Popular Post ThePog Posted January 25 Author Popular Post Posted January 25 Went out in the old bitch on Friday, and coming home up my road things felt a little weird and draggy. When I got home and checked it I could see smoke coming off the passenger rear... It was basically locked on, but came free when it all cooled down. Naturally it has a weird screw self adjustor thing for the handbrake and this had gone wrong I was certain. Today I pulled the caliper off for a look and found out that of the 4x stacked belleville washers that are part of the handbrake pusher/adjustment 2x had cracked, so this is probably it. While thinking about this issue I had found a really nice writup about rebuilding the rears and it had some useful advice. But it also showed 6x bellevilles, whereas mine had 4x and a flat washer. I needed at least 2 more, then remembered I had the spare calipers I pulled off the green meanie. So I grabbed those and dismantled them and found 6 stacked in each. While at it I saw the pistons were in way better condition that those in mine so I swapped those too. Its all back together (with 6x washers) and waiting on someone to help me bleed them tomorrow, but I also noticed the hoses on the spares were basically brand new so I might swap those in case one of the old ones on the car are collapsed. Assuming I can get the hard line nuts off without fucking them, always fraught. 15 Quote
Popular Post ThePog Posted January 25 Author Popular Post Posted January 25 Yea na Edit; Some faffing today. The magnificent and extremely comely @Willdat? came around to talk shit etc and help me bleed the boy. It was clear something else was up as that right rear was giving a stiff pedal when bleeding, and the caliper was not releasing, so we decided to swap the flexi over. Will went and grabbed a 10 litre of brake fluid as we were getting through a lot during the process. In the meantime I got the old flexi off with the help of an angle grinder, this wasnt pleasing and the nut still got fucked a bit. That pic ^ shows the total lack of hole through the pipe that was clearly the actual issue. We then bled it all again and somehow I forgot to top up the reservoir so we had to do it all again We went for a test drive but it was pulling to the left, so we bled the right front again but no air came out. I theorised that the right hand flexi was probably just as bad as the left so I swapped that one as well, sure enough that was mostly blocked too. Will had left in frustration at my ineptitude by then so I rounded up a child to help me bleed it again, and all seems well now. In hindsight (the best kind of sight), I had noted to myself earlier that the front brakes were doing a lot of work, and the backs not so much as they had very little wear showing. It is now obvious that the rears were basically doing nothing because of the blocked flexis. After the last test drive you can already see more of the disc is contacting the pads. So the the lesson for today is always buy twice as much brake fluid as you think you need, and to totally pay attention to the blindingly obvious information presented to you on a plate. 18 4 Quote
Popular Post ThePog Posted February 4 Author Popular Post Posted February 4 The roof off the green meanie was sitting there looking at me sadly, it was pretty rough so I sanded it back and spaffed some blue onto it to see what the old girl looked like with blue instead of the black, not bad I think. Also I decided after looking at the landed prices for ally radiators out of the states, and deciding that the $150 AliX jobbies probably were not up to much I told my man to go ahead with a recore on the ex green meanie spare rad. I grabbed the frames while it was apart and replaced all the threaded bits, so it's like brand new now. I might chuck that in this weekend but not before testing the sensor.... 22 Quote
Popular Post ThePog Posted February 5 Author Popular Post Posted February 5 Also I always forget how incredibly tiny this is, then I park next to a normal sized car 14 1 3 Quote
Popular Post ThePog Posted February 9 Author Popular Post Posted February 9 Righto. I decided to chuck that radiator in today, easy as. I started swapping things over from one rad to the other then thought I had better check that the thermoswitch worked ok, and it turns out the answer is no. Thats a bit odd thinks I (the inevitable start of a new learning experience). So I looked at the wiring diagrams to see if I had misunderstood how that shit works and noticed that the thermoswitch worked as expected but was wired to the signal side of a relay, which was not what I expected. So now I began to understand some things, mostly that assumption makes a fuckwit out of just me. So what has happened is that when I did the rewire I assumed that the wires coming out of the thermoswitch took current because they were fat, but actually the fan probably worked once or twice and then the switch burnt out. So that one time it got hot sitting in traffic without the fan coming on probably blew the head gasket, leading to all that other fuckery of the last few weeks. Cool. Or not probably. So this time I put a second fan so I could manually switch it and then spent the rest of today creating and installing an entire new bit of loom that should solve that completely, one fan on the themoswitch, one on a manual switch. And all run through relays, natch. So hopefully that is the only fuckup on the wiring... It was kindof a costly one really. /facepalm 14 Quote
Popular Post ThePog Posted February 22 Author Popular Post Posted February 22 The fucking things are proliferating Elliots beast is running significantly worse than a bag of dicks, probably to do with the shitty OE points distributor. So I just put an electric fuel pump and some random points replacement system that he sourced, I just finished that up and it runs mint now. Driving the two is interesting and really highlights the difference in livelyness, mostly that mine has a way, way fatter mid range as well as more top end. But the standard car is still a good time, you just would need more gearbox use to keep it in the top end. In blue boy news, the new rad is working well, and apart from the indicator light in the dash needing a jiggle to get working again, all seems solid. Certainly solid enough to annoy the citizens of Nelson with dodgy cut in/passing maneuvers at full noise and a staggeringly unnecessary amount of popping and banging on the overrun. 100% mint then. Except for the dripping gearbox plug 23 Quote
Popular Post ThePog Posted May 20 Author Popular Post Posted May 20 Another clean sheet wof, what a wee gem. The only non critical issues are a slow leak from the passenger front tyre and the gearbox plug leak, both of which will get sorted at some point. I might even have another go at that 'good' gearbox to see if I just didnt fuck it up, although any future box changes wont get the $200 Redline MTL again, just bog standard slippy shit I reckon. Other than that it just goes like a stroppy, rowdy and unruly bitch, perfect. 20 1 Quote
Popular Post ThePog Posted June 8 Author Popular Post Posted June 8 I got the tyre with the slow leak sorted (which was a valve), then though I would have a look at the front struts. These have a flat hardened steel washer running on a fiber type bush to provide the steering swivelling action, and these clag up and stop spinning freely. I thought the steering was a wee bit heavier at slow speeds than I though it should be, although some of this is the wider rubber I have on. Anyway it was probably time. I borrowed a set of spring compressors off @Willdat? to make the process a wee bit safer.. what a good man he is. While unbolting the passenger strut and moving the wheel position to get bolt access the drivers side strut was making some funny noises..... and so it turned out that the bearings were so clagged that the bit actually turning was the rubber in the top bush. I dismantled the tops, cleaned and greased the swivel and bolted things back together, hopefully improving that situation. I did have to make a tool to grab the top of the damper to be able to unscrew the retaining nut. It kindof looked like the nut was bottoming out on the damper thread which meant that the rubber probably wasnt getting as well clamped as it wanted, so I replaced the spacer in there with slightly longer bits I found in my box of bits, atho first I tried stacking washers, which didnt work. My special tool So thats all back together, but you can get a proper flat needle roller bearing to replace the fiber bit, so I might order a set of those as one of the fiber boys was looking a bit sorry... Then it was time to address the gearbox leak, so I drove to Repco to warm the oil and buy some replacement 80/90 non EP gear oil. I pulled the drain plug and modded it a bit to take an O ring rather than a flat copper washer. I did this by welding on a sleeve to create the crush stop and retain the Oring, hopefully this might work a bit better. The thicker oil will probably help too. I topped up the box and called it a day.. 23 1 Quote
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