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Truenotch's BEAMS AE86 racecar discussion


Truenotch

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  • 3 months later...
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So so sweet. Sounds awesome, with how quick that ute took off at the start I was surprised you passed him with ease? From a novice POV it look slike when you hook the right gears, you are really quick through and out of the corners (correct me if my noobness is wrong)

Seriously cool though, like ice cold cool

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  • 2 weeks later...

markku you need the air hose that feeds the quads to be 150mm dia for a start ,yours is 2 small ,on the exhaust side im running 2inch make them 800mm long and the secondaries 2and 1/4for 300 mm and then go up to 3 inch for the side pipe with 1 straight through muffler

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and if you can find a celica supra with the Fseries rear end in ,that will help you with better diff ratios and they wont break as much as the T series will

also some taragos had them,

any liteace and town ace vans and try GT ra60 celica before they went IRS

also any toyota car from 1975 that were GT models with 18rg or had a 4m 2.6 in the celica supra

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Thanks Glen. I've had my axles upsized to be the same as F series (modified diff centre) and haven't had crownwheel issues, so that should be all sorted.

Cheers for the input on the intake setup, I used 125mm pipe to start with because I had some in the garage (rush job) and I've been thinking about stepping up to 150mm or doubling up on the hoses to get more air into the box - either that or build an intake passage from aluminium or fibreglass.

New extractors will be in the pipeline soon - I'll be sorting out my tube and bends soon and have measured up a friends set of TRD pipes (same specs as yours I think? 50mm, 55mm, 63mm , taper, 3" exhaust).

Have you seen any difference between side pipe and full length? And have you done dyno comparisons between 45mm and 50mm primaries?

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im playing with 4into 1 s at the moment and also making up tapered throttles

by the way im using a 2 peice tail shaft

toyota does it for any car that revs to 7000 rpm from the ta22 upwards

also its some thing to do frequency and also engine harmonics have a look at this 1 with a beams in it ae86

it has a single tail shaft in it

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Wow, that's a very cool video! I recently had bigger universals added to my single piece, but have been thinking about adding a hanger bearing too... The first section of my driveshaft would end up very short (my driveshaft tube is only 992mm) but it's something I'll be looking into.

I've read about the tube frequencies and KPR suggested going two-piece too - he had vibration issues at high speed at Pukekohe. I've got some vibration in 5th gear (1:1), but I've noticed there's play in the front universal joint which could be either the cause or effect of my vibrations.

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if you wont the std motor to last ,dont overrev it. 8000 is safe for a std motor ,power will drop off at 7600 with quads 2 stage and pipes etc.

but by putting longer rods in and changing rod ratio up to 1.7 piston speed slow s

ps making 204 kws at 9200 rpm on wet sump

also driveline angle can cause vibrations ,thats why 2 peice solves this

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Ahh, good point. I forgot that the angles are a lot more critical with single piece driveshafts.

My limiter is set to 8,000 at the moment and I seem to get the best results when changing at 7500 because my power drops off early (7000) due to the pipes and 2.5" exhaust (I hope). The top end of my power graph looks very similar to the car I copied my pipes from (terrible) so I need to change the pipes!

Those are impressive numbers! Are you still making cams too? I need to start hitting all of my budgets so I can buy more goodies...

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also when you pick that 6speed up can you get me the dipstick and holder .plus bottom timming cover and top cover and top water outlet for me thanks will fix you up for these and postage

have a number of cam profiles now depends on how tight track is etc but i have 1 that is 257at 50 thou with some vvti timming and also has 500thou lift

most of my cams range from 257 up to 263 duration at 50 thou . all still have some vvti std is 3 teeth of movement mine are 1.5 teeth of movement

lift starts from 480 and goes all the way to 575thou of lift

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Yip, I've got those engine parts sorted for you - they'll come down with that gearbox and I'll sort out postage to you.

How much for a set of cams? I think the 257's would be a good profile. Our tracks are reasonably tight and I'd like to keep a bit of mid range.

I assume they'll need valve springs and possibly retainers too?

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and also springs ,but they also need steel valves to run on my valve springs

i just get them hard faced as there is no billets being made unless kelfords have done them yet, i think my cost is 1300 a pair

which is welded up and machined down, normally take 10thou off the base circle

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marku on another subject do you have guys over there that make front screens with demister wires built in.

there is a guy over here in oz that gets front screens made up ,needs a minium of 5 orders thou.

the screens have 2 sections 1 driver and 1 passenger but you can turn them both on.

you can look through the screen and cant see the wires

i bought 2 for my new GTcelica that im restoring

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