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re-registering a vehicle


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Yes it's for the dodge.

The bloke we're getting it off bought it off his neighbour as a farm truck in 1970 for $50. 

The only chance we have of finding proof it's been on the road before is from the sign writing on the door. That firm was around for a very long time, and a guy is going to ask that family if theres any old photos which show it with plates.  (They would have owned it in the 1950s most likely)

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It was me who went down the CA03 route. That is the official way to do it. But I would advise finding someone who knows the system and has done it before to help you. Maybe you can find a good VTNZ place that can do it.

When I tried it myself it was a disaster. Micky Mouse AF describes it perfectly. You need something from the Police to say it's not stolen. Or rather they have no interest in it. You used to be able to go to a Police Station and ask them and they'd print something out to say that. They won't do that now. The only way I found to get around that was do an OIA request to ask them. Even the people at the Police stations I talked to thought that was ridiculous.

You also need proof of ownership, so a sales receipt is good. And you need a statutory declaration you do own the car. Any JP can give you that.

And you need the chassis number verified by an agent, i.e. VTNZ (there are others too but don't have the list handy). They will simply look at it and give you a letter saying they verified physically the chassis number.

It can also help (apparently it can help but no one can tell me how) to have what's called a DOMAS from the Vintage Car club which is them stating the car is really a 19XX whatever. They will come inspect it. Often the person inspecting it will know less about it than the person who built it! Only you can't get that until the car is complete so I am not sure how much help it is in any case.

In the end, and this is after months and months of back and forth they came back to me and said mine was a Scratch Built Historic Vehicle (it's an Austin 7 with a new body) so I need to go that route. As I have another vehicle, of far higher value, also needing to go LVVTA Scratch built I am not sure it's going to be worth doing the Austin 7 but will see what the certifier says (hopefully talking to him this week). The VCC says the average cost for fully certing a vintage scratch built is between $5-6k.

NZTA actually waived the $184 fee since it had all taken so long and was such a cock up.

Simon

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The VCC in their latest magazine have a story about someone trying to compliance a Model T via what they call 'an orange building' and giving up and in the end going to a 'seasoned, old guy' doing compliancing. The short article finishes up commenting it not what you know but who you know.

Pity it doesn't say who the who is! 

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Am booked for my first meeting with my certifier to see my Riley for the first time on Thursday. We are approaching it as a Scratch-Built Historic Replica build. To be classed as that you need it verified by the VCC who give it a classification (C5 in this case) and issue a VIC card but they won't do that until the car is basically finished. Of course the certifier is wanting to see it being built. I have asked the VCC to clarify this is actually the process but they haven't replied yet.

The certifier is happy to proceed but warns that I have to be sure it will be possible to get the VCC classification or else it could be a lot of time and money wasted. It should be fine as it is historically accurate and period correct but having to build the whole car before knowing if you can get it through seems a weird way to do things. It seems all or nothing, no provisional approvals or process to follow.

For the LVVTA part it seems it is quite a different process for scratch built vs modified production then different again for a historic replica which is basically a scratch built copy of an existing car type but with period correct parts. 

Should be interesting whatever happens. I will finish building the car regardless. Anyone know anything about ash framed coachwork? My knowledge of timber is not much more than knowing you can't weld it (but I am learning)!

Simon

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Good luck on your quest. Hope it all goes well. Scary that its all or nothing. But gotta pay the cost to be the boss eh?

@Nominal is our resident wooden car enthusiast. He may know a thing or two or who might know a thing or two.

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12 minutes ago, VintageSpecial said:

 

Should be interesting whatever happens. I will finish building the car regardless. Anyone know anything about ash framed coachwork? My knowledge of timber is not much more than knowing you can't weld it (but I am learning)!

Simon

Don't let it get rotten?

I had some work done on the ash framing on my Morris Minor Traveller by Neville Rhodes in Marton.

rhodescabinetmaker.com | Furniture Restoration | Marton | New Zealand

He does quite a bit of car work I understand. I was really happy with the work done. The queue was long though :)

 

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Thanks, I shall look him up. I have a friend who is a cabinet maker who has also made a frame like I need and he has been most helpful. The people who do it as a business generally offer to do it for me. As well as a lost art it's always been a somewhat secret art and often people doing it for a living understandably don't want to give up their secrets!

Simon

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Been to see the certifier. Went very well. He suggested a few things such as redoing the brake pedal to meet the standards but nothing that's hard to do. Belts in it should be fine as there is an easy mounting point available and some pointers about the fuel tank and it being in a safe position, i.e. inside the bounds of the steel chassis and not sitting in the timber/aluminium only tail! But all of those are easilably doable. So all good now to start on the framing/body. That's a big relief.

Simon

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Does anyone have experience of lap belts and what's allowed to be used? I need to fit them to my Riley. That's no problem as there are mounting points easily available. But as it is a period car I want something that doesn't look too out of period. Anything will to some degree obviously but something like race style latch and link belts look far more appropriate than modern plastic ones.

It looks like as long as they meet one of a number of the standard mentioned in the manual it is fine? Can I use something like these: https://www.wescoperformance.com/3lapbelwansl.html

They do say they meet FMVSS 209 which is one of the standards in the manual: SFI 16.1 Safety Spec, Made in the USA as well as Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standards (FMVSS) #209 Approved

I haven't found anyone in NZ who sells them yet but people like Summit racing do and will ship to NZ no problem. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/rjs-15001901#overview

I think those are the same. I guess they must say on the belt what specs they meet to be allowed.

Simon

 

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On 12/05/2022 at 09:18, VintageSpecial said:

Does anyone have experience of lap belts and what's allowed to be used? I need to fit them to my Riley. That's no problem as there are mounting points easily available. But as it is a period car I want something that doesn't look too out of period. Anything will to some degree obviously but something like race style latch and link belts look far more appropriate than modern plastic ones.

It looks like as long as they meet one of a number of the standard mentioned in the manual it is fine? Can I use something like these: https://www.wescoperformance.com/3lapbelwansl.html

They do say they meet FMVSS 209 which is one of the standards in the manual: SFI 16.1 Safety Spec, Made in the USA as well as Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standards (FMVSS) #209 Approved

I haven't found anyone in NZ who sells them yet but people like Summit racing do and will ship to NZ no problem. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/rjs-15001901#overview

I think those are the same. I guess they must say on the belt what specs they meet to be allowed.

Simon

 

I bought belts with lift up chrome latches from Seatbeltsplus in the US. No problem with certification and USD20 each per lap belt.

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