Stu Posted June 4, 2012 Share Posted June 4, 2012 Kris - http://www.sunriseauto.co.nz/?q=node/2 Just around the corner so acceptable distance with Sat morning hang over... EDIT: Gay, not open on Saturday by the looks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Truenotch Posted June 5, 2012 Share Posted June 5, 2012 Hmm... You've got me thinking about testing my 2.25 - 2.5" taper out again... Removed it because it was easier to make the exhaust fit that way, but might be time to flange it up as a test pipe and try again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vintage Grumble Posted June 5, 2012 Share Posted June 5, 2012 Those extractors bone me up every time. Also, agree on the T50 > W box, the old T's are sooo smooooth. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Truenotch Posted June 5, 2012 Share Posted June 5, 2012 A 7-degree taper gives a wide band with more torque-y power at the bottom but may sacrifice some maximum horsepower on top. These are great for street cars, road racing, shifter drag cars, or anything else where you want a broad, smooth power band. A 13-degree taper gives a steeper, narrower, but higher band with most power coming on the top end. Excellent for high revving engines that want maximum horsepower and can sacrifice it from down on the bottom to get it up top. These are well suited to high HP drag cars, drifters, and dyno pulling. A 9-degree taper tries to achieve a compromise between the two extremes. http://www.coneeng.com/exhaust_system_kits.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Valiant Posted July 1, 2012 Share Posted July 1, 2012 Hey KPR, Why are you doing that? To alter your Ackerman angle? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kpr Posted July 1, 2012 Share Posted July 1, 2012 kinda yeh, have done it for a couple of reasons stop over centering at high lock. isn't much of a problem at the moment. but i may run more steering lock, for when i do skid/drift days. other reason being to lighten up the steering a little. its running a quick rack with only 2 turns lock to lock. need to be like arnie to turn the thing. done same on my trueno, worked well. this just sprung another idea. i might look into moving the lower arm mounts forward, while the x member is out. its running alot more caster than factory, so the lower arm bushes are getting a hard time. should get the whole lot back into spec then. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Valiant Posted July 2, 2012 Share Posted July 2, 2012 Moving the lower arm sounds like a good idea too. You were looking to wreck this recently weren't you? I'm glad you didn't. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kpr Posted July 2, 2012 Share Posted July 2, 2012 moved the arm mounts forward 15mm to match the rack tonight. hopefully it all works out, as i was too lazy/impatient to test fit. yeh, was almost sold as a rolling body, and i sold head and big cams to nicT on here. glad i still have it also, so much fun to drive. kinda worked out for the best, as no engine etc.. gave me an excuse to redo everything i was wanting to change, before i decided to sell. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ryanfels Posted July 2, 2012 Share Posted July 2, 2012 Wont moving the lower arms the same amount as the rack just give you more caster but make no change to the mechanical advantage of the lock? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kpr Posted July 3, 2012 Share Posted July 3, 2012 i was thinking this ^ to start with. but moving the lower arm at the x member end, only has a small effect on (less) caster. unless i've overlooked something, all its really doing is correcting the lower arm angle, after adding more caster. if everything else stays the same it will reduce caster a small amount, as the arm will pivot on the castor arm (swaybar in kp) moving both the rack and lower arms forward. can add more caster, with less lower arm binding issues and less over centering issues at high lock. more caster will promote more over centering. not so sure on the effect on steering weight now tbh. angle grinder first think later like usual Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Valiant Posted July 8, 2012 Share Posted July 8, 2012 It looks like it has worked out well. Does it drive nicely? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
camo_78 Posted July 8, 2012 Share Posted July 8, 2012 as a rule i dont usually like kp's but this one looks fooking mint Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Posted July 8, 2012 Share Posted July 8, 2012 haha awesome I think every project update should have a TLDR section at the end. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kpr Posted July 8, 2012 Share Posted July 8, 2012 haha, agree compulsory tl;dr summary at end of each update steering is quite a bit lighter, feels good. i need to put the other wheels/tyres back to confirm though, as the ones on there now are worn a bit different. has also gained a bit of front end grip which it needed. probably due to the extra track. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kyteler Posted July 8, 2012 Share Posted July 8, 2012 I think the 02's are alright, it just needs a full set as the only thing making it look weird is the different pair on the back. It almost looks like it needs some more width in the back too, wider diff, manipulated guards? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kpr Posted July 8, 2012 Share Posted July 8, 2012 i have a full set of those 02's, but the back actually has no room at all. need another 20mm to make the rears happen. was gonna do guard mods using ep71 arches, but decided against chopping it up. cutting down diff some more is almost at top of to do list. so front and rear take same wheel fitment. and i want to align the case better, much like the trueno. probably roll the 03's with a spacer up front for now Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drivekp60 Posted July 26, 2012 Share Posted July 26, 2012 that video is amazing. how does the starlet compare to an ae86 for drifting? ive got a drift event in my starlet this weekend, ive only ever drifted an ae86 out at the track. ps nice driving. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kpr Posted July 26, 2012 Share Posted July 26, 2012 that vid in the wet doesn't show it well, as it was crazy slippery. main thing you do notice is the lack of car behind you. ae85 seems to sit out in a slide nicer, where as the kp wants to change direction more. either straighten up or spin. wheelbase isn't hugely different, but alot less car after the rear wheels, less pendulum effect. i dont find it that much harder to drift than the 85, just gotta be a bit quicker on the wheel. but maybe harder going from ae86 to kp, than the other way around like i did. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Truenotch Posted July 26, 2012 Share Posted July 26, 2012 Love this vid: eVJfs5n6sZM How's that alloy muffler? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kpr Posted July 26, 2012 Share Posted July 26, 2012 haha. so slippery, pushing the angle limit a bit much, was way too easy. muffler is still in one piece! front right strut is stuffed and have a cracked strut tower though! have been too lazy to find/ fix it yet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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