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Leaf spring tech


Jase

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I had sweet yarn to spring people a while back. They dont recommend going to reverse eye because the forces will straighten the eye out over time/somthing along those lines. He said its sweet to go to negative camber in the spring so it becomes inverted. Best to yarn to cert dude about it though because both guys I talked to said 1" negative camber static was too much.

/blah blah

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If you wish to change spring rates they by all means remove the 'load' leaf but that will soften the arrangement a bit.

While you are at it you may wish to consider adding a half leaf from the axle housing toward the front eye to assist in controlling axle hop/tramp on acceleration. Lowering blocks that place the diff nose a little lower than he horizontal will also assist in reducing axle tramp.

Hotchkiss suspension (leaf springs on a live rear axle) is good shit.

Brock-Lee, by negative camber do you mean the spring is concave from below? getting negative camber on the road wheels can be done with a Hotchkiss but it has drawbacks

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Brock-Lee, by negative camber do you mean the spring is concave from below? getting negative camber on the road wheels can be done with a Hotchkiss but it has drawbacks

jesus christ that would be just horrible to even look at .

l200 had one leaf in it .. all load shit was done with shocks.

was mean for skids ./ tore the center of the clutch out

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Nah I was referring to the arch in the spring. Both spring makers I talked to and both cert guys I talked to said that an inverted spring had a negative camber. Hah, I just assumed it was commonly referred to as this

this confuses me. loophole in the universe??

i love it if inverted spring = 1deg neg camber per 25mm siad spring was inverted

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nah that looks queer to me man,

spring with the eyes have a pack of leaves below it which

under compression spread out as they are bumped upwards under load,

an inverse spring would leave no where for the pack to spread and they would bind.

ie not good

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Snells springs guy talked me out of reversed eyed leafs for reason dave said/i told dave. Argued in favour of reverse arch and gave examples of factory cars with reverse arched leafs. If you think of them as a flat piece of spring steal, it shouldn't matter what way they arch. Although he did mention different toe characteristics under compression due to the shackles moving inwards rather that outwards. He noted it shouldn't be any problem however.

My springs sit with a reversed arch with load on them and flat when not loaded. Will be stiffening further and reverse arching them more for lower in future. I have always wanted a very long, flat panard rod because the factory leaf setup feels like it walks around a lot. Even when it didn't have blocks (which suck too).

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flat springs=traction fail.

I used to have flat leaves in my 1200, and I couldn't put any power to the ground. It was hopeless. fitted stock leaves, and better traction ensued. When I get around to it, I'm gonna roll reversed eyes. My car weighs so fuck all, and I drive it so fuck all that by the time the eyes unwind themselves, I'll be too old to drive anyway.

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definitely concur with runamuck,

og leaves will be retained for any possible run at the strip,

the toe character of the diff is quite important under

bump with conventional springs the diff moves backwards,

unconventional will move forwards (possibly bind uj's)

under cornering the outside spring in a conventional

set up pulls the diff back on the outside and forward on the inside,

tightening the turning circle and promoting a tighter line,

unconventional will be the oposite and will promote a crab

around the corner with the inside spring flattening and pushing

the inside rear wheel backwards and the outside wheel forwards.

possibly if you want to run a clean line or drive daily you would run a conventional setup,

if you want to promote oversteer you would run unconventional

or just run enough power and conventional and have the best of both worlds

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nah mate thats how an overload spring is meant to be,

it only comes into effect when the load flattens the pack down onto

it leaving a softer spring for day to day use,

otherwise if it were up the other way it would hugely increase the whole packs stiffness

due to the overload coming into contact with the pack more easily,

they are curved down slightly so that they don't bind when either

cornering or loaded mass is relieved

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FUCK those are some leafs man

here's some conversation topics for such a thread titled "leaf spring tech"

Has anyone here had any experience with a coilover/coil spring setup in a originally leafsprung car, using a single leaf as lateral stability? In stead of using a panard rod/watts etc and a 4 link is what I mean.

I have seen quite a few b110s/b310s in japan running a coilover shock and spring to the shock mount on the u-bolt plate under the leaf with no added arms. Logic would tell me that the lateral stability of the factory leafs where never that great and adding atleast a panard/watts etc would help greatly. However I am interested in hearing others experience with the setup.

converse...

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