shrike Posted February 9, 2023 Share Posted February 9, 2023 From memory Lexus also had a manual varient with a *GR engine. There was a thread on toyomods comparing The 2GR and the 1GR I think https://www.toymods.org.au/forums/threads/65328-2GRFE-Conversion-any-inputs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjrstar Posted February 9, 2023 Share Posted February 9, 2023 Will the j160 be capable of full rpm shifting you are planning? /k24 swap.. Less pistons to carry around. high rpm na talk Makes me fizz about pulling the 1ggte out and finding a Hayabusa for my old bug-eye starlet.. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roman Posted February 9, 2023 Share Posted February 9, 2023 My C56 with 95% absent synchros can actually shift amazingly well when I use the ignition cut on gear shift. Because it fully unloads the box in an instant rather than rolling off throttle. J160 has always shifted pretty nice in my experience, guess we will see! Main reason is that I've got a couple of decent gearboxes here already, and the ratios are nice. 99mm stroke on the K24, and a 152mm rod. So a 1.53 rod ratio. Not great. At 4500fps it's not even getting to 7000rpm. Thing is that if people rev a standard K24 to 8500rpm even like that, imagine what you could safely do when the stroke is nearly 30% shorter and pistons are lighter! And yes, a Busa motor or an S1000RR motor in a starlet would be absolutely friggen excellent. Would handle way better with about 1/3rd the weight in the front too. haha 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xsspeed Posted February 9, 2023 Share Posted February 9, 2023 7 hours ago, fuel said: I'm mcloving the direction this is going! Please be successful with a V6 transplant cause I sure as hell wasn't haha. Regarding the 2GR and 4GR block height, you'll probably find they are the same height and the piston wrist pin height will be different between the two to accommodate difference in stroke while using the same rods. It would be easier (read: cheaper) for Toyota to change this piston wrist pin height between the 2GR and 4GR than it would to make two different block castings, lower inlet manifold and coolant crossover pipe etc. same done between rb25 and rb26 re piston wrist pin (rods same length, pistons same bore, stroke slightly different) - pretty common practice between engine family variants i think 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roman Posted February 9, 2023 Share Posted February 9, 2023 6mm stroke difference is putting the pin a lot further down though. Guess i will find out soon enough 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xsspeed Posted February 9, 2023 Share Posted February 9, 2023 seeing i took us to RFB world I'll spam your thread for a sec as I've been on a similar journey of study albeit slightly different goal I am gathering up last of parts now to see if i can simply stroke an rb20det (78mm piston 69.7mm stroke) by using a rb26dett crank (73.7mm stroke) - will have some stock rods next week so I'll put it together and see physically if the theoretical maths works, hoping to be able to make it work without needing to make use of aftermarket (expensive) shorter stroker rods (119.5 vs 121.5mm). Maths says with a slightly thicker head gasket I can still get around 9:1 static CR. Potential to bore block to say 80mm (could go further) as its probably going to need something anyway being a thrashed twenny debt. Main reason for looking at this is I too love teh rpms but an rb20 is not really setting the world alight power wise and while it will happily take boost it means that power will hit like a train at ~4000rpms and off boost power is a bit shit - i want it to behave kinda nicely as a road car. So I am kind of going the opposite direction on rod ratio but trying not to drop rpm too much, RR goes from 1.74 in a rb20 to 1.64 in an rb26 but i am hoping that in keeping the stock (or stockish) pistons it will be light enough that forces are low in the higher rev range, not shooting for 10k though. One of the big constraints for an rb20det is head flow, In the car right now is a redtop rb20 which basically has TVIS (NICS), I will grab a more common R32 silver top head and I am currently looking at an R34 rb20de neo head as well (which has massive intake ports by comparison, and VCT on intake cam and has its own TVIS kinda thing but likely not used for boosted applications, not sure valves are any bigger yet which is constrained with tiny bores at 78mm - online data is weak so I will measure - I also need to cc the combustion chamber of the head as I cant find if its any different to a 20det, if its less then this will create more of a headache for CR) /RB the world //650 woulda got you 2 barra engines ///I was pipedreaming future track cars and was looking at 2AR and 2GR engines a while back (2AR inspired by your 1NZ work) I feel my pipedream is endorsed by your research and action lol ////ling out - I'll post up my stz in my thread once I have some actual measurements and a direction 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
h4nd Posted February 10, 2023 Share Posted February 10, 2023 So of course, I'ma buy all dem 4GR, cos once folks see Roman wailing one down the strip, they're going to appreciate harder than Yoeddies thighs in a K11 pushing contest. STONKS! 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HumberSS Posted February 10, 2023 Share Posted February 10, 2023 I had an AA63 as my 3rd car I think, some 25 years ago... Very close to the top of the list of cars I regret selling. Factory 18R-geu, coupe, LSD, w57... Ah well. If I had your one I'd be trying to find a more period correct motor, but the little V6 sounds pretty interesting. I like your use of graphs to justify your insanity. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roman Posted February 10, 2023 Share Posted February 10, 2023 Yeah I understand that sentiment. However one thing about that, is my car is a budget spec one that was pretty bottom of the barrel in terms of original features. Preserving it as a 3AU 4 speed car might sooth some purists but its not much fun to take on a track, or do the other things I want to with it. The interior in my car was quite shit, and after years of looking I gave up on trying to find nice parts. Until I bought a second car for parts to make this one nice - But then found that the spare parts car was way to nice to part out haha. So now my Dad owns it, and loves it. 3AU that fires up first pop, worlds smoothest T50 gearbox and everything's great. Has been driven in our family all the way from bottom of South Island to Cape Reinga. So this car stays as is. Sometimes I've pined for a factory AA63 model, but then... what would I actually do with it? As completely stock it would be a bit boring. Not keeping it stock, and eventually I'd want to scope creep it away from a 4AGE or whatever anyway. Here's a pic of Dads car at one of the oldschool drag events. Was awesome fun. 7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shrike Posted February 10, 2023 Share Posted February 10, 2023 3d printed gearbox adapter converted to metal Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HumberSS Posted February 10, 2023 Share Posted February 10, 2023 True, the poverty spec ones certainly weren't worth preserving as stock, unless you had a minter like your dad's one. Cool build mate Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yoeddynz Posted February 11, 2023 Share Posted February 11, 2023 I'm very excited about the direction you're taking. You know I'm partial to small displacement sixs. The klze 2.5 in my Viva was superb (it still is - the new owner loves it and its thrashed often). The sound was great and mine was pretty damn quiet really. So smooooooth! I can't quite remember but I think I'd kept my limiter at 7.5 or 8k. No point going higher without swapping in the solid lifters. I'll put this here because it's such a wonderful sounding engine. I'm sure you'll end up with a gem! 2 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roman Posted February 11, 2023 Share Posted February 11, 2023 Yep your car definitely came to mind! The small mazda V6s are great. It's been brought to my attention that the Nissan VQ25HR motor is pretty wild, its like a more extreme version of whats good about the 4GR. 2.5 litre but a little bigger bore, shorter stroke again by a few mm, and 7500rpm redline factory. The only downside is that it only has a 10something to 1 compression ratio pistons which is a bit of a bummer. Well, that and its a Nissan motor, which is a bridge too far for this car haha. But it also hits that same sweet spot for being rev capable, aftermarket support from the bigger engines of same family (350Z etc) and then RWD box options that can bolt up (350z stuff) 2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HighLUX Posted February 12, 2023 Share Posted February 12, 2023 Im sure a GR-R series bellhousing from a hilux and some wizardry would get it rigged up to a J160 no problem 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shrike Posted February 14, 2023 Share Posted February 14, 2023 Hey Remind us what diff/ratio you have in this? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roman Posted February 14, 2023 Share Posted February 14, 2023 4.3 ratio F series live axle 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shrike Posted February 14, 2023 Share Posted February 14, 2023 21 minutes ago, Roman said: 4.3 ratio F series live axle Open or LSD? F series can have Altessa LSD centres installed yeah? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roman Posted February 14, 2023 Share Posted February 14, 2023 Yes you can.has Cusco lsd though 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toucan Posted February 14, 2023 Share Posted February 14, 2023 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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