tortron

Tortrons series mm minor of slow

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Have been making steady progress

rear suspension and diff is back in, with a small amount of lowering.

Put in sound deadening over the rear half of the floor, and cut underfelt to suit

Rebuilt starter motor

Painted up the water pump

made up a 1 1/2 stainless exhaust system - just tacked till i get someone to finish it

pulled the sump and timing chain cover (there is now nothing holding my engine in as it kounts via the gearbox and timing cover)

Have fitted a new cork seal to the rear bearing cap, sump gaskets, and new rope oil seal to the sump and timing cover. If this doesnt keep the oil in it looks easy enough to machine the front lips off and fit a modern one piece, and i even have a seal perfect for the rear cap in my seals bin.

Pluses- this engine is incredibly clean inside, the bearings are all in excellent condition and dont appear to be over sized.

Iv been slack and havnt got any flywheel bolts yet so cant put it all back together yet.

My shelf of parts is looking empty, and the only bits left to buy are the odd nut, bolt and washer

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Engine is back togeter

sump fitted

lightened flywheel installed

new (the best of my spares) clutch and pressure plates fitted

Busted springs in gearbox replaced

gearbox fitted to engine

crossmember in place but yet to be bolted to the car

And waterpump and refurbed starter installed.

Also made up a heater bypass hose which looks pretty good

First time i have done a clutch (in a car at least) so ever the pesimist i expect the car to shake itself to bits.

In anycase this car hasnt had a functional starter motor or clutch that works properly since i have owned it

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In direct violation of this websites rules - i have fitted bump stops to the front (never had any, the rubbers had fallen iff the plates. Wof man never noticed i guess)

have drilled and tapped the blank on the timing cover. Moving the generator adjustment further out to clear the new rad to pump hose.

Rebuilt generator and reamed out the mounting bracket to take a length of 10mm threaded rod. This should stop the generator falling off. Need to go sort out some bends for the extractors tomorrow. Will also rebuild the distributor and run new leads these days off

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How she sits today

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everything but the intake and exhaust is back on the engine

have bodged together a radiator hose. An original would have been brass, im going to change this one for a cut up a series lower hose and a copper right angle bend as this is what others are using.

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have rebuilt the distributor. Can only get new top entry caps so am keeping the old one. Have replaced a few internal screws with "correct" ones because i dont like the old ones not matching. All bushes were in good order. Removed the old leads and installed new cloth covered copper multistrand ones. I fired up the gas torch and soldered everything together

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Added a few details.

Soldered brass lugs, number punched to the corresponding plug

brass cooling fins - because they are neat

and wingnuts to hold it together.

Cheers and apoligies for phone pictures

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aquaplane.jpg

turns out that a ford 100e and a sidevalve morris minor have identical port spacings (and a few other things im betting. Want to compare head gaskets at some stage)

.

So i got a brand spankers new 100e aquaplane twin carb manifold, and a set of 1 1/4 inch SU's from a 948 mini

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several modifications are required to make the manifold fit. First off the ford has 1" round ports and the minor has 1" square ports - there is enough meat in the flange side to square it out.

Second, the fins foul on the thermostat bulge on the head (not an issue if you have an early nothermostat head, or have an alloy head)

So these need to be removed quite aggressively to fit. A couple of inches long and down to the body on the first and second fin, then a small amount on the 3rd

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Finished modifications to the manifold. Made up the throttle and choke linkages, just happened to have some scrap rod of the correct diameter. Needed to be about an inch wider than that of a mini. Have also put on some heatshields that came with the carbs.

I can use the fuel line that came with the carbs. Choke cable slots right into place and the throttle cable bracket can be used if shortened.

Too easy. Will block off the vacuum take off and make up a bracket for the return springs

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Made up a bracket for the throttle return springs

put the missing bits of front suspension back on

finished running the brake lines, reassembled and installed the master cylinder

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Waiting on a bunch of parts to finish this thin.

So i lowered the front

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about 3cm clearance at the upper bump stop

Compare to original pics for height difference.

Too low tbh haha, my jack only just gets under the chassis rail. Slightly nose down so will use the vernier adjustment to even it up

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Currently exiting just after the front wheel. Need to now get some tube and a couple of bends for the secondaries, a set of flanges, and maybe a muffler. Also some gas for the welder

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old vs new (on the original i had replaced the old.muffler with a flexypipe and a free flow resonator)

new is a equal/similar length "tuned" to about 42" because i read someplace that that is the ideal length for this engine (also it just worked out close to that) 1" primaries into 1 1/4" secondaries then a flanged joint. Flexy to the 1 1/2" stainless exhaust with a coby resonator tucked up in the rear between the fuel tank and suspension (no room in original spot now for a muffler, and again this was a period mod in the 60s)

have a few bits to tidy up and will have to see how gasproof my welding is. Will have about 40 or so cm more exhaust after the resonator and a stainless down turned tip.

I also cut up a exhaust gasket. But it promptly got lost, hope to have it running by the end of the month

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Done these things

 

Made wooden battery tray/box.  battery is held in place with a pair of leather belts/straps, wood is shellacked

installed carpets

repaired and recovered headliner panels (3xplyboard panels)  in black vinyl.  have fitted the two outside ones, middle one is proving to be difficult, might leave it a few days and see if its settled.

soldered up a right angled copper adapter/reducer for my lower radiator hose.

 

procrastinating getting it going by working on the interior  :thumbleft:

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Finished fitting roof liner. The bit that goes under the rear window is too damaged to be of any real use and looks terrible. Will at some point make a new one twice as big as the original, and fit speakers in there i reckon. Picked up some boxed speakers but they are too big and look silly, will casually look for something very small and easy to hide, speakers can sit on the front parcel tray or under the seats for now.

Went looking for an oil filter, was hoping a morry 1000 one was in stock. They are smaller than the one i need but still do the job. Lo and behold ryco now has 2 listings gor a sidevalve minor! They didnt 3 years ago. So i brought one and installed it in my AC filter unit, a slight upgrade over the purolator unit as it has a bypass.

Made up all the battery, earth and starter cables using 00 gauge cable. Goddam its amazing how fast the starter spins. (my original earth cable turned to dust as i was measuring it!). I moved the earth cable to the lip of where the armstrong shock bolts too, better than the thin tin of the battery box i reckon, ran an earth from the engine near the starter there too (mine never has one, it probably was forgotten at the last engine change.

Oh, and i have the old girl running :D just on the original carb and manifold for now. But now its roughly set up i can set up the carbs knowing it "should" run once they are right. Wish i could say she started first pop but a little encouragement was needed. Probably due to the new bits figuring themselves out.

Not too bad, i dont think the engine has been run in 3 years

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th_video-2013-11-16-16-10-26.jpg

i have probably just failed to add a video.

But

I heard you boys like more doort!

Twin carbs sucking away, wheel exit extractors, dirty old sidevalve

fired right up once i restricted the flow a little. That filter came with the carbs, its fugly. Its a real shame one of my period correct pancake filters was stolen as i doubt il find a matching pair. So im going to make an oblong type filter box, low profile is needed to miss the passenger shock.

Very pleased with myself

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Still going on this

-Wired in electric fan with adjustable control switch

-Installed secondary fusebox for extras im adding

-Rewired my indicators and the original wiring was yuck

-Put all the wires going to/from the control box back in the right places (most had been moved around - had to strip some of the fabric loom wrap to see the real colour of the wires, all of them are bleached yellow with age,  wow, they had some psychedelic wire colours in the 50's)

-Swapped out fuel gauge for one that works

-Wrapped extractors - trying to keep the heat away from the carbs

-Welded up my broken passenger seat (has been held together with kneadit since iv owned the car  :thumbleft: cool one wof men)

-Bolted in one of the seats, lost the bolts for the other

 

i think there is more, but its all piddly little stuff.  At least all my electrics, steering, and suspension is finished - theres very little left on a morry after that

 

To do

re-wrap loom with black cloth loom tape, to make the horrible old one look nicer and absorb my new wires - really needs a new loom, time hasnt been kind to the original.

cut to length and weld on exhaust tip

rebleed brakes - i dont see any visible leaks, so there is probably air in there still

attach steering column

paint instrument panel and put it back on

get bolts for grill panel (miffed at the new chrome hockey sticks i got, the holes in them dont match the supplied studs)

bolts for drivers seat

road tune

 

thats bugger all really isnt it :-)

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P1070113.jpg

 

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MMMmm dusty

 

needs wide wheels now

 

roof doesnt even come up to the trucks bonnet

haha

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old speedo vs new speedo

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same tpm and body, so direct bolt in replacement

Trip meter upgrade to luxury spec

out of the same car i got my amps and water temp gauge (dont remember what it was but im thinking Riley.  Had a fold down walnut tray table for the back seats, so not your standard pleb driver car)

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Brakes appear to be sorted.

Recap of brake work that i have done

 

master cylinder re-sleeved in stainless and rekitted

wheel cyclinders (total of 6) re-sleeved in stainless and rekitted

new pedal fork and piston/rod

new hardlines and fittings all round

new rubber lines (3 total)

new handbrake cables

new shoes (match my drums perfectly, which is a nice surprise)

new rubber on the pedal

 

thought i was having issues with the rear shoes binding on the adjuster, but it looks like its just the adjusters themselves being difficult (flathead screwdriver keeps slipping out, my larger screwdrivers are too wide to fit though the hole.  Eventually found one that fits but its stubby.  Got it to work by taking off the wheel and using a set of locking pliers on the screwdriver for extra torque.

 

can lock all the wheels (car on stands, assistant stepping on brake, me wrestling with each wheel) with pedal and handbrake.  So im hoping after a bit of bedding in, and a final adjustment i will be done with this part of the build 

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Car seems to stop ok while driving to the end of the driveway and back

gave a quick tune by ear, engine is purring and exhaust is aggressive, which just doesnt feel right coming from my little 900cc minor

 

Went to work on the instrument panel

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have all the gauges mounted and working (just need some longer bolts for the water temp one, is crooked in the pic)

will install a second pair of back lights at the bottom of the cluster

will drill a hole for the trip meter reset thing

will sand and paint the cover and reinstall chrome rings.

 

need to adjust the clutch to my liking/get used to the light flywheel 

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