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GARDRB's 1986 Corolla CE71


di0n

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you can get hosetails that have male and female threads and elbows so super easy to do and get, and then just some fuel safe/alcohol safe rubber hose as brake fluid sucks balls and be way better using decent rubber with a couple hose clamps. by like 30bucks surely.  any of the hydraulink/enzed shops/engineering supply shops have the cheap brass fittings.
its only fluid supply so doesnt have to be steel etc as all oems use this method for remote reservoirs

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20 hours ago, GARDRB said:

Also, because Toyota so kindly put my rear brake line and my fuel lines down my tunnel, nice and high and out of the way of the road, and I have a fast spinning driveshaft in there that could explode and destroy everything in it's path, I've got to move my hard lines for cert.
 

 

 

This peaks my interest. I wasn't aware that fuel and brake lines couldnt be in the tunnel and I don't recall reading anything about this.
I vaguely remember someone telling me that if you're making twice the original power you need to have two driveshaft hoops and cant have the lines too close to the drive shaft but haven't found any literature backing this up.

Is it because you're making a certain amount of power compared to what it comes with from the factory?

Perhaps a question(s) for our residential cert overlord @cletus

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4 minutes ago, kseries.rookie said:

 

 

 

This peaks my interest. I wasn't aware that fuel and brake lines couldnt be in the tunnel and I don't recall reading anything about this.
I vaguely remember someone telling me that if you're making twice the original power you need to have two driveshaft hoops and cant have the lines too close to the drive shaft but haven't found any literature backing this up.

Is it because you're making a certain amount of power compared to what it comes with from the factory?

Perhaps a question(s) for our residential cert overlord @cletus

This is where I asked Clint

 

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6 minutes ago, kseries.rookie said:

 

 

 

This peaks my interest. I wasn't aware that fuel and brake lines couldnt be in the tunnel and I don't recall reading anything about this.
I vaguely remember someone telling me that if you're making twice the original power you need to have two driveshaft hoops and cant have the lines too close to the drive shaft but haven't found any literature backing this up.

Is it because you're making a certain amount of power compared to what it comes with from the factory?

Perhaps a question(s) for our residential cert overlord @cletus

10.9.2 in the construction manual, must not be positioned near moving parts. Unless protected, or outside of thr movement of a broken driveshaft

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9 minutes ago, tortron said:

10.9.2 in the construction manual, must not be positioned near moving parts. Unless protected, or outside of thr movement of a broken driveshaft

Would be awesome if it actually sent me the download link when registering.

17th time lucky, lets hope!
image.png.8c03be60ae683b0d8ed049cf624548e1.png

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1 minute ago, kseries.rookie said:

Would be awesome if it actually sent me the download link when registering.

17th time lucky, lets hope!
image.png.8c03be60ae683b0d8ed049cf624548e1.png

I've messaged @KKtrips with the solution for that. He said they were looking into it. It will be in your spam

 

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You say you got copper brake pipe... if its straight copper it won't pass cert. 

Needs to be copper/nickel ( also known as Cu/Ni or kunifer).

Might pay to double check before you get into it. Or post a pic of the markings on it.

 

Sweet project though!

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20 minutes ago, RXFORD said:

You say you got copper brake pipe... if its straight copper it won't pass cert. 

Needs to be copper/nickel ( also known as Cu/Ni or kunifer).

Might pay to double check before you get into it. Or post a pic of the markings on it.

 

Sweet project though!

You go work on your van aswell

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47 minutes ago, RXFORD said:

You say you got copper brake pipe... if its straight copper it won't pass cert. 

Needs to be copper/nickel ( also known as Cu/Ni or kunifer).

Might pay to double check before you get into it. Or post a pic of the markings on it.

 

Sweet project though!

Yeah it’s sold as Copper Nickel, it’s from Ali Express though so I’m a little dubious 

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18 minutes ago, GARDRB said:

Yeah it’s sold as Copper Nickel, it’s from Ali Express though so I’m a little dubious 

Ah yeh, I'm sceptical of that stuff. It looks more orangeish, which is more like straight copper. 

Cu/Ni is a bit more gold coloured. 

But if you have receipts for it, then hopefully itl be fine. 

 

 

49 minutes ago, Dudley said:

You go work on your van aswell

I have been!

Go work on your colouring book. 

 

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33 minutes ago, GARDRB said:

Yeah it’s sold as Copper Nickel, it’s from Ali Express though so I’m a little dubious 

Yeah I wouldn't risk it tbh 

If you get asked for a receipt,  it is unlikely that anyone would risk certing aliexpress brake parts 

 

Rock auto does rolls of it at a reasonable price,  and does tube nuts as well

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