tortron Posted November 29, 2007 Share Posted November 29, 2007 look up the sportspack manual i think it is, have a gander on chevettes.com i think, like 200 pages of chevette engine modding goodness Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikuni Posted November 29, 2007 Share Posted November 29, 2007 I think I might look that up just to see how someone can possibly spend 200 pages modding a chevette engine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snoozin Posted November 29, 2007 Share Posted November 29, 2007 I think I might look that up just to see how someone can possibly spend 200 pages modding a chevette engine. Depends how many steps you have to take to get it in the bin I suppose. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikuni Posted November 29, 2007 Share Posted November 29, 2007 I think I might look that up just to see how someone can possibly spend 200 pages modding a chevette engine. Depends how many steps you have to take to get it in the bin I suppose. True. I'd say on page 168 they give up and spend the rest of the pages putting in something decent Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hbtorana Posted July 3, 2012 Share Posted July 3, 2012 Sorry to revive ancient thread. In 1990s, ported, balanced, heavily modified cam - grind from racing 1200 mini cooper lots a lift added from 1800-6500 rpm, pistons, decked block, shaved head, bigger valves, enlarged and matched chambers, modified imported oil pump and dizzy from Uk. Ignition timing is set somewhere near 30+ degrees, modified dizzy weights. Cleaned up approx. 500 grams from inside block. The rods were ground, balanced, matched. Crack tested about 3 blocks after cleanup & major machining before found a good one. Parts from 5 or 6 engines used. Modified the arm on standard pump to give extra stroke & changed to larger diam pump valves. Had a set of offset racing pistons 60 thou over but turfed them in favour of modified pistons from uk. eg reduced skirt & ground (for valve clearance) and matched weighted Modified sigma 2.6L radiator and 12" fan. Easily went through 15-20 rockers till replaced with custom cut/tempered valve springs from piece of asian crap. So far still runs best on the heavily modified 30iz downdraft. Had many exhausts - standard exhaust, custom extractors, 1.5 inch, 1.75, currently runs the cast iron headers, guts ground out 1.5 inch through reso & muffler. 1.75 sounded like a fart cannon. Have run cd150, dual cd150, carb off mazda 1.5l all have problems. Bunch of ignition systems. Went back to points - so simple. Caining the crap out if it one day (dirt rallying), 2nd gear. Managed to limp it back 40km to next town. By time got in to town had to hand push last couple hundred meters. Got it home on flatbed. Pulled it down, found the centre bearing had grabbed. By eye you could see the bend in the crankshaft. Paper and filed the bearings till the crank was able to spin freely chucked it all back together and it still runs. Been through way too many diffs and gearboxes. Rips the output shaft end of the single piece cast boxes or the gear shafts rip out. With two piece ally/steel box cracks the ally casing all way around (at the bolts to the steel center housing). Twist input shafts (both long and short shafts) of the little diffs, installed banjo from LC. axles give. Whenever it gets hot the thing will idles like a v8. Crapped bearing was due to the change from mineral oil to synthetic oil night before.. Car has not seen daylight in 5 or 6 years. Clocked speedo way past numbers - many many times. No problems staying with 2L mazda utes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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