anglia4's anglia zetec

[anglia4]

yeah i haven't come across any 13x8 hotwires before, 7" is the widest i have seen and they were a reasonable price so i couldn't let them go. just need those darn 16"s to sell now...

found a couple of very small rust spots in the front of the car last night, should be easy repairs though. definately on the home stretch for rust repairs now though.

That massive hole i cut in the floor is the next challenge though

[My name is Russell]

Good stuff! sweet Wheels! make sure you fit tires to check clearances if you get diff shortening done.

Yeah i learnt the hard way cutting out diff and gbox tunnels is the easy bit!

[Ogre]

sweet anglia man!!Nice engine build too, go the R1 carbs.Those wheels are gonna look damn mean too

[EURON8]

I at first thought the buldge on the left of car underneath was a tire and was quite excitied by the ride height, bar the fact that the cars on its side.

Loving the build though, looking good.

[Brock-Lee]

They arent hotwires, they look to be enkei mesh.

sweet build so far

[anglia4]

yeah they are made by enkei but basically the same looking wheel.

that bulge is a tyre under the car haha but its just what the car is sitting on so the panels don't get damaged while its on edge

[Brock-Lee]

Hah, I so didnt realise that this was you Jeff. Have to have beers and talk car shit.

Dave

[anglia4]

haha i figured you were on here somewhere dave but grant didn't know your username

[anglia4]

bike carbs or suck through supercharger???

seen pics of runamucks setup and it looks fuckin amazing.

would be similar price wise, SC = big hole in the hood, Quads would just look wicked. Can't decide plenty of time to think about it though, since i bought the stang theres not alot of money lying around to spend on the a-box for a while till i get the muzzy all sorted

[My name is Russell]

bike carb'd stroker

[anglia4]

bike carb'd stroker

i wish!!!

[Toucan]

Some nice solid progress there man!

Keep it up

[NaN]

Got my revised engine mounts welded and fitted up, just have to trim them to make them look pretty and give them a coat of black zinc.They are way better looking than my previous attempt and allow more space for the starter motor.

Hey dude; nice progress, but a couple of hard learned lessons about engine mounts.

That engine mount design you've done, your putting all your faith into those welds, I'm sure they are good welds, but over time they will be under alot of stress you really should gusset them on all four sides, at each end. Just make up 16 little triangles of 6mm mild steel and weld them in, they will be safe then, and your engine will never come free (imagine if !!!), if it were me I would run supporting lines top and bottom, and then just gussets on the horizontal plane (if you follow me).

Solid mounts are fine, they are legal, but they dont absorb the engines vibrations so at some particular rpm the harmonics will shake the car throughout, ok if it's race car, but on the road it wears thin real fast. I think you might be better to use old trailing arm ends and a 6mm mild steel housing to hold them, pretty much a solid mount but ... less likely to introduce harmonics into the shell, and far more likely to absorb the various stresses and vibrations in that location.

[My name is Russell]

Some good point there nigelwade, wont be hard to do as you got all the hard bits done getting it alligned and fitted. making me think mab i should go solid mount as my rubbers are sarting to split

[NaN]

Some good point there nigelwade, wont be hard to do as you got all the hard bits done getting it alligned and fitted. making me think mab i should go solid mount as my rubbers are sarting to split

I wouldnt recommend it. The single best engine mount design that I can then off from the point of

- cheapest to make

- very easy to line up in the car

- very very strong

- safe

- easy to get engine in and out of car,

- easy to line up engine in car,

would have to be trailing arms gusseted top and bottom length wise with 6mm plate 'fingers' and triangle gussets on the east/west plane, BUT instead of having the opening for the shell end to fit into the crossmember mount facing into the center of the car, have it facing the front of the car, that way the engine can be pulled straight forward off the mounts and out of the car (trust me I wish i'd done that bit myself).

Looks something like this, .. but turn the body mount side 90 degress.

[Mike-e]

I too am a fan of that design, as even if the rubber in the engine mount bushing should brake the engine still wont go anywhere. Nissan terrano nolathane shackle bushes are a good size to start with

[anglia4]

Thanks for the input, the gussets do sound like a good idea, i'll do that next time im home. The welds are strong as, i got a pro to weld them.

Although you can't see it in the photos, its not solid mouted, there are capri engine mounts under there. The big rubber dohnut things. If i had been doing it from scratch i would have gone the trailing arm kind of route but the crossmember i have been working from had already been modified to take a capri v6 and had the cross member half of the mounts already made up for me and had the capri rubber mounts too. Just made sense that all i needed to do was finish them off.

[anglia4]

you can just barely see them in this pic

[NaN]

that kind of engine mount shears away from the steel plate in a crash and over time, if you rolled the car the mounts mount tear away and let the engine roam free. I _really_ dont like that kind I think they're dangerous. Some sort of 'shell' with a bolt through it much safer and more reliable.

[QCADTA]

starting to come along nicely, been watchin this build but been to lazy to post. im liking the wheels. good work.