Jump to content

shavenYak's alto 800


Goat

Recommended Posts

5630c9cba2234d039911941.png

Need a polish but would look so lol/awes with some tiny tyres and slam. Has a full set of advan centre caps but I might hang on to them if you want the wheels.

they do look sweet - can't really afford anything atm though. I'll run my existing ones for a while, then I'm quite keen to chuck on some 12" Contessas that I have lying around. And then I also have some streetfins that are begging to be tidied up...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 98
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Those wheels painted white have transformed my opinion of them wheels - FUCK YES!!!

DSCF0447Medium.jpg

As for bleeding the brakes - some quick tips for post brake work problem finding.

1 - make sure the callipers are on the right way round - ie the bleed nipples are at the TOP

2 - adjust the rear brakes up properly

3 - no leaks and all pipe nuts are tight

4 - no kinks in the hoses or pipes

5 - using a bottle quarter filled with brake fluid (and the end of the hose submerged in the fluid) grab someone you can trust to listen

6 - attach the bottle to the nipple wheel furtherest away from the master cylinder (normally the LR)

7 - crack the nipple open a full turn and get your trusty sidekick to pump the brakes at a speed of around 1 steady pump (up and down) every 2 seconds until the bubbles stop mafipulating through the fluid in the bottle. (top up the fluid in the master cylinder regularly - DO NOT let it run dry EVER)

8 - get them to pump 3-5 more times after the bubbles stop (carry on from stage 7 if the bubbles reappear during those 3 - 5 pumps)

9 - lock off the nipple and move to the opposite side on the rear

10 - repeat from step 7 and move to the front wheels and finishing on the wheel closest to the master cylinder

You should have good brakes after this..

Key points is to make sure the callipers are the right way round (nipple TOP) and to make sure the rear brakes are adjusted correctly..

BTW - nice job on the slam - looks grouse!!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

As for bleeding the brakes - some quick tips for post brake work problem finding.

1 - make sure the callipers are on the right way round - ie the bleed nipples are at the TOP

2 - adjust the rear brakes up properly

3 - no leaks and all pipe nuts are tight

4 - no kinks in the hoses or pipes

5 - using a bottle quarter filled with brake fluid (and the end of the hose submerged in the fluid) grab someone you can trust to listen

6 - attach the bottle to the nipple wheel furtherest away from the master cylinder (normally the LR)

7 - get them to pump the brakes at a speed of around 1 steady pump (up and down) every 2 seconds until the bubbles stop mafipulating through the fluid in the bottle. (top up the fluid in the master cylinder regularly - DO NOT let it run dry EVER)

8 - get them to pump 3-5 more times

9 - lock off that nipple and move to the opposite side on the rear

10 - repeat from step 7 and move to the front wheels and finishing on the wheel closest to the master cylinder

Did all the above yesterday, EXCEPT - I think I started with the front closest to the MC. What to do now? There is definately air in there somewhere, but I'm not getting any bubbles.. Should I just keep going and hope for the best?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Recheck the rear brakes are adjusted - its the most common cause for a bad brake pedal.

Quite often after a drive the rear brakes settle and recentralize, necessitating a bit of adjustment again..

But if that doesn't work - bleed them again. How much brake fluid have you used?

Note - I would expect to use at least a litre of fluid to bleed a system from dry..

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Bled again using the rest of the brake fluid. Didn't see any bubbles, braking still kinda meh - but might just roll like that for a while.

Not sure if I bedded in the new pads properly. Took it for a fang as soon as I put them in, but tried to avoid braking too heavily - maybe I should have done the whole bedding procedure properly..

Anyway brakes aren't as important as looking awesome, and for that we will need....

DSCF0454Medium.jpg

DSCF0456Medium.jpg

offset is +19, so they stick out a bit. Will clean them up and get some tires on them, then check fitment.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Oh you have new pads in there - they will take 10 - 15 Km of moderate to heavy (but not repeatedly heavy application) to bed in. The brakes will generally feel like poos till pads have bed in..

Oh sweet as then, should come right in time for Gymkhana then.

Changed clutch and pressure plate to slightly nicer looking used items, and now there's a nasty howling during engine braking, and also slightly when lifting clutch from stand still. Any ideas?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Easiest way to paint is to use tape to cover the faces, the real thin clear stuff.

Then use a new craft knife to cut the excess off and you are left with a perfect masked face.

Then spray, peel off tape etc.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Mate I would run some super skinny tyres like 155/55 R13 or whatever your rim diameter is, and then put a bend in the middle or at each end of your beam axle to induce some phat camber. How cool would an Alto with super hellafrush fitting wheels be?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...