more, load spring removed or kept? not into inside out springs! possibly still run a block any thoughts further ideas done the flipped load ontop buzz but not suitable for a cert Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ogre Posted April 28, 2010 Share Posted April 28, 2010 some sorta tech articles about leaf design etc would be mint, i been trying to find out the same sorta stuff but cant find anything descent to read up about it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brock-Lee Posted April 28, 2010 Share Posted April 28, 2010 I had sweet yarn to spring people a while back. They dont recommend going to reverse eye because the forces will straighten the eye out over time/somthing along those lines. He said its sweet to go to negative camber in the spring so it becomes inverted. Best to yarn to cert dude about it though because both guys I talked to said 1" negative camber static was too much. /blah blah Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Unclejake Posted April 28, 2010 Share Posted April 28, 2010 If you wish to change spring rates they by all means remove the 'load' leaf but that will soften the arrangement a bit. While you are at it you may wish to consider adding a half leaf from the axle housing toward the front eye to assist in controlling axle hop/tramp on acceleration. Lowering blocks that place the diff nose a little lower than he horizontal will also assist in reducing axle tramp. Hotchkiss suspension (leaf springs on a live rear axle) is good shit. Brock-Lee, by negative camber do you mean the spring is concave from below? getting negative camber on the road wheels can be done with a Hotchkiss but it has drawbacks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hemi Posted April 28, 2010 Share Posted April 28, 2010 Brock-Lee, by negative camber do you mean the spring is concave from below? getting negative camber on the road wheels can be done with a Hotchkiss but it has drawbacks jesus christ that would be just horrible to even look at . l200 had one leaf in it .. all load shit was done with shocks. was mean for skids ./ tore the center of the clutch out Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brock-Lee Posted April 28, 2010 Share Posted April 28, 2010 Nah I was referring to the arch in the spring. Both spring makers I talked to and both cert guys I talked to said that an inverted spring had a negative camber. Hah, I just assumed it was commonly referred to as this Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hemi Posted April 28, 2010 Share Posted April 28, 2010 Nah I was referring to the arch in the spring. Both spring makers I talked to and both cert guys I talked to said that an inverted spring had a negative camber. Hah, I just assumed it was commonly referred to as this this confuses me. loophole in the universe?? i love it if inverted spring = 1deg neg camber per 25mm siad spring was inverted Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brock-Lee Posted April 28, 2010 Share Posted April 28, 2010 Top is stock, bottom is what I referred to as having ' negative camber', they just keep resetting it lower so it becomes inverted. This was recommended over reversing the eye God im shit at explaining /hijack Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hemi Posted April 28, 2010 Share Posted April 28, 2010 that looks so wrong aye . so sure all the springs would try to seperate instead of taking load get 2 awesomely thick springs / solid mount that shit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jase Posted April 29, 2010 Author Share Posted April 29, 2010 nah that looks queer to me man, spring with the eyes have a pack of leaves below it which under compression spread out as they are bumped upwards under load, an inverse spring would leave no where for the pack to spread and they would bind. ie not good Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cheater_5 Posted April 29, 2010 Share Posted April 29, 2010 Snells springs guy talked me out of reversed eyed leafs for reason dave said/i told dave. Argued in favour of reverse arch and gave examples of factory cars with reverse arched leafs. If you think of them as a flat piece of spring steal, it shouldn't matter what way they arch. Although he did mention different toe characteristics under compression due to the shackles moving inwards rather that outwards. He noted it shouldn't be any problem however. My springs sit with a reversed arch with load on them and flat when not loaded. Will be stiffening further and reverse arching them more for lower in future. I have always wanted a very long, flat panard rod because the factory leaf setup feels like it walks around a lot. Even when it didn't have blocks (which suck too). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drftnmaz Posted April 29, 2010 Share Posted April 29, 2010 yea its just spring steel, it doesn't mind which way you make it go, its just always trying to find its way back to its set state Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RUNAMUCK Posted April 30, 2010 Share Posted April 30, 2010 flat springs=traction fail. I used to have flat leaves in my 1200, and I couldn't put any power to the ground. It was hopeless. fitted stock leaves, and better traction ensued. When I get around to it, I'm gonna roll reversed eyes. My car weighs so fuck all, and I drive it so fuck all that by the time the eyes unwind themselves, I'll be too old to drive anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jase Posted April 30, 2010 Author Share Posted April 30, 2010 definitely concur with runamuck, og leaves will be retained for any possible run at the strip, the toe character of the diff is quite important under bump with conventional springs the diff moves backwards, unconventional will move forwards (possibly bind uj's) under cornering the outside spring in a conventional set up pulls the diff back on the outside and forward on the inside, tightening the turning circle and promoting a tighter line, unconventional will be the oposite and will promote a crab around the corner with the inside spring flattening and pushing the inside rear wheel backwards and the outside wheel forwards. possibly if you want to run a clean line or drive daily you would run a conventional setup, if you want to promote oversteer you would run unconventional or just run enough power and conventional and have the best of both worlds Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jase Posted May 4, 2010 Author Share Posted May 4, 2010 Uploaded with ImageShack.us reset leaves with all the goodness of fullfat milk, left the load springs for towing a trailer, just got to cut some blocks out of 1.5" steel now and bore holes for the u bolts Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drftnmaz Posted May 5, 2010 Share Posted May 5, 2010 arn't your overload's upside down? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jase Posted May 5, 2010 Author Share Posted May 5, 2010 nah mate thats how an overload spring is meant to be, it only comes into effect when the load flattens the pack down onto it leaving a softer spring for day to day use, otherwise if it were up the other way it would hugely increase the whole packs stiffness due to the overload coming into contact with the pack more easily, they are curved down slightly so that they don't bind when either cornering or loaded mass is relieved Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Unclejake Posted May 5, 2010 Share Posted May 5, 2010 Yikes. How heavy/what is your car? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jase Posted May 5, 2010 Author Share Posted May 5, 2010 72 b1600 unkie uj, Commodore v6 powered auto slug, For towing car trailer and carting dirtbikes around. estimated completion : one day Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cheater_5 Posted May 5, 2010 Share Posted May 5, 2010 FUCK those are some leafs man here's some conversation topics for such a thread titled "leaf spring tech" Has anyone here had any experience with a coilover/coil spring setup in a originally leafsprung car, using a single leaf as lateral stability? In stead of using a panard rod/watts etc and a 4 link is what I mean. I have seen quite a few b110s/b310s in japan running a coilover shock and spring to the shock mount on the u-bolt plate under the leaf with no added arms. Logic would tell me that the lateral stability of the factory leafs where never that great and adding atleast a panard/watts etc would help greatly. However I am interested in hearing others experience with the setup. converse... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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