Spencer Posted November 12, 2015 Share Posted November 12, 2015 fuck i dunno. its a million years away from right now. ill figure it out when i get to it. could make billet ones…………... Yea I know just fun to talk about, I think we have it sorted! billet it is. You should start keeping an eye out for a crown center sump setup for a JZ if you aren't already, they make the install much nicer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sheepers Posted November 12, 2015 Share Posted November 12, 2015 centre sump. so hard to find. i have a rear but i don't think I've even seen a centre. TBH right now I'm not keeping an eye out for anything. got a house to build before i worry about any of this shit 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brocky41 Posted November 14, 2015 Share Posted November 14, 2015 Seriously how do you get so much work completed - lol - awesome work. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mof Posted November 14, 2015 Share Posted November 14, 2015 ^Agree It boggles the mind Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
japawagons Posted November 14, 2015 Share Posted November 14, 2015 centre sump. so hard to find. i have a rear but i don't think I've even seen a centre. TBH right now I'm not keeping an eye out for anything. got a house to build before i worry about any of this shit I have a centre sump set up, I no longer own any crowns... I think I'd be very happy for you to use it for this vehicle... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xsspeed Posted November 14, 2015 Share Posted November 14, 2015 Saw you heading northbound on the southern maybe wed morning? Is that when it popped? Oh no you posted on the 9th. Maybe it was another day Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sheepers Posted November 14, 2015 Share Posted November 14, 2015 I have a centre sump set up, I no longer own any crowns... I think I'd be very happy for you to use it for this vehicle... id be happy for that to happen too. it'll be a while before i need it though. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sheepers Posted November 14, 2015 Share Posted November 14, 2015 Seriously how do you get so much work completed - lol - awesome work. it doesn't take long to get the head off. 3 hours maybe, and 4 to put the shit back together. i dont reckon i get anything done lighting fast. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yowzer Posted November 14, 2015 Share Posted November 14, 2015 I thought I had that? Or is it still at the workshop? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dell'orto Posted November 29, 2015 Share Posted November 29, 2015 http://www.engineswapdepot.com/?p=8336 Don't know if you've seen this, but damn it's cool. Would you go EFI? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sheepers Posted November 29, 2015 Share Posted November 29, 2015 yea that is pretty cool. looks like they've made a nice job of it too. i probably will go EFI but who knows. ill decide on the day. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ned Posted January 8, 2020 Share Posted January 8, 2020 queued up at 10:39 6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stel Posted August 21, 2023 Share Posted August 21, 2023 On 26/01/2013 at 14:57, sheepers said: exhaust is finished. i got it sitting really high so i think i should be good for clearance. the lowest part is still the gearbox crossmember by about 20mm so the zorst should be fine. I've replaced the gearbox bolts with countersinks so the heads don't get smashed off. also, im running one hotdog and no muffler. it was like this before and was pretty quiet so I'm hoping it will still be quiet-ish with only the hotdog. time will tell. http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g233/sheepers-RA28/20130126_170306.jpg http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g233/sheepers-RA28/20130126_170347.jpg http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g233/sheepers-RA28/20130126_170424.jpg this is supposed to show how high the exhaust is but it doesn't really show anything? http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g233/sheepers-RA28/20130126_170521.jpg sheepers. On 26/01/2013 at 14:57, sheepers said: exhaust is finished. i got it sitting really high so i think i should be good for clearance. the lowest part is still the gearbox crossmember by about 20mm so the zorst should be fine. I've replaced the gearbox bolts with countersinks so the heads don't get smashed off. also, im running one hotdog and no muffler. it was like this before and was pretty quiet so I'm hoping it will still be quiet-ish with only the hotdog. time will tell. http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g233/sheepers-RA28/20130126_170306.jpg http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g233/sheepers-RA28/20130126_170347.jpg http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g233/sheepers-RA28/20130126_170424.jpg this is supposed to show how high the exhaust is but it doesn't really show anything? http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g233/sheepers-RA28/20130126_170521.jpg sheepers. Hi sheepers the gearbox mount and crossmember . Did you modify either , to support the gearbox . I have a Ms 51 and I have fitted a w55 box . Previously the original 4 speed was in place . Can’t quite see what you have done with the gearbox mount to suit the crossmember . Any suggestions, Awesome build can’t help but say wow . Regards Ben Stellini Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sheepers Posted August 22, 2023 Share Posted August 22, 2023 10 hours ago, Stel said: Hi sheepers the gearbox mount and crossmember . Did you modify either , to support the gearbox . I have a Ms 51 and I have fitted a w55 box . Previously the original 4 speed was in place . Can’t quite see what you have done with the gearbox mount to suit the crossmember . Any suggestions, Awesome build can’t help but say wow . Regards Ben Stellini hey mate, yea the gearbox crossmember was modified, the original gearbox is a side rail type and they are really long, the tail housing is miles long so i had to extend the mount forward to pick up the new gearbox mount position. i cant remember exactly how i did it but it wasn't hard. the mount is very thick steel (like 6 or 8mm thick) as its the lowest part of the car and hits the ground quite a bit. there are some photos of it on page 3 of the build thread. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roman Posted November 12, 2023 Share Posted November 12, 2023 Oil squirters Here's my thoughts - if they werent there, dont go out of your way to fit them. If they are, then sweet. The 3 Banger GR yaris motor has 3 under piston oil squirters per cylinder. And each piston of that motor about the same power as 3 5M pistons, so the maths checks out! 3 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjrstar Posted November 13, 2023 Share Posted November 13, 2023 Oil sqirters on an M series, as I understand it they are specifically installed to wash the coolant off the bores when you get a BHG. 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted January 7 Share Posted January 7 hydraulic lifters- i would think that opening up the feed holes could possibly be a negative thing anyway as they use oil to take up the "slack", if you increase flow, the oil could potentially leak back out of the lifters easier? on old turd pushrod things, at high rpm the lifters can pump up, and hold the valves open. my white car has this problem sometimes. this info may or may not be relevant, but might explain why theres not much oil flow, and not a whole lot of pressure in the oem setup 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sheepers Posted January 7 Share Posted January 7 I'm not really sure how the lifters are supposed to work tbh. I "think" they're supposed to be fully extended at all times and kind of work like a shock absorber? At at fully open the rocker thing only just touches the cam so I don't think it could open a valve? Guess I'll find out....... Also this is the wrong discussion thread. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted January 8 Share Posted January 8 Copy paste from a tech article on V8 lifters, I assume a OHC engine would work on similar principles Hydraulic lifters eliminate the clatter and the need for periodic adjustments by maintaining zero clearance when the engine is running. They do this by using oil pressure against a spring-loaded plunger inside the lifter body. Oil fills the cavity under the plunger when the valve is closed. This pushes the plunger up to take the slack out of the valvetrain and hold it tight. A one-way check valve inside the lifter holds the pressure inside the lifter as the valve opens. Since oil is incompressible, the oil trapped under the plunger prevents the plunger from compressing and the lifter act like a solid lifter to push the valve open. Hydraulic lifters are also kinder on valvetrain components than solid lifters because zero valve lash reduces the hammering effect that occurs when the valves slam shut at higher engine speeds. There’s no air gap to fill so the valve simply follows the cam lobe as it closes for a more gentle landing. This also reduces noise and helps extend the life of the valvetrain components. Under normal driving conditions, there’s no danger of the valves being pushed off their seats or not fully closing when they seat because the valve springs exert more pressure on the valvetrain than oil pressure inside the lifters. But at high engine speeds (say over 6,000 to 6,500 RPM), hydraulic lifters experience some limitations. At high speed, hydraulic lifters may “pump up” and hold the valves open causing the valves to float. This can happen if the valve springs are not strong enough to maintain normal valve control, and the lifters try to take up the slack that really isn’t there. This overextends the plunger and prevents the valve from closing all the way. The same thing can happen if the oil inside the lifter does not bleed down quickly enough between cycles to maintain normal valve lash. Hydraulic lifters can also “pump down” or collapse” at high RPM if they are leaking too much oil pressure internally due to sloppy assembly tolerances. This creates too much lash in the valvetrain, which results in noise and loss of power. Hydraulic lifters are precision fit assemblies. The plunger is closely matched to the housing to provide minimal clearance so the leakdown rate is not too great or too small. That’s why you should never intermix the internal parts when you are cleaning and rebuilding a set of hydraulic lifters. Do each lifter individually so the original assembly tolerances are maintained. One of the key differences between stock production hydraulic lifters and aftermarket performance lifters is that the latter usually have tighter internal tolerances for better oil control. Many performance hydraulic lifters also have better valving that allows them to handle more RPMs than their stock counterparts. A good set of aftermarket performance hydraulic lifters will typically allow an engine to rev 1,000 RPM higher than with stock hydraulic lifters. Some can handle even more RPMs. Even so, most hydraulic lifters can’t match the performance and reliability of solid lifters over 8,000 RPM. That’s why high revving engines in NASCAR, drag cars and circle track cars still use solid lifters. Hydraulic Adjustments Hydraulic lifters still need to be adjusted when they are initially installed so the plunger will operate in its mid-range of travel. If the plunger bottoms out, it may prevent the valve from closing causing a rough running engine and possible valve-to-piston contact. A plunger that is over extended and near its upper range of travel may not be able to maintain zero lash as engine temperature changes. This can increase engine noise, and it may even cause the plunger to hammer against the snap ring causing it to fail. A hydraulic lifter plunger may also become over extended if an engine has sticking valves or excessive wear in the valvetrain. It can only take up so much slack before it runs out of adjustment. 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
440bbm Posted April 8 Share Posted April 8 Surely, you could persuade the side of the sump out a little to give bit more clearance on that pickup fitting. looks like it only needs a 3 -5mm knock with a block of wood when warmed. or are you concerned about it being too thin already and cracking around the flange corner? edite: probably wrong fred also. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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