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  • 2 weeks later...
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  • 2 months later...

made a start on track car 110.

heres a few pics for those interested in a RB on L series mounts.

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thats the engine with stock RB engine mounts sitting on the L series C110 rubbers but youd get rid of the C110 rubbers and use the RB round dough nut ones with the single bolt and drill a new hole in the C110 cross member for it and sweet as.

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gearbox cross member all bolted up using stock C110 cross member with all the RB gearbox mounting rubbers and so on, the only thing i had to do to make this bolt up was file out the 2 bolt holes in the C110 cross member about 1mm bigger to fit the RB gearbox rubber in.

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how it sits in the car at current. i dont know if you can get the bonnet closed over the cam cover or not but for me the engine is sitting to high anyways as i can lower it about 2 more inchs easily before it will hit the cross member and being its a track car a low cog is best.

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what i spent the last couple of days doing. stripping all the sound deadening and seam sealer from inside the car. little bit more clean up and some stitch welding up some seams and it will be ready for blasting/painting

and here is a show case of all the rust i have cut out so far

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and i chopped the rear tyre well out

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and my tyre well full of all the shit i cut out

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discussion: http://www.oldschool.co.nz/phpbb/viewtopic.php?f=18&t=14130

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  • 1 month later...

All POR15'ed up yo

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and the major bit of rust it had

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thats welded up, POR15'ed, bogged, POR15'ed again and now it looks like that.

windows in tomorrow and hopefully gets paint in the weekend in a lot of places and should look much tidyer.

bring on nats.

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  • 1 year later...

some bits turned up today for the track cars engine.

GTR throttle bodies :D time to fab up a alloy manifold now.

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and i got bored of waiting for my air compressor to keep up with air tools so i brought this big 3 phase bitch with a 100L tank on it.

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thats all for now.

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  • 4 weeks later...

so a little while ago i brought a RB20DE NEO as after a few drunken conversations with Spence we decided it should have better ports for NA as it was about this time that most car manufacturers did this kind of thing. i couldn't find much on the web about them so i just brought one to see what the differences were. after a quick inspection it didn't seem much different. bummer. till today when i pulled it apart.

a series one RB20 port. pretty average.

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and the NEO port. hello valve bases i can see you.

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so it has proven to be a worth while purchase for a base to start with.

so the reason i pulled all the intake manifold off was im looking at building my ITB intake. now the top radiator pipe comes of the intake manifold on RB's and after looking at a few of my earlier RB's where this is all one cast unit it was looking like i was going to have to do some cutting to make my manifold. but the NEO has the water/injector section of the intake manifold separate and this is a picture of it.

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cool so all i need is a flange and i can make my ITB runners but wait what is the vacuum actuator under the manifold and in the ports of this section are these.

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vacuum actuated butterfly's right up by the head. WTF? why would these be there? also the 2 round holes above the port are bypasses to this butterfly and come out the head side like this.

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i thought this was very weird. ive never seen something like this before. can any one shed any light as to why?

i was thinking about ditching the GTR throttles and using that as my throttle butterfly's but then thought it would be much better with the butterfly's much further away from the head as to build up some vacuum in the runners. so what i will probably do is turn up some little alloy bungs and weld them in the bypass holes on the intake manifold side and then port out the head side and remove the butterfly's to make a straight through even port in this section which is sweet as it will mean injectors are already in there and don't have to fuck round with the water circuit. then all i need is a flange and make some intake runners and slap GTR throttles on the other end. any opinions on this idea is welcomed though.

stay tuned.

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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 3 months later...
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so i finished the megasquirt and i have pretty much everything i need to install it except an intake manifold which i hopefully will have some progress on later this week.

started preparing car for paint.

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and typical skyline rust. gotta do the sill on both sides in this point. not a biggie though.

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So GC at work cut up my tube sections today and i got flanges cut a week or 2 back.

Sat it on the bench and looks like so, not bad in terms of lining up, bit of fine tuning and it will be mint.

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starting to look like something, need to put taper into the runners now, i was going to just taper the whole runner so its nice and gradual but dad was like nah just taper it half way so it stays bigger for longer to get max volume in then smashes it into the port or something, i didn't quite follow but then most of his knowledge relates to side draft carbs so im not sure.

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  • 3 weeks later...

so then i cut a taper into some tubes and formed them

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then i got them welded up

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then i made some jigs for the flanges

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then i finished of the jig and shaped the tubes to fit

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back of to my welder now, hopefully get this finished before i leave work, just got some injector bosses to put in it after this weld up.

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 4 months later...

so i was making some slow but good progress on the manifold when i have now hit a rather large problem which i had not noticed before.

started making up the fuel rail and chopped of all the injector bosses and made some wooden dummy injectors that can stay in there when welding this up only to find out when i sat it all on the manifold my middle injectors are a mile away from the runners. shit.

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put my straight edge (fuel rail lol yes i have previously checked it is straight) along the head side of the manifold. and yup the ports are not lined up as they should be.

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excuse the shit photo.

so yeh now im on the look out for an L28 head (what this manifold is made to suit) so i can chop it back up and bolt it to it and get it welded up straight. not sure how this happened as it was bolted very solidly to the manifold i copied for the welding process yet some how its bowed. so unless what i copied was bowed but i cant check that as i have now since sold the manifold. bit of a speed bump but oh well something i have to fix.

still no photos of the car cause who wants to see it until it has paint on it lol

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  • 3 weeks later...

so enlight of my manifold problems i braught this. as i didnt want to take current head of till i rebuild engine. so i got this pretty much to replace the head thats on there when i rebuild the engine as it has much bigger ports and should breath alot better than the shit head on there designed for a single carbed twin choke webber or something.

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and the magical datsun numbers.

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and i have done some other stuff also. POR15'ed my inner sills and welded on the new outer sills.

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so pretty much huge sand up and paint time. too bad i have a boat in the way i need to finish and get rid of first.

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  • 1 month later...
  • 4 weeks later...

got stz back from welder. promptly sat it back together for a photo.

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im slowerly getting there. all going to plan primer will be going on tomorrow now.

dead lines make for awesome progress lol. everything major is done except for painting. its more an assemble the mass of parts i have now.

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