Popular Post kpr Posted January 15, 2019 Author Popular Post Share Posted January 15, 2019 Moving pictures and loud noises version of last post. Got some decent sound quality this time 17 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post kpr Posted January 20, 2019 Author Popular Post Share Posted January 20, 2019 more dyno stuff.... Had to finish the tune after swapping to the small headers. Tried a few things while it was on there. First up; some time ago read something on the internet, that throttles may flow better/make more power just under 100% open rather than 100% open. Yeh nar; blue: 96% open, tried 98% as well same deal just a bit closer to red (100%) line. Maybe it needs even bigger throttles? they are 47mm Next is with the trumpets removed. the below removed all together was expecting some big losses, but not quite like this! over 10kw through the whole powerband. 13 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post kpr Posted February 17, 2019 Author Popular Post Share Posted February 17, 2019 11 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post kpr Posted February 26, 2019 Author Popular Post Share Posted February 26, 2019 So yep, those are bmw 52mm throttles. I wouldn't suggest running out and fitting them to your average 4age. have had to do a lot of little mods, to get them close enough together for the port spacing. right down to having to anneal the throttle shaft, as i had to re-drill it and mr bmw hardened the shit out of one part where the bearing ran. Anyway attempted to teach my self how to cad. sent it to @niswhale who cut me a template/test run out of mdf Amazingly i drew it right first go. and i was about to resort to hole saws and angle grinder.. After a lot of dicking around all the throttles fit on the flange. Have half made a fuel rail for some massive 980cc injectors i brought when was going to try outboard injection. To start with they will be just there to bung the holes. later on if all goes well will switch to them and retune. but for now changing as little as possible other than throttles, in the name of proper @Roman science. Hello tempted to run with mdf.. but this part is on its way from @Stu (cheers cnt) Since metal isn't fun anymore, its made from acetal. aka fancy plastic. 30 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post kpr Posted March 2, 2019 Author Popular Post Share Posted March 2, 2019 As mentioned above. trying to keep everything the same apart from throttles and adapter. But also didn't want to cut up my 20v setup. just in case this doesn't work. Found some thick wall ali pipe, that just happened to have the same 60mm od, as trumpets on the 20v setup and also 52mm id, which is the same as the bmw throttle inlets. so all i needed to do was machine a taper into the pipe from 52mm out to 53.5mm. Went and used the old boys lathe. found this hanging around his shed. gentle hint maybe...? test fit seems good, same length and top half as the 20v setup. which is plenty big, the taper was pretty aggressive before, possibly little too much. few more little things to do, then will be good to go 31 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post kpr Posted March 10, 2019 Author Popular Post Share Posted March 10, 2019 So, it didn't make anymore power with the 52mm throttles. Same power everywhere. Then hooked up the new fuel rail and injectors. was way down on power. then nunga nunga... RIP 4age. ran a bearing on number 3. shiny bits on the piston are where its been hitting the head. and valves have been having a go too. Actually surprised its lasted this long. bottom end was built 10 years ago, its been n/a most of its life. was supercharged for a bit. was turbo in my ae85 for awhile. revved to 9000rpm every time its driven. pretty sure it proven itself that all that was no drama. thinking what did the damage, was when it had the issue with pumping oil up into the head and out the breathers. resulting in low oil pressure and giving the bearings a bit of a hiding. just been a time bomb from then onwards. it broke on the dyno, so zero chance was suffering from oil surge at the time. probably wasn't ready for all this power anyway 15 11 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post kpr Posted March 23, 2019 Author Popular Post Share Posted March 23, 2019 Engine is going to be rebuilt with a few new bits Previous bottom end was a silvertop bottom end. Balanced with arp rod bolts and toda 82mm pistons. rest stock. This time: Same toda pistons : awaiting new rings Brian Crower rods: just some off the self rods. mostly because they are around 100gm lighter per rod than what was in there ARP mains Toda Oil pump gears The broken stuff; Crank seen better days. Block had some unrelated pitting in the bores, looks like it had water or something sitting around rings when it wasn't in use for some time. mostly at the bottom of the stroke, so probably wasn't loosing any power from it. Head: valves look ok, awaiting 2nd opinion from engine guy So yeh no more 20v parts, had a spare 16v ze block and crank, will be base for new bottom end. Suspect that the valves have been starting to float. so will be putting these fancy beehive springs in. at the moment it has supertech singles. which are borderline for what im doing No#3 toast 24 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post kpr Posted May 19, 2019 Author Popular Post Share Posted May 19, 2019 small update on this, new engine is still a work in progress. New block has been bored out for the toda pistons, new rings acquired ( was thinking about getting something higher compression but spent too much already) Crank; the crank out of the spare 4agze block was bent?! Was over old junk by this point and brought a new genuine crank thanks @CorollaGT Head had 2 bent exhaust valves, which had no signs of contact on the pistons when pulled the engine apart, unlike the inlet valves. guessing i may have got slightly aggressive on the exhaust cam timing at some stage. Otherwise its fine. Done a little work in the chambers while head is off. Hand finished the transition into exhaust seats. previously was a small lip, knocked that off into small radius. plus knocked off a few other little bits . Assembled with kelford beehive springs and ti retainers, top side is even lighter now due to the smaller diameter of the spring and retainer. engine guy has the last exhaust valve, as needs a little bit of a zing to get clearances correct. Going to ditch the oil cooler for now. First reason being, it probably has bits of rod bearing stuck in it. also suspect it even needs it, plus is more shit to go wrong and it weighs something. so yeh mostly the last too reasons.. have welded a bung in the sump to monitor oil temps. before the sensor was in the sandwich plate for the cooler. tl;dr : found more broken stuff. spent more money. should be running again sometime 26 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post kpr Posted May 26, 2019 Author Popular Post Share Posted May 26, 2019 V3.0 Bottom end All the ARP's Threw the bottom end in the car, before attempting to put head on, since don't have an engine stand. One small issue. 16v sumps are a little bigger than the 20v one that was in there. Hits the bash plate/ brace. will probably modify the engine mounts engine to lift the engine 5mm or so. cbf'd taking sump back off. 20 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post kpr Posted June 9, 2019 Author Popular Post Share Posted June 9, 2019 New engine is alive Back on the 47mm throttles for run in as had good tune for them. trying some stuff hence wiring abortion. have wiring for multiple setups on same loom, so can swap between easy must of done something right, 150kw at wheels on the small extractors, most its ever made on same setup is 145kw, usually around 143kw. Note to self put mic further away; RIP mic and all speakers. 27 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post kpr Posted June 16, 2019 Author Popular Post Share Posted June 16, 2019 Tried more stuff, ended up back in the same place. Including this: -50kw was trying to find the first reflective wave. chased it along the rpm range cutting the pipe down 200mm at a time., but just found negative results. half way thru noticed the silicone joiners wern't playing the game and doing some crazy stuff. possibly giving some wack results. but pretty sure i seen what i needed to see. seems the loss in the super long pipe with bends in it offsets anything that would be gained from the reflective wave. Got the bmw throttles on there now running the big injectors further back in the throttle bodies. makes exactly same power throughout the curve as with the 47mm 20v throttles and injectors in the head. But soon as you mess with this: drop the top trumpets off and goodbye 10 -15kw everywhere. so yeh that setup seems to be on point green: current setup. with small extractors red: old engine big extractors blue: old engine small extractors And.. road test, not having the hole at 4500rpm plus bit more up top, shit hustles of the mark through 1st and 2nd gear. throttle bit too touchy for my liking though, need to revise the linkage setup. 20 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kpr Posted June 22, 2019 Author Share Posted June 22, 2019 noisy version of above 6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post kpr Posted July 28, 2019 Author Popular Post Share Posted July 28, 2019 conclusion: bmw throttles make no more power. injectors in bmw throttle instead of head, no change. have revised throttle linkage setup. still not as good as the setup on the 20v throttles, but a whole lot better But have gone with this setup as it heat soaks less. both the throttles and the fuel rail are isolated from the head, with a thermal gasket and 25mm bit of plastic. should be bit more consistent, since hot air and fuel suck Also found that cylinder 1 was running a touch leaner than the rest, after checking afr per cylinder. so have added a fuel trim to add a bit more fuel on cyl 1, 18 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post kpr Posted September 14, 2019 Author Popular Post Share Posted September 14, 2019 kinda boring update. hadn't changed the thermostat forever, so thought would try a lower temp one. seen on engine masters they made some more power running cooler water temps, so cant hurt to try.. new one is meant to be 68 degrees. but seems like more like 76 degrees. the stock Toyota one is 82deg and sits bang on that under normal conditions So yep, robbed. as you would expect no change in power, with only a 6 degree difference in water temp. but did confirm what have been seeing with oil temps; 20deg more oil temp is consistently another 3-4kw. that's going from 80deg to 100deg. faster engine is spinning more gains. in other news, some time ago i put a china alternator on it, because cheap. have been fighting broken bolts and alternator brackets for awhile. which i assumed was my crappy bracket that i made too lightweight. turns out old mate was on his 2min lunch break and this alternator skipped the balancing stop on the production line. spinning it up with my impact driver which maybe spins at 2000rpm it wanted to jump out of your hand. so yeh at 20k rpm... note windings held together with string 12 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post kpr Posted January 19, 2020 Author Popular Post Share Posted January 19, 2020 Not much happening with this, got it legal and drove it around a bit over christmas break. Had a few new wheel days Put the streets on for a change Finally fixed a front guard, to replace the one that had an incident with the wall at hampton downs about 5 years ago. pretty good for a spray can job Got another pair of 14x7 03's from old mate @Dudley . Finished polishing them, and some antique gold. after digging out the other pair i'd been hording, they needed same treatment. guard slightly different colour, but will do for now /forever. maybe in another 5 years will fix the bonnet Back to the OG look from 10 years ago except for 7's instead of 6.5's 31 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Dudley Posted January 19, 2020 Popular Post Share Posted January 19, 2020 Skitz 19 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post kpr Posted May 21, 2020 Author Popular Post Share Posted May 21, 2020 Been daily driving this junk. Its amazingly horrible Likes the cold. 154kw at wheels, uncorrected 15 deg c 25 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post kpr Posted February 16, 2021 Author Popular Post Share Posted February 16, 2021 Long time no update. Wanted to try some stuff with the extractors, decided would be better off to make another set that will bolt in same place rather than mod current ones. made these pipes which have a very small taper down so can run a stepped section. port too big to run straight pipe. made a collector. idea was to try cut down the big open space where the 4 pipes connect. this is about how they will go. awaiting the flange and will need a few tweaks here and there. but all pipes are within 10mm of each other as it sits. other than the work in progress number 4 37 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post kpr Posted February 25, 2021 Author Popular Post Share Posted February 25, 2021 I screwed up one of the pipe lengths. so after many alterations, I'm happy with the lengths and how they look. I think for initial setup i will make a pipe that tapers up slowly from the end of collector as it sits (in place of the ugly pipe tacked on the end) Probably wait till good engine is back in before playing with that section more. 34 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post kpr Posted December 28, 2021 Author Popular Post Share Posted December 28, 2021 Long time no update. nothing really has happened to this thing other than being strapped the the dyno with various junk engines. Current one being a long rod 4age, 7a block, 4a crank custom rods, smallport pistons. modified bigport head with 193b cams. so yeh just a polished turd. has all the blot-on's off my good engine and the main reason i actually took the good engine out and put junker in, is this abomination Its something Ive wanted to do since forever ago. actually made some parts way back. but ran into issues and all got to hard basket. about 500 years past and attempted it again with a little help from a machinist friend. Intake cam pulley looks a little weird? Thats because its a vvt pulley off a 20v. They are just a simple on off 2 position deal. with 30 deg travel After some teething issues, managed to do some initial testing today The pink line is what it makes with my normal fixed timing. which is quite aggressively advanced. basically as much as can go, to gain all the midrange with minimal loss at peak. the downside is power drops fast after peak power Red line is with vvt on from start of run, which a touch more advance that what it normally runs. Then switches off a 7300 retarding intake cam 30 degrees little red line is a "stockish" bigport engine. for reference Great success? or did i just build a v8 that idles are 6000rpm 26 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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