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low n slows mk1 2door


d.p.n.s

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Borrow that book of Aiden its good as.

I think you want 1 tramp bar, ditch the lowering blocks, and def a panhard rod.

Panhard rod is needed because you are not going to have bugger all clearance between your arches and your tyres/rims. The panhard rod is not only to adjust the diff to centre position but also to hold it there. IMO you should do panhard rod before the anti tramp bar or bars in this particular case.

Then you should ditch the gay lowering blocks, or at least make them as small as poss, and get your leaves reset. Then you can get your car sitting exactly where you want ride height wise before you make your tramp bars to suit. Longer the tramp bars the better job they do I believe.

Gaazzzaaa

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Panhard rod is needed because you are not going to have bugger all clearance between your arches and your tyres/rims. The panhard rod is not only to adjust the diff to centre position but also to hold it there. IMO you should do panhard rod before the anti tramp bar or bars in this particular case.

I would recommend Watts linkage for this, if the tires/rims are going to be as close as it sounds then the first decent bump will see a panhard pushing a wheel into an arch.

And yes blocks are gay, get some van springs and have them reset -vans have heavier rear springs that give imo a better ride than the cars.

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rd229antitrampkit.jpg

One post Timmy visited last night to give advice, Got the price for these for postage to NZ ... 60 ponds :| bugger thats more than the kit itsellf! and since i will only be using half he kit and the diff mounting part will not even fit to the hilux diff i figured i may as well make my own or adapt some. :idea:

EDIT also had a MAD dream last night that i found van leaf springs :lol: was just sitting in office thinking sweet i use them leaf springs ... oh hold on that was a dream ... FUCK

Just gave Village Blacksmith Ltd in Eastbourne a call for a price on resetting the leaves, $250 doesnt seem to bad, and the guy was very helpfull.

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Just gave Village Blacksmith Ltd in Eastbourne a call for a price on resetting the leaves, $250 doesnt seem to bad, and the guy was very helpfull.

bellamy and east do them for 180 down here, try haggle them down haha

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I have a rod that may be of use to you. It already has one rose joint and is threaded for two

Haha awsome how much you want for it? / what it cost ya? :mrgreen: Rose joint would be good then i could have a little adjustment for chris tollerance factor :oops:

Cheers hunted will try a little haggl'n. He said to have the car fully assembeled, fuel in the tank everything and measre if the car has a lean to it then label left n right etc.

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If it fits you can have it. BTW is is alloy with stainless rose joint.

I am too busy to get to the shed ATM so perhaps take a look next week

Yeah right ... oh sweet as auw no rush at all. ment to come visit on wed but was having to much fun on the grinder. ye should come around for a beer some night got a leather couch in the workshop even auw way lush :twisted:

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Someone might like to explain the advantages and disadvantages of rosejoints on a street car. :mrgreen:

Also dont know if alloy bar would be certable? Have to check.

Also adapt a watts linkage from a Falcoon.

Is it possiable to use the hilux leaves? They be very HD.

Gaz

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Is it possiable to use the hilux leaves? They be very HD.

Gaz

They would be way to stiff wouldnt they? Decent shocks im thinking should do the trick :mrgreen:

Will have a poke around next time at pick apart for stuff to adapt for a tramp bar.

Would cert man care as if it fails its not going to do any critical harm?

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Just paint the alloy rust coloured to match the rest of your undersides and you will be sweet.

BTW - it is heavy duty alloy but best take a look first. You can always make a steel one if you can cut a left hand thread.

NOTE: A Watts linkage will not alow you to tune the diff to make it centred to the car. A Panhard rod will give you that tuning ability if you really need it. I reckon neither are required on a leaf spring rear end but I am yet to prove that (watch for my tests at the track with the Watts on and then off later this year).

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on anything less than a racecar a watts linkage with leaf springs is a bit of overkill no? with reset flatter leaves your going to be removing any moment on them and so the the only sideways movement is gonna come through slight spring flex(would be fairly minimal) and bush movement. Id say that a street car with a few track jaunts you wouldnt need to bother. traction is gonna be a bigger issue than slight diff movement :lol:

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Hmmm.

From what I understand. Capri struts are favoured in the UK as you can remove the steering arm and mod it. As you cant weld steering components over here there is no real advantage unless you get a custom cast/machined steering arm.

Also, UK people use capri struts but they are usually 2.8i capri struts with bilstein inserts. Yours are just standard capri.

I think I also read somewhere that the capri struct stub axle has a different stub axle angle which, when bolted into an escort gives a small amount more negetive camber.

Things to check I would say would be:

Body length. Are they both the same length? - Might not matter if you shorten the whole strut.

Insert diameter and avaliability of inserts for reasonable price for your chosen strut.

Outside diameter if you are going to buy a coilover kit instead of making one.

Wheel bearing avaliability if the 2 struts have different stub axle sizes.

You could turn up a spacer to lower the TCA outer pivot point but im not sure if this is certable and if you did do it you would also have to change the steering arms which as said above would be complicated when coming to a cert.

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I went through the last couple of pages quickly and theres some good info there but alot of it still applies to this car and his particular setup. Perhaps getting someone to start a tech thread or something and pulling out the usefull bits of info from here, rather than one of us moving the posts from here?

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