GARDRB's 1UZFE CE71 Corolla Wagon

[di0n]

Bought this a few months ago with overheating problems and it became my daily. Overheating has got alot worse making it pretty much undriveable so it's time for a change of engine. Out with the 1C diesel and in with the 4age.

Some specs:

Engine - 1C 1800 diesel

Gearbox - W56 (factory)

Diff - ???

Suspension rear - reset leaves and 2inch blocks

Suspension front - cut springs with AE92 shocks and NCRCA's

Steering - steering box

Wheels - 14x6 SSR MkII's & 14x8.5 or 9 SSR meshs but need guard mods

Some pics:

Thanks to the previous owner for the pics...

Comments and responses HERE please...

Edited March 12 by di0n
Updated build thread link

[di0n]

Currently trying to sell on of my cars to pay for a 4age and bellhousing. Hoping the 4age on an A-series crossmember will bolt to the gearbox with the right bellhousing. Bit worried the box might be too far forward or back. Will just have to try it I guess....

[di0n]

Another concern I have is the diesel to petrol swap. Excuse the noob questions Does a diesel have a return line? Can I use the diesel tank if I clean it out? I'm guessing I'll need to run an external electric pump?

[di0n]

Sold my daily so that has freed up some cash to buy the necessary parts. Got to spend some time getting my ute going and certd so I have a vehicle again before I rip into thwe wagon. Having a hard time deciding wether to go AE86 bluetop or stealing my brothers spare small port 16v and buying the RWD parts or just spending the extra money and getting a blacktop.

[di0n]

The sale of another one of my vehicles plus a little research has helped me decide on the Altezza Beams 3SGE as the new power house. Main reason being it'll bolt up to my 1C bellhousing. Should have plenty of power for the little wagon but still be driveable. I may have issues with the height of the engine (bonnet clearance) but will deal with that when I get to it.

Also sussed out some new wheels...

SSR Mesh 14x9 around -10 to -15 offset

Need a bit of a tidy up but should look nice when they're done.

[di0n]

So I went out and bought an AE85 the other day. Complete minus engine and box. Figured I'd just buy a full setup for it. But strangely enough it's made me more motivated to finish the wagon. So I txt Brendon from Nite Parts and sorted out a 4age-W56 Bellhousing. Very good guy to deal with for those of you who don't know. Also sussed a RWD smallport manifold. So hopefully get it all in and going in the next few weeks.

Sorry no pics. Will update when my parts arrive.

[di0n]

Haha thread resurrection nearly two years on! My wagon has been in storage up until recently when I got motivated again. Now has a 4AGZE mounted to an AE86 crossmember. Just completed the rack and pinion conversion. Hopefully things will progress quicker this time around.

[di0n]

Also purchased a LS400 as a new daily that I'm modifying. Bought it totally stock. Now looks like this:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/62782240@N07/6688573881/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/62782240@N07/6688574655/

[GARDRB]

Discuss here

 

Ok, so I bought this off @di0n sometime in 2012, needless to say, things haven't progressed quicker. It now has more engine than it ever needed and is in 1800 pieces, but sometimes @Dudley talks me into working on it.

 

The engine is hopefully out for the last time at the moment while I do some bits and pieces like moving the brake and fuel lines out of the tunnel and making sure I'm gonna have enough clutch master for the hydraulic release bearing.

 

The current spec list is:

1986 CE71 Diesel Corolla wagon.
1995 UCF20 second generation 1uzfe
Factory 1UZ auto bell housing with an adapter plate
Factory-fitted W56 (I think it's a 56) from behind the diesel
3S-GTE flywheel with Hilux Surf clutch
Quartermaster hydraulic release bearing
Tilton 76-series stubby clutch master with Chinesium reservoir
Shortened factory driveshaft because the gearbox is pushed back to get the engine as low and far back as possible. 
Ex @sheepers Crown diff with Altezza LSD head with the KBM treatment.
AE92 FXGT rear calipers and non-turbo S14 discs
Ex C's Garage reset leaves and shocks

MRP Wilwood kit
Chinesium smaller brake booster
MRP front Coilovers

Early Evo/GSR Recaros on Bride rails
A Racetech drivers seat on a Scarles bracket.

Factory ECU
Siemens fuel pump on the end of the factory fuel feed in the tank.

14x6.5 Starsharks with Direzza ZIIs
 

[GARDRB]

3 hours ago, Dudley said:

Oi go work on your car

My new reservoir showed up from Ali today, so I threaded it in and realised I couldn't open it under the pinch weld on the firewall.

So I went and got an adapter to screw it into the AN3 front port instead of the AN4 rear port

Now it fits nicely in front of the pinch weld.

 

[GARDRB]

Also, because Toyota so kindly put my rear brake line and my fuel lines down my tunnel, nice and high and out of the way of the road, and I have a fast spinning driveshaft in there that could explode and destroy everything in it's path, I've got to move my hard lines for cert.

So I've bought a tube bender and a roll of copper brake line and just need to get fuel line.

 

In their infinite wisdom, Toyota decided to have the passenger's rear floor pan stick down lower than the chassis rail, so it looks like I'm going to have to run the lines out through the side of the engine bay and down the outside of the chassis rail next to the pinch weld to avoid the dip in the floor and keep them up nice and high


 

[GARDRB]

Max showed up this afternoon with my sump which he has had modified to fix a leak and clear the steering rack better. I've drawn the lower pan flange in fusion and I'm going to try and design a wider slimmer winged pan to give me some more ground clearance and try and get the sump up in line with the crossmember.

He's also had a 4age throttle body flange welded onto his 2T intake manifold so we can use the 4age throttle and it's corresponding TPS so I'll update his thread soon hopefully

[GARDRB]

Also in "Today stuff shows up for my Corolla" @di0n received the thread for my interior today

The plan is to do my door cards in a similar fashion to these FJ45 ones he did, but black and with the orange stitching to match the FXGT steering wheel. I'll design and cut the cards and get him to deal with the stitching side. I've got some ideas for map pockets and armrests too so I'll see how I go. I'm thinking I'll do a detail section with a black basketweave vinyl too

 

[GARDRB]

Because I have a spicy brain I'm going to make you all suffer through 12 years of out of order updates based on which photos I find first.

The diesel wagon comes factory with a larger s-series diff compared to the normal KE70, but this still wasn't going to cut the mustard because V8 and because I wanted an easy LSD option. I looked at options, first was G-Series Hilux, which I decided was heavier than what I needed, and settled on an F-Series. Now I needed to find one. Some of you may have heard of a Crown foamer called @sheepers, @Snoozin suggested I hit him up about a housing, and he supplied me with an MS85 drum brake diff. 

Somehow it made it's way to me and I turned it from a 5-stud, 3-link drum brake diff into a 4-stud, leaf sprung diff with AE92 FXGT calipers and S14 discs. We drew up some caliper adapters on paper and got them laser cut (I'll probably make better ones now that I have skills and shit) and an engineer a friend in Silverdale uses welded and redrilled the axles before I chucked some Landcruiser studs in them. The amount of time it took to get the axles done really makes me scared of breaking one, but we will see how we go. 

The LSD was bought off someone on Facebook and is an Altezza A-series torsen of a forgotten ratio, most likely 4.1, my same SIlverdale friend sent it to our mate Kayne Barrie for a bit of a freshen up and to be put into the Crown carrier. It's got a solid pinion spacer and he has really high standards and attention to detail, so I'm sure it will be a nice diff.

I set about making some really ugly brake lines which was a learning experience and I have just recently found out how dumb I am, because they run through where the bump stop needs to land, so I'll probably redo them, maybe even with braided line if I get super lazy. Keep in mind I'm a computer guy, and that this is my first rear wheel drive car.

[GARDRB]

Just storing these so they don't get lost. This is the rear suspension setup I have although looking at the pics my shocks are grey rather than black so they must have changed them at some stage before I got the setup

[GARDRB]

So @Dudley hooked me up with a Wilwood prop valve that he may have stolen off his dad...

I've pulled the factory rear line out and rebent it to go out the side of the engine bay and run down beside the seam in the inner wheel well. I've replaced the plastic screw clips on the guard liner tabs with rivnuts and am planning to make a panel  that works as a guard liner and protective cover for the brake and fuel lines. Maybe from some sort of plastic and I'll probably mount it inboard of the seam as well just to hold it off the lines.

I've repurposed the factory fuel and brake line mounts and attached them with as few holes in the floor as possible as I didn't want rivnuts sticking up under my carpet.

I'm gonna have to get some more brackets from somewhere, so might check out Zebra at some stage as I don't really trust 3d printed ones and I assume I'm going to need to mount the lines at 300mm spacings even if I'm mounting in a factory manner?

I'm thinking about making some sort of cover that protects the line where it crosses in front of the leaf mount and I'm gonna tidy up some of the bends (and straights) eventually.

This little kink in front of that last bracket is essentially coz I didn't want to cut and flare the line just to take that much out. The line is basically the factory length with the front flare cut off to suit the Wilwood nut and then run down the side of the car rather than the tunnel. I've still got the fuel feed and return to add down there. The feed will be the factory 8mm line and the return I'm upgrading to 8mm from the 6mm factory return with an ae86 factory feed I round in the rafters. I'm thinking I might add some sort of protection down that rail just to make sure nothing gets smoked into the ground.

It's pretty satisfying how the line runs into the factory rear flexy hose for the diff. With the two fuel lines, I'll keep them running down the outside of the spring and then run the soft line into the tank through under the bump stop platform.

[GARDRB]

I chucked the gearbox in to see where the clutch line wanted to run and realised it was essentially going to be hanging out with the driver's side header, so converted the feed line to hardline inside the bell housing so I could snake it out the top, still clear the clutch and ring gear and clear the tunnel. You can see the hole that the lines originally ran through in the top of the bell housing, but that was interfering with the tunnel. I hopefully got the soft line to a place where I can disconnect it with the engine in place too. 

I'm gonna try to get the engine in tomorrow and make up a fuel return. Then all going well fill the thing with fluids and drive it out of the shed under its own power for the first time ever at some stage this weekend.

[GARDRB]

So my sump has always been really friendly with my steering rack. I've done a chunk of research into this conversion over the years, and it always involved spacing the crossmember down, cutting the tunnel or running no front sway bar or a combination of the above. 

I started with a 20mm crossmember spacer, and have never been a big fan of the idea of lowering my suspension pickup points as I wanted to retain some sort of decent geometry. The engine has been in and out a huge number of times as I've procrastinated on finishing the car. When I first put the engine in I'd read that I needed to clearance the piece where the sump drops down to the gearbox, this was obviously from someone who was running without a front swaybar as through all the finessing of engine positioning I was able to get the engine behind the sway bar and the bell housing clearing the tunnel. 

When I initially clearanced the sump I managed to flapper wheel my way through the alloy so had to get it welded up. Then when I decided to that I wanted to try no crossmember spacers I managed to crack the repair. So this time since I was getting it repaired anyway I figured I may as well get a bit of a notch put into it for the rack. You can see how far back the engine sits from the difference between the initial clearance and the notch that we put over the rack.

I was all excited to get the sump back on and I'd claimed that I was going to get the car running and drive it under its own power for the first time. It must have heard me and gone, "nah fuck you" coz when I bolted the sump up there was a huge gap between the sump and block. I agonised over it for ages and sent @Dudley and some other friends some pics and was ready to throw the thing off a cliff. I found another sump in Auckland, but the guy was a pain to deal with, so I started having a fiddle with some other bits and pieces with the intention of just ignoring it.

A friend of a friend is a fabricator with a bunch of experience, but kinda hard to pin down. My mate Jesse (who is like an excitable puppy) wanted to see things sorted and organised for Dan to fix the warp. So I chucked the engine on the crossmember, chucked it in the back of Dad's van, then found out Dan doesn't have an engine crane, so we managed to squeeze my crane in the van too. We finally got to Dan's at 10pm and pulled it out of the van and sat it down on a tyre on his floor and rolled the engine over to get to the sump. It was decided we were gonna run a slit through the sump and bolt it down to the block before welding it back up. Dan got all ADHD on it and out came the fabricator perfectionism and we veed it all out and cleaned it up pretty good then slipped a couple of steel rules under it so that once it was welded up and cooled down it would have somewhere to pull back from.

Dan moaned the whole way through the job like all fabricators, complained about how dirty it was and how badly it was welding and forbid me from telling anyone that he did it, or showing his work, but it looks like it's gonna seal well and I'm totally stoked with it. I'm pretty glad Jesse pushed me to get it done as I would have ignored it for as long as possible and the sump is now sealed up and the motor is 99% ready to go back in the hole. 

Before

After

[GARDRB]

While I was procrastinating with the sump I got the heater hoses all ready to go. Hopefully I should get able to trim and connect them up in the car and if I'm really lucky find the firewall grommet for the heater hose. Luckily coz of the size of the engine the majority of the sins and ugly hoses hide behind the engine. Eventually I'll pull the engine back out (hopefully out the bottom) and repaint the engine bay and heat shield a bunch of stuff.

[GARDRB]

So the engine is back in the engine hole

I'd forgotten how friendly it all is in there and have been playing hide the sausage in the back of the engine bay trying to get all the hoses and things in. 
The good news is that the new booster gives heeeeeaps of room from the driver's side head. The bad news is that the fancy new Tilton clutch master is still very close to the plug lead cover. I'm looking at scootching the engine forward a couple of mm to gain a bit more clearance to the clutch master and potentially spacing the gearbox mount up off the cross-member to gain a few more bee's dicks. Did I mention this engine isn't designed to fit in this car? 
The heater tap is pretty ugly, but I like that it's OEM and most of the sins are hidden by the factory 1UZ cover which I think looks pretty cool in the Corolla engine bay (when it's clean).

 

Problem number two is that the rack and sump are still veeeeeeeeeery friendly. I've finessed the cast mount on the rack quite a bit, but it's pretty clear that the patch that banana sump guy put on the sump (after I ground it away too much) kinda needs to move, but I'm really struggling with the concept of taking the sump off again and getting someone else to weld it again, but deep down I know that this is the best solution.

Early on I got some 12mm spacers made up for the cross-member because it appeared to be what all the cool kids who were doing silly swaps that weren't meant to fit in this small engine bay were doing. I really wanted to take them out, but have put them back in temporarily because the help with clutch cylinder clearance and also let me run a packer under the engine mount to get me some height off the rack.

My ideal scenario is that I pull the sump out again and get it notched more and then sit the engine a little closer to the swaybar to give me more clearance to the clutch master. 

I'm also looking for one of these intake pipes, coz I like OEM and young, dumb me cut the resonator box off the bottom of it early on when I needed booster clearance.

I've made a start on mapping out where I have space to wing the sump pan so I can shorten the height of it and try and retain the capacity, as currently the pan hangs below the cross-member, and the whole underside of the car is covered in scars from where it's been plowed into the road. The rectangle is safe space in the engine bay, so I should easily be able to get the capacity back after taking the 15-25mm off the bottom of the pan that I need.

My brother is still campaigning for me to give up and put a 4 cylinder in it. But I really want to at least drive it. And the only engine that I've considered replacing it with is a K24 which ends up costing moonbeams in swap parts.