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Roman's beams 3SGE Toyota Carina


Roman

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  • 4 weeks later...
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  • Roman

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  • 2 weeks later...

Things to do... I've still got the factory narrowband oxy sensor in the exhaust manifold, only for sake of preventing an exhaust leak. (left hand side)
So I need a nut to weld or screw in, anyone know what the thread pitch is?
I guess I can just take the oxy sensor to an engineering shop or whatever.

 

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Had this guy lend a helping hand:

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Just a note on the T3 AE86 castor arms - If I were to do this again I would likely just use standard arms instead with polyurethane bushes.
Reason being that these things seem way overkill on weight and size, and also the adjustor part looks to have rusted which is going to make it a pain to adjust later on.
Where as the standard castor arms still seemed fine after 30 years on the road or whatever, rather than 10,000kms later looking a bit worse for wear.
Very high quality product dont get me wrong - but just not really ideal for my application I dont think.

I havent checked the rose joints but I consider them a maintenance item which will likely need replacing at some stage too.

0wssymu4.li4.jpg



Also the Aliexpress 'titanium' heat wrap is actually excellent. It's lasted way better than the fibreglass stuff I've used previously, and it's only having problems where I've been a noob wrapping it.
Even when banging it on the side of the car getting the exhaust in or out, it looks to hold up pretty well.

Reccomended! It looks rugged using hose clamps all over it, but works better than anything else I've tried and is easily adjustable if you need to rewrap a part or whatever.
The goal was to reduce under bonnet temperatures, I havent measured this either way but it seems to have made an improvement to intake manifold temperatures according to the hand-ometer.


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I have taken both of the front gaurds off, and it is absolutely shit caked in dirt! From some gravel bashing/nats/etc.
I wouldnt normally care except for that dirt holds moisture, which means rust of course.
Need to dig out the wheel well gaurds if they still fit, or come up with some other solution.
Anyone done anything like this before? Not too sure where to start.

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Annnnddddd another thing I want to fix, is that the wiring comes through the firewall at a really fiddly spot. It's only this way because it's how the factory loom needed to go, which is no longer relevant.

I think I'm gonna end up buying the 2.5 meter long look for the LInk, and run the link wiring all the way to the motor.
As the other problem that this would fix is the absolute clusterfuck of messy wiring under the dash that I can easily get rid of.

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It's just been an hour or two of basic spannering and I've got the whole front of the car off, and the motor and gearbox are about ready to come out.

 

Love how easy it is working on this thing!! And as time goes on I find ways to make it better and easier too.

Will get the engine crane tomorrow and hopefully have the motor and box apart some time over the weekend.

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Coupe Echo life!

 

dprkpzsb.gdw.jpg

 

 

Do you even lift, bro?
arijb3zw.egd.jpg

 

Oooohhhh, yep that'll do it...
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Centrifugal clutch conversion! haha.
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Flywheel still looks good and shold skim up fine! stoked. No idea why engine oil came out of the flywheel bolt holes though! Do they block off a gallery in the crank or something? Bizarre as there were no signs of oil leaking into the bell housing at all.
qrj1khex.xye.jpg
 

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  • 3 weeks later...

Hi, story time!
 

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Holy fuckaluckalucka the K20 motors have got so much more cam duration than a beams motor. And a bit more lift.
Apart from that the other specs seem reasonably similar to the M/T Altezza engine (Comparison is against my single VVTI engine)
Way smaller throttle body on a K20 which is odd. The big hp builds seem to go for gigantic throttle bodies though and 4" intake pipes.

 

And the age old question, 20v throttles on a beams motor, or standard manifold?

 

The standard intake manifold has 45mm diameter runners. With bell mouths on the end. In a fancy plenum with a big throttle body.

 

Silvertop 20v throttles at the throttle plate are 43mm diameter.

Blacktop 20v throttles at the throttle plate are 45mm diameter.

 

buuuutttt a throttle body still has the throttle shaft blocking some cross sectional area when it's open, so it's effective area is more like this:

itdbss5b.qus.jpg

So:

 

(Altezza manifold) 45mm dia no throttle: 1590mm square of cross sectional area

(Blacktop 4age)    45mm dia 4mm thick throttle shaft: 1410mm square of cross sectional area (88% area of standard runner)

(silvertop 4age)    43mm dia 4mm thick throttle shaft: 1280mm square of cross sectional area (80% area of standard runner)

You'd need a 47-48mm throttle body (if it had a 4mm shaft) to get a similar cross sectional area to a standard 45mm standard runner.

 

In other unrelated news also took the yellow car for a bit of a spin to blow the cobwebs out, still going strong!
(Or, at least as strong as a 3AU is capable of going haha)

 

jr2lfbhb.l3w.jpg
 

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  • 4 weeks later...
So the bellmouth turned up:
 
nkwljhi4.vjs.jpg

Good news is that its got a super thin wall thickness, so slots into the tapered part of the TB quite far.

So I'll be able to make the airbox a lot smaller than I was first expecting as its a bit tight near the radiator.

However the shape of the bellmouth itself isnt overly amazing, it's like its a flat outer part, then a rolled transition to a flat 45 degree section, then a rolled profile to straight pipe.
Rather than the ideal shape which is quarter of an ellipse.
Not sure if that makes any tangible difference however, but might try find something else similar with the better shape. It's probably this way because it's a zillion times easier to manufacture and no one notices the difference when buying one.
 

 
 
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Parts cutting was a success for the first half, all the bits fit up nicely with a tape test.
 

Now just waiting on getting it tigged together, then figure out some way to hold it up when it's in the car.
 

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  • 1 month later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Been making some slow but steady progress...

All of the engine sensors are tested and working fine now, E-throttle is great! I had a bunch of problems trying to get it calibrated, but narrowed it down to a wiring fault and got that resolved.

Still working on things like getting the cold start a bit nicer, getting the idle speed sorted and so on. But moving in the right direction.

I've started calibrating the knock sensor. Since the knock sensor is closer to one cylinder than the others, that cylinder will give a "louder" signal. So in the ECU software you need to amplify the signal of the far cylinders so they all read evenly.
I used the E-throttle idle control to set the idle at a hearty 4000rpm haha.
Then looked at the difference in knock sensor levels between cylinders.
This motor has the knock sensor located on cylinder number 3, because that's usually the one that will blow up first as it runs the hottest.

So cyl number 3 naturally gave the strongest signal and then the others tapered off. With the car running, and looking at the logs I got the signal "about right". Then started a datalog of the motor being held at 4000rpm for a minute or so.

To fine tune it from here I pulled the data out into a CSV file and then averaged the results and calculated what the new gain levels for each cylinder will need to be to make them super even.

4q1ifzxi.1dp.jpg

The knock sensor naturally records engine vibration under all circumstances, it can tell when knock happens because knock is a much stronger vibration through the block.

So you need to drive the car while it's not knocking and record the signal levels at various rpms to tell the ECU that this is the normal vibration level. Then if it's something like 20% higher than that, it registers it as knock and pulls ignition timing. If it consistently starts knocking on one cylinder first, then I can add an ignition trim to that cylinder to permenantly pull a little bit of timing out as a safety margin.

I've taken the car for a bit of a tootle up the road and back, but hesitant to drive it too far without an air filter.
Sooooooo my airbox thingy is most of the way there, I just need to figure out how to mount it and what to mount it to. Then one day finish making the other half, haha. will be interesting to see if there's any tangible improvements or whether there's no loss in reverting to a simpler design. But I'm well on track towards making it to the OS drags, and maybe some Hampton trackdays prior to that.

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All sensors tested and seems working well, except for the speedo drive so I'll have to recheck that.

 

Buuuuut good enough to go make some doort noises. Felt great taking the car out for a drive again after so long!

 

Finishing the airbox is in the too hard basket currently so I just fitted the bellmouth and coincidentally had a wide entrance pod filter that fits around the perimeter of that.

 

Results so far...

 

First thing is that the intake is frigging LOUD. as in, need earplugs sort of thing haha.

This is the difference in pressure drop (scale is in KPA) between old intake and decent bellmouth with pod filter straight on the TB:

 

t10tvifx.fam.jpg

Only drops 1kpa now, and only starting at 6500rpm+
So should be even better once the proper airbox is on there and getting some cold air!
 

Cant wait to get back to a trackday or to the OS drags!

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Been out driving it a bit, so far so good.

 

One annoying thing though is that the speedo and tacho are inaccurate. As in, if you make them accurate at say 5000rpm / 80kph they become inaccurate as the speed changes.

 

I used a test PWM to plot the changes on both and see if they were close to linear or quite a way off.

 

It looks as though the speedo is reasonably accurate from 80kph onwards but the tacho doesnt have a shit show of accuracy.

(The flatter the line is on the graph, the more accurate they are. Sloping line = bad )

 

yshlgczq.ufd.jpg

 

nbf0kjrm.wl1.jpg
 

I've asked the guys at Link to see if they can add the option of using a calibration table to setup the tacho and speedo instead of just a simple multiplier.

 

Also, a while back Glenn (CelicaRA45) Gave me some suggested settings for ignition timing for a standard engine.

I've been too chicken to advance the timing without any form of knock sensing, but I'm almost setup with that now so will smash a bit more timing in.
Looking at a graph of the difference there should be a few HP in it by whacking some timing in.

j05sce1u.i40.jpg


 

Been driving it around a bit more though and it's damn good fun!
I've set the E-throttle so that 70% on gas pedal is 50% plate opening...
It's now SO much nicer to drive at low load/rpm. So really happy with that.
Needs a bunch more kms on the clutch before testing out launch control though :D
 

5pymwdl2.yon.jpg
 

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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

Well, two mini-projects which have been dragging on for a while are having some meaningful progress made in last few weeks.

 

Link updated their firmware to allow for staged injection to work how I want it, so I dug out the manifold that Sentra Dave made for me (Big thanks!) and then using limited tools available currently (drill & rivets!) bodged together some crappy mounts for the first half of my airbox thingy.

 

Behold, my disastrous looking rats nest engine bay:

 

qw4q4le2.ltc.jpg

 

The first rule of trying to establish if something makes a difference for better or worse, is to isolate it as the variable, no other changes.

 

But meh, got both of these things sorted at the same time, and that's what I'm planning to run so will just chuck it all together haha. I can switch back to a pod filter when it's all tuned nicely to see if the differences come from the airbox or from the injection.
 

After some tinkering to get the AFRs correct, my fuel map is a very different looking place compared to before.

Oh, did someone say "Post some graphs Roman"?

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This is the comparison of fuel maps, with new setup vs old:

 

f0amnhyy.ff3.jpg
 

interesting to note the peaks and dips by comparison, especially around that mid range area.

I'm going to concentrate on adjusting the injector timing around these areas where its showing a big change, because I doubt that I could have lost or made that much extra power... It could be that fuel is spitting back out the top of the runners, so you need to make it "richer" to get the correct AFR.

 

No idea why how it could be so much leaner in that mid range part though, unless I've lost power there or this situation was happening previously and now isnt.
 

Although, the car no longer feels like it runs out of puff at 8100rpm so it could be a mix of that, + bellmouth intake doing its thing to breath easier at the top end.

Cant wait for drag day, and also Waipu cruise tomorrow!

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  • 2 weeks later...

OS drag day was yesterday, and it was a friggen blast!

 

My wideband shit itself before I finished tuning the staged injection, so bought an upgraded sensor that should last a bit longer (Bosch 4.9 instead of Bosch 4.2)

 

Then had one or two nights to try dial in the fuel for the staged injection and make sure it's all fine.

 

In desperation to be faster than last time, yanked out the passenger and rear seats as well as the belts, and made sure to start the day with a near empty tank of gas to be as light as possible.

 

Unfortunately however throughout the whole day I just couldnt get a clean run off the line at all.

 

The motor was running awesomely, I was ~10kph faster trap speeds than previous, but my best time was still half a second slower haha. (14.8 )

 

I tried a few tricks to remedy the situation...

 

Turned on launch control and set it at various rpm points, didnt really help. Took a bit of fiddling to get the launch control activation working how I wanted, as sometimes it was coming on while I was trying to do a burnout haha.

 

I was doing 3rd gear burnouts without trouble all day, tried for fourth.... baaaaddd idea haha. Ended up doing a gigantic clutch burnout which stunk out my car for the rest of the day haha. woops.

 

I also Setup an E-throttle map that would limit the throttle body to only opening half way in first gear. Didnt help much.

Also tried filling up the gask tank right to the brim, to see if more weight over the rear would help. But I just got slower and slower through the day haha.

 

I guess it's one of those things where you cant fix a physical problem (I need traction brackets!) with electrickery.

So I was a bit dissapointed with my times, but I was happy to get a trap speed that indicates its worthy of high 13s if it can get a good launch.

 

Still had a frigging awesome day though, its so cool when you have a really close run against someone. 

I had a camera setup in the car but the axle tramp was so bad that it was shutting off the camera haha!

 

But here's some footage that survived.

 

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Just before drag day, I took off my intake manifold and used Engineers Blue a vivid to colour the inside of the runners solid black as far up as I could reach.

 

With the idea of being able to check the spray pattern of the outer injectors, by seeing where it washes away the pen marks.

 

Interestingly near the base of the runners it was all still completely black, which would indicate that fuel isnt really pooling and running down, so much as maybe bouncing off the runner wall and then vaporizing. (this is good!)

 

Cant really take a photo to show it but it looks like something like this must be going on.

hr4ajluj.mmx.jpg
 

Next thing to sort out though is try get the fuel temps down, both of my fuel rails end up too hot to touch.

One thought is that although the main fuel rail is isolated from the engine block temperature by plastic riser blocks, the bolts that hold them in touch both so will conduct heat into the rail.

Otherwise could be that my fuel pump is just pumping the bejeezus out of the fuel and heating it up too much.

I'll try adding some insulating washers to the fuel rail first and then go from there.
If no luck I might look at options for slowing the pump down or adding a cooler.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Modelled my fuel lines, rail, hot bolts, fuel flow rates from pump etc etc to see what happens.

Looks as though just hot bolts holding the rail on are enough to send fuel temps up and up as the fuel circulates.

However adding a cooler with a little airflow through it and problem solved. Soooooooo..... I'll do that at same time I fit an adjustable FPR to get the pressure up a bit higher.

 

lbkzwjb0.jpn.jpg


Once I've got the fuel temperature and fuel pressure sensors fitted (as well as an adjustable FPR for higher pressure) I can switch over to a different fuel equation type in the ECU that should help keep it more accurate with changing conditions.

Not that it's awful currently, but something interesting to learn about.

 

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