bubblegoose Posted November 26, 2009 Share Posted November 26, 2009 thast the one bro the passenger door handle was up to fuck all so had to fix all that retrofitting sun visors tomorrow i will say one thing............it looks good..on the outside Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ProZac Posted November 27, 2009 Share Posted November 27, 2009 is it a bit rank underneath? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bubblegoose Posted November 27, 2009 Share Posted November 27, 2009 is it a bit rank underneath? engine bay hasnt even been washed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yoeddynz Posted September 17, 2010 Share Posted September 17, 2010 Your not the only one with a cat that insists on helping- although ours doesn't really help so much as just waste our time... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ProZac Posted September 17, 2010 Share Posted September 17, 2010 Damn, that's one laxed out cat! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bubblegoose Posted September 17, 2010 Share Posted September 17, 2010 shii just noticed how you de spotted the rear panel on the red one, must have taken forever like that. if only i had known i have some epic spare spot drills in my box whats gona happen to the red one now? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ProZac Posted September 17, 2010 Share Posted September 17, 2010 Kept the nose of the red one for subframe mockups and whatnot, but the rest got taken away. I did use a spot drill for the un-picking, but the spring loaded centering spike was shite, so i just drilled small holes and centered it that way. Will remember your offer for next time thought Havent found any rust in the blue one... its quite amazing. A little scabby on the edge of the roof where water sits, but just needs a tidy and paint, no actual welding, score! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bubblegoose Posted September 19, 2010 Share Posted September 19, 2010 spring loaded doesnt work. end of. https://shoponline.wurthusa.com/files/2 ... VKB97S.jpg only ones 'wurth' buying Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ProZac Posted September 20, 2010 Share Posted September 20, 2010 http://retrorides.proboards.com/index.c ... 793&page=5 down the bottom, good guide on sharpening up your own drills into the same kind of spotweld drill. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DodgySam Posted October 23, 2010 Share Posted October 23, 2010 Im loving watching this build...it makes me want to go out to the garage and get back into mine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ProZac Posted October 23, 2010 Share Posted October 23, 2010 It's not that late, get to it! Procrastinating about studying for exams is the BEST motivator for working on your car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yoeddynz Posted February 10, 2011 Share Posted February 10, 2011 Are they tiny little disc made just for minis or off something else? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ProZac Posted February 10, 2011 Share Posted February 10, 2011 Mini's came with a couple of different disc brake setups. The first set I overhauled, with the slotted and dimpled rotors were factory 8.4" disc brakes, which are the most common disc brake option (still pretty rare here in NZ, most are all drum). The ones I'm using now are from an MG Metro turbo. They had the four piston calipers and vented rotors, but kept the same disc diameter of 8.4". You can swap metro brakes in pretty easily, can even use the metro hubs, but it mucks up the suspension geometry a bit... Better to use mini disc brake hubs, but all the metro brake bits. I found the fancy discs through a supplier at work. Got chatting to him one day and he mentioned he had a set of merto discs stashed under a shelf somewhere... He pulled them out and machined them up for me, for a bloody good price too Thanks Mr Znoelli. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yoeddynz Posted February 10, 2011 Share Posted February 10, 2011 they look wicked- little tiny things. I'm guessing they only fit under 13" wheels? I will have to own a mini in the future. Or another imp. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjrstar Posted February 10, 2011 Share Posted February 10, 2011 this looks like it's going to be a nice tidy build.. I am also keen on the details for the discs, I'm running the non vented metro 4 pots and the discs are starting to look a little aged.. I didn't see any info on cam and carb selection? It can make or break the engine setup. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ProZac Posted February 10, 2011 Share Posted February 10, 2011 Engine is going to be the 1100 from the clubman, as its in really good nick. Cam I'm not sure on, but I've got a set of twin HS2's all rebuilt and ready to go, and a set of LCB extractors. While I've got the head off I'll do some very minor port smoothing and what-not, not going to to really wild with it. What do you reckon for a cam? I was going to take it to kelfords and just ask them to tickle it up a bit... but I might do some more in depth reading first i suppose. Brakes are a pretty easy swap if your mini had disc brakes originally. The hard to find parts in NZ are the mini disc brake hubs. If you can only find metro hubs, you need to get the earlier model metro ball-joints, (I'm pretty sure we can get them in a repco), as they match the tapers on the mini arms. You need a set of steering arms from a mini, any model will with, drum models included, as the metro ones are much longer and it fucks up the ackerman angle. You'll also need asjustable lower arms and radius arms, as the ball-joint locations in relation to the wheel are different and your camber/castor will be up the whack. Probably do some good measuring and select a set of wheels with your scrub radius in mind aswell, as I think it becomes a problem with high offset wheels (as in tucked in toward the car) and heavy steering prone to torque steer will result. Regardless of what hubs you run, you need the metro drive flanges, as they put the disc in the correct place with respect to the caliper. The way I've done it: Mini Hubs. Mini steering arms. Metro drive flanges (must lathe/grind off the original wheel mounting lugs for the metro wheels, easy job). Mini disc-brake model CV joints, they're bigger, and fit the metro drive flanges, but i believe all the mini drive shafts themselves are the same, drum brake models included. Metro vented discs. Metro turbo four piston calipers. Twin brake line kit from minispares.co.uk. The metro calpiers are twin pipe inlet, so you need a bridging pipe, was pretty cheap, im sure someone local could make up something similar. mrjstar - Ive got a set of metro turbo calipers here, and drive flanges, and hubs actually if your interested. I've blasted the calipers, and they need new pistons and seals, but that stuff is pretty cheap from minispares. Hubs woul need new bearings/ball joints, and I can modify the drive flanges. I was going to tart them up and sell them on trademe, but if someone bought them and did it themselves it would be way cheaper Alex - You can get them under 12" wheel apparently, but the original mini i bought came with some sweet 13*5.5 super-lites, so I'll be using those Get an Imp. Imps are so fucking cool Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjrstar Posted February 11, 2011 Share Posted February 11, 2011 sorry maybe I wasn't clear..I'm already rocking the early metro 4 pot set-up but I liked the look of your rotors.. I was going to get some new ones from Minispares but I'm thinking the freight would be a killer.. As for the cam, i wouldn't do too much i believe the 1100's can tend to be a bit weak in the crankshaft department. also the smaller the motor the more difference the cam makes. ie: a mild cam for a 1275 would be aggressive in a 998cc motor. You may find the factory 1275GT cam would go nicely in the 1100? I would not go near another re-ground cam considering how cheap new cams for mini's are. I have a re-grind Kent 286 Scattercam which i am not all that happy with, i just need to get my arse into gear and fit the genuine 296 kent cam I just made up some new lines for the brakes and run twin pipes from the sub-frame, although i reckon if i was going to do it again i'd run a transfer pipe from one port on the calliper to the other one.. the twin lines are ugly and need some covering to stop them rubbing against each other.. I have a re-grind Kent 286 Scattercam which i am not all that happy with, i just need to get my arse into gear and fit the genuine 296 kent cam. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yoeddynz Posted February 11, 2011 Share Posted February 11, 2011 yeah hannah had an imp- her first classic. But not many here it seems. Just fancy trying a mini. Will book in a drive in yours once its done! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ProZac Posted February 11, 2011 Share Posted February 11, 2011 I fitted the front skirt properly today, turned out to be a pretty easy job. Shares the bolts on the bottom of the over-riders, and i made some flanged bolts to pin it in at the sides. Tomorrow I'll carve some of the fibreglass away, pop in the flanged bolts, glass over them and be left (hopefully) with a nice strong stud sticking out of the other side. Just back from another 3 hours infront of the sand-blaster... I think pretty much all the blasting is done now. Will sort through everything on monday, take some pictures to i know what goes with what, and send it all off to the electroplaters. mjrstar: Ahhh, I see. What are you doing in the brake master cylinder department? Ive seen lots of people do lots of different things... I'm just going to run the 1275GT split master un-boosted, with adjustable bias to the rear, thoughts? Cheers for the info on cams, its something i havent put to much thought into yet... I'll be getting an order from minispares mid march, so might suss a cam and get it over at the same time. Are non-vented metro discs the same as mini 8.4" discs? If so then getting some grooved ones would be very dooable. I havent seen any listings at work for non-vented metro stuff though. Alex - Minis are definately easier to get over here than an Imp, I've only ever seen a couple of Imps around TBH. Your more than welcome to a drive once it's up and running, might be a while though, Uni is about to start back up and that will consume 90% of my time once again . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjrstar Posted February 11, 2011 Share Posted February 11, 2011 I originally ran the split master on my car, but it never really felt quite right, I went back to the standard master cylinder and have a pretty decent pedal and had no problems passing the brake test on the certification. The split master would pinch a front wheel too easily which was pretty un-nerving. In saying this you might get away with the adjustable bias valve if you took the guts out of the proportioning valve by the rear subframe, although I'd be tempted to try with the standard 1100 m/c and see how it feels. I'm Pretty sure they are the normal 8.4'' disc... But I'll look in to it a bit more first.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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