shavenYak Posted December 4, 2007 Share Posted December 4, 2007 Hi! Welcome to the new condensed project thread for my my Suzuki SS80. Discussion thread here: https://oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/22630-shavenyaks-alto-800/#comment-578466 1983 Suzuki SS80C 3 Door F8B 3-cylinder 796cc SOHC Mikuni DIDS 2430 single carb Struts / disc up front, leaf / drum in rear 630kg curb weight 3,295 x 1,405 x 1,335 mm Turning radium 4.4m (less if handbrake used) Red Now here's some historical photos and ramblings from the last five years I've owned this fine vehicle: ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ painted my rocker cover with some vht wrinkle paint. While the car was parked in the parking basement below our apartment someone broke in through the passenger door. The lock was already well stuffed but now its way worse and some of the panel is munted. see below. I finally did something about it: Installed Jaycar central locking. So deluxe. Also got some 'Forever Black' brought back from SuperCheap in Aussie, and did my bumpers and dash: Looks 1000% better (dash was faded to a light gray before). Forever Black is mean, but after using it I reckon that it's actually exactly the same as the black dye you can get for business shoes to make them black again. But I'm very happy with the result, and it's supposed to last for ages. (Forever?) Anyway the car has been getting really hard to start lately, I've had to push start it every morning for the last month or so, and quite often again in the afternoon after work. I checked the points, leads and sparkplugs are they were all good. Quite often after cranking the starter for a while it would fire up as soon as the starter stopped cranking. The coil is a 6volt model with a ballast resistor, and after looking at it for a while and doing some internetting, I realised that there should be a resistor bypass circuit so when the starter is cranking, the current for the coil doesn't go through the resistor and drop to a stupidly low voltage. So I read through my handy workshop manual which mentioned that only the European market SS80's got a coil resistor bypass added to the starter (because of colder weather or emissions laws maybe?) but the feature was added to all SS80's in later models. (this was added literally the MONTH after mine was made). So I tried a couple of things, one was to pull a wire from the positive terminal from the starter directly to the positive terminal on the coil. This didn't work. the car cranked really well and seemed to want to fire up straight away, but as soon as the starter stopped, the car died. So instead I just ran two wires from each side of the ballast resistor, and connected a little momentary foot switch in the cabin. I step on this when I crank, bypassing the resistor and giving the coil all available power. It works so good! Fires up first time every time! Very simple solution, but it took me all day to think of it and I now feel very happy with myself. (no more push starting) worked out later that it was the resistor that was playing up, and have sinced swapped both coil and resistor. Removed the foot switch and has been fine since. Got a spare cam reground: Old cam was: Advertised duration @.004 lifter rise: 255-260 degrees Duration @ .050” lifter rise: 185-190 degrees Cam lift: .198” New cam specs are: Advertised duration @.004 lifter rise: 282 degrees Duration @ .050” lifter rise: 205 degrees Cam lift: .254” I have had a dash cluster from a Subaru Justy. Once the actual tacho was out of the cluster, it was just a matter of identifying each of the three terminals on the back and hooking it up! I taped it to my ashtray for the time being, but I want to build some sort of box for it at some point. In this photo you can also see the panel I made to cover the hideous cutout that had been made when the stock radio was replaced. It's got three switches, two control my two small sony 2ch amps, and the third powers the tacho. the tacho switch is kinda pointless, but the amp switches are there because the car does not have an ACC circuit, just OFF and ON So with the switches on I can still listen to the stereo without the ignition being on. The second amp is powering a pair of 70's Akai speakers that I mounted under the dash: They are about 30wRMS and 4ohm, the metal casing is mega thick and really heavy and they sound fantastic. Got a sweet sump guard from an Isuzu Bighorn - the mounting holes even lined up almost perfectly with the sway bar shackle mounts. Pretty happy with that. on way back from Ruapehu: and of course the photo-in-container-yard photo. love it. Bought home some parts off a newer model Alto - namely some struts and the front swaybar, which is a lot meatier than mine. overall length is the same, but unfortunately doesn't clear the subframe on one side. grr. Can't use it. I've had a nice dash sitting around for a while that I only just put in - It's in really good shape, and doesn't have the stereo panel hacked out. I've never had a roof lining in the car since I've owned it, so every time you shut the door it sounds like kicking a big empty steel barrel or something. I had a plan in the past of putting green astro-turf up there, but it was put in the too hard / cbf basket a while back and that idea's since been canned. But the other weekend I put this in instead: They're bostik sound deadening sheets, so pretty heavy - will be interesting to see if they stay stuck once summer rolls around. Probably overkill, but was nice and easy to put up. For now I'm stoked. Looks good, sounds good, and smells like a freshly tarred road. mmm. The other thing to happen was just the other day I found these red wheels that are just like the white ones I still haven't done anything with, except they've got tires, the paint's in reasonable nick and theyre not multi-stud. So I put them on! They've got 175-60 13's on which are quite a change from the 145-70 12 I had before. Quite a bit more traction in the corners which has gotta be good! No scrubbing except at full lock where it's only really rubbing the rubber splash guard anyway. And I'm sure this is what we all want to happen next: might not actually chop the dog quite that far though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shavenYak Posted April 4, 2011 Author Share Posted April 4, 2011 Time to update the thread I think - It's been quite a while, but I haven't really done much to the car except drive it every day. One major thing to happen was leaving Auckland and moving to Palmerston North. This means we now live in a pretty sweet house that has an even sweeter garage. So for the first time I can park both my cars indoors, and have space to work / store my crap. Installed some sweet fluoros so I can work at night. Makes a nice chance from the tiny shed and carport combo I've had for the last few years. But anyway, the car! I had to stop using the alloys, since the Suzuki has 10mm wheel studs, which meant that the factory wheel nuts were too small for the rims and would gouge into the alloy, and it's hard to find aftermarket nuts to suit a 10mm stud. So since it was time to do the wheel bearings anyway I decided to swap the wheel studs out for bigger, standard 12mm ones. I didn't take any photos of the procedure but basically just knocked out the old studs, re-drilled the holes and whacked in the new ones (second hand honda ones). Used a bottle jack and some chains to press the wheel bearings back in. Worked like a charm! Tried a couple of spring replacements for the front struts: First some Honda Jazz rear springs. BZZZT! Then the starlet rear springs: Great success! Old struts: Shiny struts: Also modified the brake hose bracket since they're such a fucking annoying design that means you have to undo the brake pipe from the hose if you want to remove the strut. Old: New: End result: There's probably a coil or two that I can chop off and they'd still be captive, but first I'll work on dropping the rear end down as well. Got some blocks, just need to buy some u-bolts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shavenYak Posted April 15, 2011 Author Share Posted April 15, 2011 PROGRESS! Then I got bored and decided to pull the engine out for a quick spruce up and to swap the gearbox out for a later model one. Used a tie down ratchet to lift it out. Getting it down was tricky. Made me a sweet trolley: And a quick blast of the Karcher later: This came out of my gearbox. Don't think it should be that colour eh? And here's a quick glimpse into the future: G10 Turbo Carb... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shavenYak Posted May 1, 2011 Author Share Posted May 1, 2011 So I swapped out the old gearbox for a later model one. The old one had a leak from the selector seal, and was just generally old, sloppy and whiny. I had to swap the speedo cable over, but otherwise everything bolted in. Gear selector is much more tight and there's no whine in any of the gears. Feels good man. Unfortunately after I filled it with oil and went to bed for the night, the right driveshaft seal decided to leak and the next morning there was a liter of oil on the floor. No one seemed to stock a replacement seal for the box - Suzuki wanted $80 ex japan, which is too much and also wouldn't get it in time for nats. None of the seal/bearing places had a replacement, apparently it was a bit odd and seals both ways or something. But I ended up getting a standard rotary oil seal from SKF, so hopefully it will be all good. Old on the left, new on the right: Installed it today - seems to be holding the oil in ok! Might not last for as long as an genuine one, but it was only $10. While the car was off the road I thought I'd give the brakes an overhaul. Pistons were kinda pitted but not TOO bad I think. Kinda planning on upgrading brakes later so don't want to invest too much in these. ... Except I will shell out for a can of gold Hammerite. (PRIORITIES, PEOPLE!) 24 CARROTZ BITCHES Also spraybombed the rims: And finally, a shot of my impeccable workshop safety practices: So now I'm just waiting on the correct caliper kit to get ordered in (tomorrow) and she'll be good to go! OH and from preliminary assessment, it looks like a coil from the front springs will need to get the choppy choppy to get it level with the rear. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shavenYak Posted May 3, 2011 Author Share Posted May 3, 2011 Got everything sorted today - this is the current height: Bump stop gap: about 20mm.. :] Got a $5 steering wheel and a cheap bosskit. Made some modifications and now have the original horn button installed Put new pads in front and re-kitted the calipers. Unfortunately the clamp I had on one of the brake hoses came off over night and all the brake fluid drained out. After bleeding twice, brakes still feel a bit spongey. Should I take it in somewhere and get the fluid reverse-pumped, or will this probably come right after a few more bleeds? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shavenYak Posted May 5, 2011 Author Share Posted May 5, 2011 Cleaned up my Streetfins a bit today, here is what they look like after scrubbing them with a washing-powder paste: (guess which pair came off the front) Then I carefully sanded the face using a foam sanding block, and polished the lips using Suzuki power, a la Simon's tutorial. Thinking about repainting the black - I guess easiest way would be to paint, then sand paint off faces? not sure if I should get the lips cleaned up, they're pretty curbed. Who could repair them and what should I expect to pay? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shavenYak Posted June 22, 2011 Author Share Posted June 22, 2011 So as some of you may have seen in another thread I did my first proper rust repair using my new mig the other day. Roof skin and frame had rusted out pretty bad in a spot above the drivers door. Was a bit of a mission, but very satisfying to accomplish. and then and then and then and then and then and then and then! So with that, and once I took my lowering blocks out I got a WOF. Always such a releif. Tonight I thought I'd tackle something that's been bugging me since I lowered the car. As shown in the previous post, the two inch blocks in the back meant that there was only approx 10mm travel to the bump stop. That made for a pretty bumpy ride, and also I don't think the WOF man would have liked it. This was the problem: The chassis has these boxes built on to hit the bump stops. From my rough measurements it seems it would be sweet to get rid of them without the axle or wheels hitting anything. SO I GOT CHOPPING! Then my portable light broke so I'm gonna clean up and reassemble tomorrow. YAY! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shavenYak Posted June 24, 2011 Author Share Posted June 24, 2011 Well, I cleaned up the grinding a bit and took it for a drive and it's now fully awesome. Nice and low and comfy. Only problem is the shocks are now able to bottom out before the bump stop hits, so will have to see about getting shorter shocks or putting a bit of those things I chopped off back. I'll leave it for now. I finally got some tyres put on the streetfins and tried them out.. It quickly became apparent that even +19 is too RWD an offset to clear the guards. Especially at the back. Briefly tried to pump the guards using a steel rod, but didn't have much luck. Would need to chop a bit of the guard out and fit flares. Although the car can sit with them on and there's still about a 20mm gap. Ironic really, since that probably would have worked with those bump stop extensions in. Ahh well. Also, waiting for alto on fins plz Might look into getting flares made up, but in that case I might as well get some wider rims since there's a good 2 inch gap on the inside of the arch with these. 12x8's ? So if anyone's especially keen on these, make me an offer. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shavenYak Posted June 29, 2011 Author Share Posted June 29, 2011 Got a pair of SW20 seats delivered by exige92 courier service. Went about adapting them to fit the other night. I was expecting to have to re position the rails as the suzuki's ones are quite narrow. However turns out the mr2 seats mounting involved brackets attached to the side of the seat, not just rails screwed directly into the seat base as per the suzuki. Suzuki seat: mr2 seat: Getting the seat rails off was a bit hard since they were not only press-riveted on but also spot welded in a couple of places. But with a bit of persistence and violence I got them off! So plan was then to attach some lengths of flat steel laterally across the seat base, which I could then attach the suzuki seat rails to. Like so: Passenger side seat was easy enough, but the drivers side had a few more controls like seat base tilt, which meant that there was a mounting point missing. Passenger side: Drivers side: After a bit of head scratching I decided to weld on a bit of steel. Which wasn't completely easy since it needed to clear the seat tilting mechanism. This worked out alright and after a lick of paint, got the seats in the car! I'm very happy with them, they're 1000% comfier and more supportive than the factory seats. The only gripe I have is that because of the seatbelt stalks fouling on the side seat bracket, I had to move the seats out a little towards the doors. This means that the steering wheel feels like it's slightly to the left. But this is pretty minor and probably something I'll get used to. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shavenYak Posted March 6, 2012 Author Share Posted March 6, 2012 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shavenYak Posted May 24, 2012 Author Share Posted May 24, 2012 Had these wheels lying around for a while, they're 12" Contessas from an Austin. Thanks to azzurro for hooking me up with the wheel nuts I needed. I'm going to get my 145/70's from the stock steels put on them, but question is - should I paint them first, and if so - what colour? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shavenYak Posted December 9, 2012 Author Share Posted December 9, 2012 I've had this Weber 30 DGS carb lying around for a while now. Bought it reconditioned from Weber specialists up in Auckland. It's originally from a Citroen GS. Only problem is it's mounting bolt pattern is only just slightly different to the original carb, so making an adaptor plate would be difficult. So I was thinking of getting someone to weld the holes on the intake manifold and re-drill to suit the carb. Other option would be to widen and slot the holes on the carb, which seems a bit rough. Who knows someone who could weld aluminium for me? Other suggestions? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shavenYak Posted January 20, 2015 Author Share Posted January 20, 2015 So, a while back (about 7 years ago now) I was doing some handbrake drifting in a rainy Mt Albert Pak n Save carpark. I was a little too enthusiastic approaching the last corner and hit the curb sideways with a my rear left wheel. I bent the steel rim pretty severely but managed to limp home down the road. I replaced the wheels and assessed the damage. The hub seemed ok - car still felt OK to drive and the wheel bearings seemed OK. The incident then faded from memory until recently when Treggo pointed out how much positive camber the left rear wheel had compared to the other wheels. It dawned on me that I had in fact bent the solid rear axle a little. (and, err.. driven it like that for seven years.) Can't really make it out in this picture but it's all cocked. So anyway, managed to get hold of a spare rear axle and fitted it last night. Now I have nice straight wheels and the same amount of gap between wheel and wheel arch on both wheels. Bendy axle: 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shavenYak Posted January 29, 2015 Author Share Posted January 29, 2015 Got the 12" ROH Contessas powdercoated and slapped some new tires on them. Powdercoating colour was supposed to be silver, but came out a light grey. Very happy with the result. Went with Linglong Greenmax in the end. Nice and cheap. Will have to see how they perform in the wet. 7 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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