Popular Post kpr Posted April 26 Author Popular Post Posted April 26 Got a bit more done on this head today. roughed out the start of the ports. figuring it out as go along. but the plan is, take out most of it on the mill then hand port the rest. 22 Quote
Popular Post kpr Posted April 27 Author Popular Post Posted April 27 good thing i got the machine with the head that tilts both ways, come in handy already Have a jig in vice to bolt the inserts into, so can machine them all the way through. makes it easier to get them all the same also Pretty close to size here Need to do some more math double check they are sized correctly. But pretty close on the inlet side also. Probably said in a previous post; Bigport heads, all the ports are on an angle. so my evenly space ports dont line up, even this far down. Most of it will come out once port whats left of them. but will likely end up with a few step downs here and there. Since the main goal is a test run for my smallport head. not interested in making angle ports. and if this head were to ever get big valves, enough will come out for seamless transition Angle makes the port entry look way bigger than it is 32 Quote
Popular Post kpr Posted May 8 Author Popular Post Posted May 8 Needed to figure out the manifold, before gluing in the port inserts in for good. Had a bit of acetal hanging around that i brought for another project many years ago. current adapter/ manifold is made of the same stuff. Makes for good thermal insulator bunch of excess material to come off and ports to be machined to size. but all bolts up 31 Quote
Popular Post kpr Posted May 17 Author Popular Post Posted May 17 Head is basically done, needs to go to the shop to get the seats cut, before can test run it. as valves are all wacky after putting the guides back in. Any 3sge (non beams) people on here with some intake valves hanging around? thinking about trying some in this head if it works on the test run made some fancy cam sensor mounts Put a digital scale on the mill, thanks to aliexpress. 31 Quote
Popular Post kpr Posted June 6 Author Popular Post Posted June 6 Heads back from shop getting intake seats cut done a diy head skim on the mill. this old junker head was surprisingly straight. .04mm pretty much cleaned the whole thing 33 Quote
Popular Post kpr Posted June 13 Author Popular Post Posted June 13 so the last few days went like this In that order. I found some pictures of that port and that hole wasn't there when i put the head on. so was thin enough, that in the 20 sec the engine ran, vac pulled what little material there was there out. managed to slide hammer the insert out, so could get tig down there to weld the hole. hole was in head not insert. Seemed to have a bit of material around the hole. so just a thin spot in the casting. fun times. but that's why this head is a test run 41 2 Quote
Popular Post kpr Posted July 3 Author Popular Post Posted July 3 Got this going yesterday, after spending way too long making a new throttle linkage /pull this is the most ive made on stock cams - 125kw, the 129kw blue is uncorrected. the dyno over corrects a bit. so on a cold day the corrected power is lower than the corrected power on a hot day. so probably around the 127kw mark. which is pretty silly on the little stock cams. head also has pretty much stock exhaust side, i just zing'd a couple bumps off. still has the og toyota valve job. So looking good to do the same to big valve head 37 3 Quote
Popular Post kpr Posted July 13 Author Popular Post Posted July 13 A day or so after that, decided to swap in another inlet cam. I only had one stock shim cam hanging around. being a 193b exhaust cam. which is a 278 advertised 8.5mm, pretty small in the scheme of things but bit of a jump up from the weak 232 7.1mm stock cams Just throw that in the intake side and happy days.. turns out the supertech valve springs and ti retainers i had hanging around, that i threw in this head. weren't agreeing with the stock buckets note the shiny ring around the edge. not the swaf, was rolling around on the floor before took picture stock retainer left. supertech right, bigger so can take dual springs lucky it didn't drop a valve. Was only an issue on the intake side as the valves had been tipped when it got a valve job. but must be super close still if everything was 100% stock. with shimless buckets, non issue also, as they have more clearance under them Pinched the springs and retainers out of the big valve head. Then done the super fun job of changing them in place. So 30min job into a day job, results 278 intake cam stock exhaust; Pretty good considering stock exhaust cam and ports. thats it for this head. It can stay on there until the other one is finished. which Ive already cut up. no going back now 28 4 Quote
Popular Post kpr Posted July 19 Author Popular Post Posted July 19 day 6 on the big valve head. Still a bunch of material to come out of the port entry. But everything works out a lot nicer starting with smallport head, even though this one has been pretty aggressively ported. Material needs to come out of the top where new port meets the head, which is just part of changing in to "high port" rest of it all lines up pretty close with nice even ports and spacing, unlike bigport head. Just a little zing here and there with die grinder will sort it 25 Quote
Popular Post kpr Posted July 23 Author Popular Post Posted July 23 Managed to squeeze some o-ring grooves in this one. Pretty much done on this fixture, just some more manifold holes to go. ports are roughed out close as they are going to get on the mill. can only do so much firing a end mill down there on a bunch of different angles They are pretty close though. only a small amount of hand porting to finish them. The fins on top and bottom of ports are a byproduct of the angles the ports are drilled on. They are staying there, as works out well to take up some of the cross sectional area in front of the divider where its little big. 26 2 Quote
Popular Post kpr Posted July 24 Author Popular Post Posted July 24 got the all the manifold holes drilled and tapped. managed to get the external drain back in also. half of it got cut off in the process Cut the valve spring seats and some hand porting to go. Then it can go to shop to get guides and valve job 30 1 Quote
Popular Post kpr Posted July 30 Author Popular Post Posted July 30 Head is at the shop getting valve job. Was a couple things that could have been improved on it without doing the high port. one being the valve throats are a touch on the small side. ideally would leave as is, so can just compare the ports. but too much mahi and more money. so seats will be adjusted and a little more porting to suit Its been 10 years since this head was originally built with the oversized valves. its done pretty good to get this far 22 3 Quote
Popular Post kpr Posted August 1 Author Popular Post Posted August 1 Mocked this up. should work for now at least. From previous testing the centerline of the bend usually works out roughly same length as a straight bit of pipe. What's in the pictures below should be 10mm too long, so will come away from the tower And the engine doesn't really care at all about bends this far from the valve, unless undersized or to sharp. Still, the internet will lose its shit that Ive put bends here, after going to all the effort to remove them in the ports. Will test against the straight runners once the good head is back on. This head looks like It may have sprung an oil leak around the port inserts, but quite possible i just made a mess when swapping cams and stuff Once finish this intake will put some more run time on it to see if is actually an issue or not. I'm not 100% sold on the sealant i'm using yet. 23 1 Quote
Popular Post kpr Posted August 6 Author Popular Post Posted August 6 some people thing making a tapered section or cone, out of a bit of straight pipe is some kinda wizardry. but its not that hard. cut a v out of it, jam some clamps around it and weld, hit it with a hammer a few times. doing the same with a bend isnt too much different Those were 2x 90deg 2.5" bends. They are a little big at the filter end, since thinner wall than the old parts that went here. So is a step down in the runner. but its really just make this setup so bonnet shuts and has a filter for now. This is the wild exhaust cam timing im having to run to get it to work on stock exhaust cam and ports. the marks are a little wacky on this engine, but its not a tooth out as the cam gear suggests 21 Quote
Popular Post kpr Posted August 14 Author Popular Post Posted August 14 my battery from 2007 finally died. cant complain too much i guess. ^ After sending my northland wof standard battery clamp to @Dudley and saying this junk starts on this little battery. He come back and surprised me with an actual good idea for once. "should put it in the engine bay" Then I proceeded to spend way too much time making a bracket for it, that picks up on some factory holes. Because the novelty of having a mill hasn't worn off yet. i made the whole thing on said mill and it all bolts together Nicely hides under the filter/intake out of sight. 29 2 Quote
Popular Post kpr Posted August 22 Author Popular Post Posted August 22 Got the big valve head back. speaking of valves, ended up having to replace most of them. so fresh set in both sides. shit happens when everything is running super tight clearances. Grabbed a few pictures for a better comparison to show how much the ports have been moved compared to stock head 32 2 Quote
Popular Post kpr Posted August 25 Author Popular Post Posted August 25 So this thing exploded in a fireball. Just took the head off. amazingly doesn't look like the valves even touched the piston. which is stuck in the bore in current location below Also the head wasn't doing much for it. seemed to have lost a bit of top end if anything. But is very possible it will like a different setup. so was running though different runner lengths when it let go, still had more stuff to try. but yeah shit happens. Pretty sure one of the china rod bolts let go. will inspect further once its out. 10 1 17 Quote
Popular Post kpr Posted August 27 Author Popular Post Posted August 27 got it apart today, only found one bolt in the sump after searching around the shed i found the rest of it under the hilux. funny thing is the hole in the block is too small on that side for the rod to fit out. so it must have done a lap of the shed on the way out. piston took a hiding but managed to stay together can see in this picture and 2nd one down the crank has been blending the rod until it grabed hold of it and threw it out the side 12 1 4 Quote
Popular Post kpr Posted August 27 Author Popular Post Posted August 27 This is the piston next door. stuff flying around in there fast enough to put dents in the underside of piston can see the oil gallery from oil pump to filter has been smashed open here all the bearings look nice apart from the offending rod of course new crank in the bin as well. 11 1 14 Quote
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