Truenotch Posted December 10, 2014 Author Share Posted December 10, 2014 lol what? Where? No. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Celica RA45 Posted December 10, 2014 Share Posted December 10, 2014 those dry sump pans with pumps are from the formula 3 motors that toyota used to run. they have a 36mm restrictor to hold the engines to 200 hp na and are mostly gen 2 3sge ,that big fat alloy peice is what holds it to the chassis with the hewland at the back 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roman Posted March 19, 2015 Share Posted March 19, 2015 I've gotta come for a mish down to yours and try on some of your wheels and see if any clear my calipers. In other news, giz some pictures of your diff setup / where the trailing arms connect to the body etc? Does your diff have adjustable positions for mounting the 4 links? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Truenotch Posted March 19, 2015 Author Share Posted March 19, 2015 Sounds like a plan to me. If you do it soon you'll have the option of trying 15x8 -0 offset Superlights, 15x8.5 -0 Simmons, 15x9 -13 Simmons and 15x9 -0 fake TE37's . I'll get some pics of the 4 link setup later. The lower body mounts are factory and the top ones are fabricated boxes. As for adjustable positions, it's only got two choices for each arm and I never change them anyway. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Celica RA45 Posted March 25, 2015 Share Posted March 25, 2015 were you racing your self in race 3 there markku ,as it took about 7min before you caught them up Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Truenotch Posted March 25, 2015 Author Share Posted March 25, 2015 That one was a handicap race with a small field. It definitely took a long time to catch up! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xsspeed Posted May 3, 2015 Share Posted May 3, 2015 not bad Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vintage Grumble Posted May 3, 2015 Share Posted May 3, 2015 Would have been better, if done by 4age. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Truenotch Posted May 4, 2015 Author Share Posted May 4, 2015 Another couple of angles: Start this one from 3mins: 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xsspeed Posted May 4, 2015 Share Posted May 4, 2015 hooligans Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stu Posted May 5, 2015 Share Posted May 5, 2015 You applied the perfect amount of mechanical sympathy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Truenotch Posted May 5, 2015 Author Share Posted May 5, 2015 Exactly zero fucks were given during that burnout. That includes my own personal health. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kicker Posted July 5, 2015 Share Posted July 5, 2015 I have used JB Weld to seal a crack in the oil pan on my daily and the intake manifolds on my velo bike, no leaks so far touch wood. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted July 5, 2015 Share Posted July 5, 2015 that floating rear hub deal is pretty neat, is that all custom made stuff? your underseal, looks the same as what I thought was some sort of west auckland fungus that my valiant has got 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Truenotch Posted July 5, 2015 Author Share Posted July 5, 2015 Haha, West Auckland fungus! Closest this car's been is Pukekohe, but I guess it could have caught it from there? Yip, the floating rear is all custom made stuff that was done in the early 90's. It's stood up pretty well! The only annoying thing is that they used imperial bits, so I had to use a worn down 5mm allen key to undo the 3/16" cap screw in the locking collar. Thanks Kicker, I think I'll get some JB weld and will apply elbow degreaser to see if that'll fix my issue. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Celica RA45 Posted July 5, 2015 Share Posted July 5, 2015 clean it up with petrol and use the toyota packing sealant that they use on the sumps to blocks ,just make sure the inside is real clean and smear it all around until dry ,this will stop the leaks,or take it out and get it sealed up with more weld Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Celica RA45 Posted July 5, 2015 Share Posted July 5, 2015 just had a thought ,with all the racing that you have been doing ,i would take it out and get it checked for cracks especially since it was done in the 90s Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Truenotch Posted July 5, 2015 Author Share Posted July 5, 2015 A proper crack test might be on the cards, but it would be nice to avoid that. We've had a go at welding the suspected area over the years and it still seemed to be weepy... Don't really want it breaking though! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xygtho Posted July 5, 2015 Share Posted July 5, 2015 Just an observation - you say the one set of seals takes more of a hammering than the other? Could this have anything to do with the direction of the tracks you race on placing more load on one set of seals than the opposite side? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Truenotch Posted July 5, 2015 Author Share Posted July 5, 2015 That's a good theory, but the bad side (RH) is actually the least loaded on most north island tracks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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