Mof Posted February 17, 2020 Share Posted February 17, 2020 Well there you are Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
d.p.n.s Posted February 17, 2020 Share Posted February 17, 2020 i hate coolant temp issues so i feel your pian mate. the factory head gaskets should be fine...ive seen 500hp turbo 1uzs that havnt been pulled apart ( not long for this world...but 1 of them has made it almost 3 yeara so far)and the they stay cool with factory coolant setup and radiator. i would be so tempted to pull the heads off and check that there isn't an issues with the gaskets....wrong side....wrong way around....stuffed.. apart from that ill keep reading replys Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mof Posted February 17, 2020 Share Posted February 17, 2020 There does appear to be a left and right though Edit: Also, did you say the heater is hooked up? Is it blowing hot air when the engine gets hot? Dodgy thermostat? I wouldn't think so if it's heating straight away. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
d.p.n.s Posted February 17, 2020 Share Posted February 17, 2020 it cant be a massive airlock can it.?. it does sound like a water flow restriction and it doesnt take much...1 small hoke covered by gasket and coolant temps go crazy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yetchh Posted February 17, 2020 Share Posted February 17, 2020 Does the 1uz thermostat sit in the return line from the radiator like the 1kz? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mof Posted February 17, 2020 Share Posted February 17, 2020 Looks like it's at the top on the pump outlet. One would assume it's the right way around with the valve at the top? Can/did you burp the inlet hose at the water manifold just under the front of the charger? What's the Senders taken out of that manifold? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sheepers Posted February 17, 2020 Share Posted February 17, 2020 The thermostat is in the return line like a few toyotas. I jacked the front of the car way up and burped it with a funnel fitting into the radiator filler neck. Ive done this three times. The sensors removed fron the front water bridge are cold start trigger (hasn't been used since I installed the link about 6 years ago) and the temp sender for the autometer gauge which is now in the rear water bridge. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yetchh Posted February 17, 2020 Share Posted February 17, 2020 Stupid question but are you sure your themostats good? As it should be deactivating the bypass when it's open pulling water from the radiator instead of circulating it.. I'm not sure if pulling the thermostat helps as the bypass is active.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yowzer Posted February 17, 2020 Share Posted February 17, 2020 Pop the top rad hose off and fire it up, as soon as the thermostat opens it should projectile vomit the coolant out pretty quick. That'll tell you quickly if it's a flow issue or not 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
h4nd Posted February 17, 2020 Share Posted February 17, 2020 Oh, and by the way, this whole thing is awesome. I think this is the car that @kyteler used to drive me out to cell-phone coverage for in Coromandel, because middy was stressed about a thing. The attention to detail is superb, right down to touches like the nice lighting on the gauges, (good colour, and even light coverage). Bloody magic in person! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kyteler Posted February 17, 2020 Share Posted February 17, 2020 This is indeed that car. Although it wasn't overheating then. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mof Posted February 17, 2020 Share Posted February 17, 2020 Put a H4nd in it, that's obviously the key /lingor Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Evan Posted February 18, 2020 Share Posted February 18, 2020 Still got the old water pump that you could put back into it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoKer Posted February 18, 2020 Share Posted February 18, 2020 have you though about Meth? ....injection or even water? I know that's a backwards way of thinking to cool things when it shouldn't be acting this way in the first place Seems weird (and frustrating) one bug is giving you so much mischief (following in the hope its something simple & not a sizeable setback) no chance any custom water pipes or mods are hiding under the intake and sitting wrong? chin up champ! how have other boosted Yota's got on with anything like this? (edit 50 mins later) and I'm talking about this stage : what was involved with the pressure test : ie just air? or Fluid I'm more ling than anyone else commenting here so really just here keen to learn / follow Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
d.p.n.s Posted February 18, 2020 Share Posted February 18, 2020 just a thought mate but the SC manifold inst blocking a water gallery off ? 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fuel Posted February 18, 2020 Share Posted February 18, 2020 this engine has new pistons right? could it be the piston to bore clearances are too tight and there is too much friction going on? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RUNAMUCK Posted February 18, 2020 Share Posted February 18, 2020 That would have made the engine very hard to assemble.turn over on the engi e stand Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sheepers Posted February 18, 2020 Share Posted February 18, 2020 It turns nicely by hand. If its eating itself that would have been evident in the oil filter but that showed nothing untoward Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sheepers Posted February 18, 2020 Share Posted February 18, 2020 Also I really appreciate your input team. Im sorry if im coming across as a bit curt or short but I am incredibly fucked off and really angry at not being able to fix this. The radiator guy hasn't has a slot to look at my radiator until now so I'll take that up to him now and hope like fuck that's been the problem. Fuck, I really hope it is because I'm running out of things to try..... 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjrstar Posted February 18, 2020 Share Posted February 18, 2020 I reckon since almost none of the hardware ( engine size, radiator size, fans etc...) has changed you are on the right track with bleeding.. I fought similar temp issues on the 4g63 in the mx5 for weeks, it would rocket to North of 105 degrees very quickly, no amount of fan did anything to stop the skyrocketing temp, in fact it would climb to 112-115 once the engine was shut off... in the end it was an airlock, I made a bleeder arrangement at the back of the block using a brake bleed nipple. The bleed point is permanently installed, to bleed you crack it open and plumb some clear hose into the header tank, my temp issues have disappeared even with boost its rock solid. Also you haven't changed the pulley ratio of the water pump - leading to it running at a greatly reduced rpm? ( sorry if this has been asked - or are these cambelt drive?) I don't quite grasp from your photos exactly how the coolant gets from the back of the engine (is it that crossover thingee between the heads)to the front. Edit: had a quick look through your thread.. where did this welded up bit go to originally? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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