RUNAMUCK Posted November 15, 2015 Share Posted November 15, 2015 If it were me, I'd stick with the taper. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Something like that with a rolled thread one each end. So it locks into the steering knuckle, and the new rose joint slips over the bit at the bottom. Taper lock and castle nut at the top, and another castle nut at the bottom. What thread is the tie rod sleeve? And can you by rose joints in that thread. Since I intend to be the same low as you, this is very much of interest to me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RUNAMUCK Posted November 15, 2015 Share Posted November 15, 2015 fake edit, I see what you mean about making the sleeve longer. Since it's unsound engineering practice to have the rose joit sticking out too far unsupported, a longer sleeve would mean that there is less hanging out in the breeze, and the joint is more secure, the effort is more direct. (Less lateral movement up and down) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dirty_Safari Posted November 15, 2015 Share Posted November 15, 2015 Excuse my misunderstandings, but would installing drop spindles circumvent the need to dick with the geometry of everything? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Testament Posted November 15, 2015 Share Posted November 15, 2015 would depend on the geometry of the drop spindle. and as clint mentioned the factory spec was not great to start with. so basically this type of thing essentially but to fit valiant steering gear? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Valiant Posted November 16, 2015 Share Posted November 16, 2015 I'm just going to throw another suggestion out there. HBI Engineering in Chch make up/rebuild tie rod ends etc, they make up new tapers and balls for them. You could contact them and get a new longer ball and taper made up to space it down again. it would save you drilling out the steering arms, buying rose joints and so on. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted November 16, 2015 Share Posted November 16, 2015 Yeah that's not a silly idea. I have got another option to try as well that is similar Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhubarb77 Posted December 29, 2015 Share Posted December 29, 2015 Hi. Lots of things changed with your val over the years. I had a tuff NA 2.0L pinto built up for my escort with twin 45's and it runs 14.5 sec 1/4 mile. I am wanting to do what you've done but in the opposite order. So now I'm part way into a turbo Pinto project. I am curious to know why you sacrificed speed & power (turbo) for NA? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raizer Posted December 29, 2015 Share Posted December 29, 2015 I am curious to know why you sacrificed speed & power (turbo) for NA? Thanks This should answer your question //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/41370-cletuss-vg-chicken-coupe/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted December 29, 2015 Share Posted December 29, 2015 Yeah this one was getting to the point where it needed work to go faster, diff and trans needed upgrading, which meant i may as well tub it, the thing was its not good enough to be a real nice car the way it is, but not bad enough to rebuild completely. then the 2 door popped up so i thought id go that way and this can be a useable family cruiser, not the end of the world if it gets scratched or whatever, and its pretty good on fuel now Tis a bit boring at the drags now with less power though, dont know if ill bother again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fletch Posted December 29, 2015 Share Posted December 29, 2015 Shit those videos show how much of a hiding factory suspension gets. Might spend a bit more time on my Cedric's going over all the front end! 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Valiant Posted December 29, 2015 Share Posted December 29, 2015 Have you ever had your suspension doing something funny, you check it all over and it seems good. Replace a couple of bushes even though they look OK and the problem goes away. I think those two films illustrate why. There is a lot of force going into them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoKer Posted December 30, 2015 Share Posted December 30, 2015 I left a note on one of your vids to 'edit' them on YT to flip them around, at least at work I can flip my screen (or Ctrl+arrow does it too iirc) but yea YT will do it for you magnets are choice 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RUNAMUCK Posted December 30, 2015 Share Posted December 30, 2015 I love your home vids! How old are your upper arm bushes? I'm amazed how much free castor you get under braking. Also, how hard does it hook up with the rear leaves so flat? And I thought that blocks had to be boxed in at the ends? I couldn't quite see the inner guard deflection you spoke of. Might have to watch those vids more. pretty riveting viewing. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted December 30, 2015 Share Posted December 30, 2015 from memory the upper arm bushes are just the factory style rubber ones, they were done just before i got it. the blocks are 5mm box, i figured they would be plenty strong enough it is quite surprising how much stuff moves around. makes me think about how much it could be improved by reducing that movement at the 37 second mark in the video with it the right way up, when the brake is applied and the spindle is twisting, watch the top of the screen where the firewall/ inner guard is, and you can see it move slightly. my mrs didnt find these videos as interesting as i did, ha 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Valiant Posted March 27, 2016 Share Posted March 27, 2016 Details, part numbers etc please. Will the adapters pass WOF without a cert update? Well Done! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted March 27, 2016 Share Posted March 27, 2016 does need a cert, but will probably have other things to do before i get it certed again. i dont think anyone would pick it up unless they knew what valiant steering bits are supposed to look like... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roman Posted March 27, 2016 Share Posted March 27, 2016 i now feel like the more analog version of romandave, but regarding valiant front suspension rather than toyotas. That's the second graph that I've seen posted in a project thread today, by someone apart from me. Loving life right now 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roman Posted March 27, 2016 Share Posted March 27, 2016 In other news, your under car suspension videos are really awesome!Great idea. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Valiant Posted March 27, 2016 Share Posted March 27, 2016 does need a cert. I might take my own advice and call into HBI. So about 10mm lower you think? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted March 27, 2016 Share Posted March 27, 2016 from memory, 9-10mm yes. although if you are going to get some made, i would encourage you to do some experimentation with bits of wood/steel etc to check the toe change, and something to space your tie rod ends down, you may find yours could be made even better if you get them made to the actual right length. mine was a case of finding something near enough that was cheap and easy to get if they wear out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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