kpr's ae85

[kpr]

Finally brought an ecu.  wanted to try one of the new g5 links.  but couldn't justify the price, and no real need for it.    So  got a g4x xtreme, as is  lowest model that can run e throttle without and external box
Speaking of external boxes.  not a fan of any extra gauges, dashes,  keypads  etc.    and for the most part they just tell you when your engine is already blown up.  
So made some brackets that tuck the ecu and fuse box out of sight. 

 

yo dawg i heard you like brackets, so i put a bracket on your bracket 

paired up with the $40 dollar aliexpress fuse/relay box.  which is actually pretty choice, unless it catches fire. 

It come with a lid but doesnt fit behind kick panel.  so can stay open 

 

 

 

 

[kpr]

wires,  fun times.   Waiting for some more china stuff to finish it. but  got a good part of it done
running split loom for the main part, since 99% chance will change things at later date.  so needs to be serviceable 
most of it will be hidden, rather than a showpiece  

 

 

Trigger bracket on 
Made adapter to put oil pressure/temp sensor,  in oil pump bung. ideally would be post filter, to be most accurate of what engine is seeing.   
I did think about  making a block instead of the vvti banjo, with a port for the sensor, but wasnt that motivated.  Is only really there for a tuning aid anyway.

running aliexpress denso style plugs, on things that need plugs,  they seem decent and cheap 
plus if get keen, can make a bracket for them to clip onto.   yeah i deburred that hole 

 

 

[kpr]

Loom basically done.  changed some of the split loom after this picture. as the ali special stuff is super thin, crushes and looks horrible.   Coil / hot side stuff is heat sleeved.  the xlr connector down bottom by ecu plugs is for dyno wideband connection 

Getting pretty close to first start up.  shimless buckets showed up, so top end is all together properly now.   e throttles and stuff all work. engine turns over and has oil pressure.    Just waiting on a few more bits,  then rest can go together 

 

 

made this dipstick tube that doubles as the oil return for the vvti   

Have room on this setup, since no fuel rail in the way. so the lines do a sneaky sneaky  around the back 

 

Had a bit of a shitfight buying injectors, not naming any names   NZAIRFITER  / DSR TURBO   

massive sharn what happened.     But bosch group the flow rates of their 980cc injectors with a little dot on the side ,   red, yellow, blue.   I asked for them to be checked before sending them out. 

Yeah nar sends 2 red,  2 yellow.  red ones can flow up to 7-8% more than the blue and yellow somewhere in between.  I wont bore you with the details of the bad customer service, but was basically stuck with them. please dont buy anything of this guy 

 

The link can do pretty cool injector test. so ordered some measuring  tubes off aliexpress and rigged up this abortion with one of the bike rails. conveniently they have clips to hold the injectors in the rail and i can run deadhead setup on my fuel system.  This is all attached to the fuel system and ecu in the car 

Test run on the bike injectors.  they flowed nice and even. pretty good for some 10 year old injectors that have been kicking around the floor of my shed.   but they are a touch small to run as single set of 4. the bike runs 8 injectors 

 

with the 980's in the rail  wide open test  (100% duty) for 30 sec.   (double the time about 900cc/min)   red, red, yellow yellow    

 

Just as bosch states    the 2 red ones on left flow more than the yellow on right.    about 4.5%  difference.     real world (roughly) if you tuned the engine at 12.5:1 afr.  you would have the far left running at about 12.3afr and the far right running at 12.7afr.   not great, not end of the world. unless you got unlucky pair that far right injector up with a cylinder that wants to run leaner than the rest. 

 

 Next with  little math i simulated the engine running at about 8500rpm  for 1 minute  at about 40%  duty.   since this engine will never see anywhere near 100% duty. though may get lucky and they
would flow closer to each other  at lower dutys

Still about 4%   different down at that duty.        Yes the math doesn't math, as they should be flowing around the 360cc (360ml) mark,  going by the wide open test.   
The next day after the petrol fumes wore off i realized i didn't account for the the inejector deadtime.  so real world with the right deadtime numbers, that would be at about 28%  duty.    
Done another test at 80% duty  also, with similar results,  about 4% difference

Will order a pair of yellow dot injector off someone who is less retarded,  as thats whats in the starlet.   flow all 8 and match up 2 sets for both cars.   so not all is bad, the starlet might get a set of better matched injectors out of it as well 

 

 

 

 

[kpr]

/ Update. 

Yea i did nothing but bolt the on headers  and sat the intake on, to see what it would look like finished with loom 

 

 

 

[kpr]

So turns out after talking to another injector supplier,  bosch dont group the injectors by colour anymore.  If that means they make them more even now,  or they just cut costs and dont bother at all, i dont know.  so old mate was selling old stock.     annd my plan to buy more yellow ones was a fail.    So was either  buy a flow matched set and waste 400 bucks worth of injectors.  or test everything i had and hope for the best.    which i done the latter.   

ended up with; 
4x lower flowing set, with 1.5% difference   -  now in trueno
4x higher flowing set   with  2.6%   difference  - now in starlet.   the old grouping in the starlet was basically the same % 

Not terrible, the 2  red still the highest flowing  but they come together fairly close at low duty.    At 100duty they are all over the shop. so just flowed them where they will be used 

Back 1 million years ago i put a wideband in each cylinder in the starlet.  the front cylinder  was leanest and  4 was richest.   I have no idea if it was even running these injectors back then, or if cyl1 just gets more air.   but i'm now running the injectors in order, most flow number 1 least 4.     

 

Anyway, trueno.  It runs now.    gearbox seems to be leaking out the front  which is super annoying.  as its a complete dick to get in and out of the car and i hate mechanicing.    I didn't notice it  until drove it about 10m  to the dyno.   Will run it up to see if everything else works before pulling it apart  /  hope it self heals 

Exhaust is quiet and runs like a nana  for having 300deg cams.   so thats a win  

 

 

 

 

 

 

[kpr]

So  done a few runs on dyno today.  still lots of tweaks and testing to go.  but its doing pretty good on initial setup,  with ballpark tune and same deal with vvti settings 

141kw so far,    4th gear runs, will show more in 1:1  gear, close to 150.    Is using about  36%  injector duty vs the starlet at about 40% duty.  so the math is mathing.  

Kinda looks like it needs some intake length tuning the way it flat lines in the top end.  so might be a bit more there, along with bunch of other stuff  need to try  

 

 

put the "dyno wheels"  off starlet   on it  to try do a 1:1 gear run  (j160 5th)   then procced to get it beached on the rollers,   twice   

 

 

[kpr]

some perspective,  i dyno'd a basically stock ae86  the other day.       

[kpr]

tired a bunch of stuff today.   got a bit more out of it.    Intake tuning wasn't really doing what i hoped.  will try more stuff at later date, 

 

 

1:1  run with same wheels, same diff ratio.   starlet (current spec) vs trueno Ignore the disaster below 3500 an above  9500.      Not bad considering the trueno  is on stock valves,  smaller cams and the headers make a little less up top than whats on the starlet   

 

 

 

 

 

 

[kpr]

So yes the gearbox didn't self heal, very surprising..   also have issues with clutch travel. so will fix that at same time

Annd  I think im choking this thing on the exhaust side.    Its running some handme down and left over cam combo.    turns out the exhaust cam is smaller than i had though when half assed looked at the advertised duration, plus was being cheap and didn't want to buy cams.      its running a 304 intake and a 294 exhaust, advertised numbers.   which is a little bit of a split, but nothing too crazy.    But  at 1mm lift,  its 262/248. tells more of a story.
now what makes it worse, this head is running stock valves.   the  big valve head on the starlet is 2mm oversize  and runs a bigger exhaust cam. 
So if the If the high port wizardry is doing its thing.  possibly have a homer simpson towel rail situation 

 

 

Its also why it runs nice, since the exhaust cam isn't huge, so may end up running this combo.   
Once its fixed will pinch the exhaust cam out of the starlet  for some testing.  Will be a cam combo i ran for quite some time in the starlet. so can more directly compare what this head is doing 

 

[kpr]

Fun times 

 

Actually isn't too bad to take the engine out.  the gearbox is a knob though.  hence why engine out, even though gearbox the problem. 
think it was leaking out one of the bolts that holds the bearing retainer plate / bit the release bearing slides on. what ever its called.    
wasn't the input shaft seal anway, which is good as i replaced it, and if it were leaking would have got oil on my expensive clutch 

Back together and doesn't seem to be leaking yet.   the geabox oil looked bad for how long it had been in there, so still not sold on this box. see how it goes i guess

It also changes gears now.  After cutting some out of the clutch fork and moving the slave inwards, it still sucked.   
managed to drop the master cylinder down a touch, so could adjust the pedal ratio,  which gave it enough travel to fix it.  

Some sneaky.  well not so sneaky test runs up the road, since had to check that it changes gear at 9500rpm. 
It goes pretty good, obviously not starlet fast, but the better ratios are a good thing 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[kpr]

So  I drove this thing up the road a couple times,  then lost interest.   as the gearbox leaked again.   it was just a slower version of the starlet, that wasnt any nicer to drive.   I probably should have put the interior and the likes back together before driving it. 

Then the starlet engine  exploded.   so i pinched that back from this car and put it back in the starlet.  

 

I had this idea already, but this chain of events made it happen.     Build a junk turbo engine  to test a bunch of stuff on.  

 Got an old bigport block From @Dudley which he go from @GARDRB  and also some ze pistons and crank from @Dudley       So all under lifetime  warranty
some china rods which i was given back in the day 

weight matched them all. well the were all bang on even the factory pistons.   gaped the original rings for all the boost 

running low on oil pump housings other than crappy square tooth pumps.   managed to dig this one out of a swamp tho

ported and fresh gears ive taken out of a new pump to swap to toda gears

arp  main studs i took out of the exploded block.  same deal with main bearings.    found some more 2nd hand big end acl race bearings also
bearing clearance is actually really good for whats its going to do.
 

So yeah its built from a bunch of old trash.   but should be a fairly solid engine 

The bro gave me a deal on a bellhousing. so can go back to w box on this car.    Just easier to work on and i cbf'd dealing with this leaky  j160 right now 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[kpr]

Modified my orc clutch to take a metal plate in hopes it will hold enough power

 

Mocked up a few things to test so far

2zz intake

Log

Then the other extreme 4-2-1 turbo header

I'm hoping on a deal to come through on a turbo,  then can start to fab things

got  the og w55  in the car today and test fitted mock up engine block. Need a touch more clearance on the release bearing to pressure plate.  As I'm using all the bits off the j160, so it's a mash up or parts.  But should be easy fix.  Otherwise box slots back in place of the j160. Since same length and splines