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Simon's 1983 ST140 Corona coupe.


Simon

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Now I don't know if it would work, but it looks like it could.

Try bolting the centre behind the inner and outer for the rear pair to make a bit of stagger in there.

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Yeah, i was thinking that also.

That is how i had them bolted for polishing and it looked like it was almost made to be like that. (but its not) See pic below.

But i will get the face of the center turned flat so at least it could work.

However it would give the wheel like -20 and 10'+ width but depending how i bolted it could keep it 9.5... Im going to be rolling the rear guards enough as it is haha. Would be sweet if that worked though. I like the look of the center behind too.

1001857iw.jpg

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Looks good as!

I suggest sand blasting the centers then leave them to surface rust, if they are steel that is. Would look mean with polished lip and haggard center.

Gaz

Thats a bloody good idea, im trying to do things a bit different.

Too bad they are alloy though.

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Rusty airbrushing lol. So keen to get my cage airbrushed timber look when I get it :lol:

I haven't read ya whole thread but Im guessing you have used two sets of inner shells? Have you drilled a new hole yourself for the valve to come through?

Gaz

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Yeah, I bought the wheels off Hugo (yokonikero) who did the modifying, not that it was too involved.

Im going to run tubes though.

Yeah they are just two sets of 6j (i think) wheels with the back rings put together.

Its probably only Chris Cain who gives a shit / would know that they are not the real deal lol and they were cheap enough for the specs.

14x9.5 -10 But if I do what I / Z.E.B mentioned above Im guessing they could become -25 to 30 offset and a bit over 10' wide for a staggered rear pair.

Bit silly really as

the dish looks a bit too much

bolt on flares are cheating.

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Its lower than the bump stops at the rear.

Going to have to cut them in less than half.

Also make exhaust go under the diff.

Im going to have to either shorten the shocks 20mm or move the mount on the diff down further.

Which is the better plan?

Its way more slammed than factory when the back ends off the ground and the shocks topped out haha.

Got to finish exams then i can polish the other wheels on the cressida, then sell it plus the other wheels i have and then will have the money buffer to send the struts to driftmonkey to work magic and return as coilovers.

Going to make up a hagard guard roller the attatches to hub and pivots.

This way i can put tension on it perpendicular to the car with another cars tow bar or winch haha.

I cant be bothered doing all the fiber glassing like what lofreq did, plus i dont need the clearance that he did.

Hope suspension cert is reasonable price.

Would be nice to make OS Jap meet.

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Yeah, the fronts definitely stick out too far. Looks funny.

Will try and get 10mm machined from the center to bring them back to 0 offset for the front.

Depending on brake clearance that is.

1042013.jpg

Yokie's blue coupe was a factory turbo one and they had factory flared guards.

His red sedan was a hack and just had the shit bashed of of the guards.

Gutted he only has one guard from the coupe or i would have bought them off him.

I dont want flares.

Next on the list is get the panhard rod to hold the diff center at that height and cut the bumpstops to suit.

Then its build coilovers and cert for jap meat.

May have to do some ringing round to find someone that will cert it haha.

Will trailer it across the NI if anyone knows of a lenient certer.

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