Popular Post sheepers Posted November 30, 2019 Author Popular Post Share Posted November 30, 2019 made some covers for the cam wheels and belt. they'll get a coat of paint when i paint all the other bits. 2019-11-30_04-52-29 by sheepers, on Flickr 2019-11-30_04-52-17 by sheepers, on Flickr 2019-11-30_04-52-09 by sheepers, on Flickr 23 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post sheepers Posted December 3, 2019 Author Popular Post Share Posted December 3, 2019 rebuilding power steering pumps. ive done a few of these now and had great success with all of them. you might do it a different way, whatever, this is how i do it. firstly, take a picture of each stage of the disassembly, there are many subtle differences to the orientations and alignments that will fuck the whole thing up if you put it back together wrong so take pictures as you go. the pump off my UZ was really fucked, lots of really bad scoring on both the stater plates and the rotor, but the inside diameter of the eccentric ring was good so it could be fixed without to much drama. 2019-12-03_09-20-52 by sheepers, on Flickr 2019-12-02_06-38-54 by sheepers, on Flickr so, how to do? you need a good flat two sided stone. not one that has been used to sharpen chisels or knives but a flat one. i have one i only use for this type of work so i know its flat. you're going to be trying to polish the plates to within 0.01mm over the surface so the stone needs to be good. also so good cutting oil will help no end. the other thing you really need is a micrometer, for two reasons, obviously to measure the parts as you go, and the other reason is that the mic can give you a really good feel for where things aren't parallel or where the high spots are. once you give it a try you'll see what i mean. 2019-12-02_12-07-21 by sheepers, on Flickr so, mic all your parts and write down what each one measures. (this picture shows after stoning so there are two measurements but more on that later) 2019-12-02_06-28-53 by sheepers, on Flickr polish the parts on the stone using circular motion or a figure of eight motion (don't do long strokes along the stone because you'll grind the surface out of flat and its very hard to get it back) and rotate the every couple of passes so your pushing on a different part of the plate. use the mic to measure the plate and make sure its still flat and both sides are still parallel. keep going until the plate is smooth. i couldn't get the last deep score out of this plate so it will just have to live like this, its not to bad but these deformations allow oil pressure to get between the side plates and the rotor pushing them apart and you loose line pressure. 2019-12-02_12-07-14 by sheepers, on Flickr in the above picture you can see the scratch marks from the rough side of the stone. once you've got the scoring out and they are flat and parallel you can give them a polish on the smooth side of the stone. this serves two purposes, they need to be smooth so they work well and dont score again in service and it gives you a second chance to check your work. 2019-12-02_12-07-28 by sheepers, on Flickr you can see on the rotor the area to the right is not flat, that only showed up after smooth polishing. i had to go back and re-do it to get it flat. this meant that i had to remove 0.04mm from the rotor. because of that it meant that the vanes were to wide so i had to stone them too. to check that the vanes had correct clearance in the rotor i used the mic. in the two pictures you can see i set the mic on the rotor, then inserted a vane, i was easily able to move the vane in and out confirming the measurement. 2019-12-02_12-07-54 by sheepers, on Flickr 2019-12-02_12-08-02 by sheepers, on Flickr once i had the rotor flat and the vanes 0.01mm thinner that the rotor i needed to address the eccentric stater plate. this sets the spacing of the whole assembly and because i had removed so much material from the rotor there was now too much clearance between the rotor and the side plates. this pic shows the "after fixing the rotor fuckup" measurements. 2019-12-02_06-29-11 by sheepers, on Flickr you can see the initial clearance was about 0.04mm and i have removed 0.04 from the rotor so i had to remove the same from the stator plate (i didnt write down the final measurement for the eccentric plate in the picture so it still says 15.03 but i actually polished it to 15.00 to keep the 0.04mm clearance). so, once thats all done the rest is simple, new o rings, new seal and a new bearing (which cost the grand total of 38$) and the pump is good as new. hope this helps you in future, like i say, theres more than one way of fucking a cat but this is how i do it. 25 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post sheepers Posted December 3, 2019 Author Popular Post Share Posted December 3, 2019 in other news the alternator was fucked. surprisingly enough it was full of power steering fluid and dirt and fucked. so Nick the sparky got me a new one and i was able to finish up all the accessories on the front. ill move on to sorting the superdupercharger drive next. 2019-12-03_07-13-43 by sheepers, on Flickr 2019-12-03_07-13-51 by sheepers, on Flickr 18 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post sheepers Posted December 9, 2019 Author Popular Post Share Posted December 9, 2019 finished up the water pipe that goes under the manifold. it had to be modified to clear the superdupercharger manifold. 2019-12-09_08-34-58 by sheepers, on Flickr once i got that finished i thought it would be a good idea to rig up a pressure tester and test all the welds. 2019-12-09_08-34-45 by sheepers, on Flickr the only bit that leaked was the one bit i hadn't touched at all. the chem wash the block went through at the engine builder must have dissolved the schmutz holding it on. it was this plate. ive glued it back on now, but apart from that everything else is sealed up. 2019-12-09_08-34-36 by sheepers, on Flickr now i can put the manifold on for final. one step closer to a finished motor................. 24 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post sheepers Posted December 13, 2019 Author Popular Post Share Posted December 13, 2019 superdupercharger belt drive. i fucked around with a few different pulleys and whatnot but in the end it i realised it would be just as easy to use UZ cam belt tensioners so i did that. made a little spacer for the factory mounting and used the factory bolt for one and the other o just made a pedestal and welded it to the plate id already made. jobs a goodin. now i get to drive to the parts store eleven billion times trying to get the right length belt. 2019-12-13_04-15-57 by sheepers, on Flickr 2019-12-13_04-15-49 by sheepers, on Flickr 2019-12-13_04-15-39 by sheepers, on Flickr 2019-12-13_04-16-06 by sheepers, on Flickr 20 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post sheepers Posted December 14, 2019 Author Popular Post Share Posted December 14, 2019 superdupercharger pulley. i needed to space the pulley out somehow to line up with the rest of the belt drive. the pulley had a redundant boss at the front so i made use of that bit by machining more belt drive grooves into it. simple process of grinding up a tool steel tip with the right profile, matching as best as you can to the existing using the eyecrometer then touch cutting an existing groove to get your depth and spacing correct then away you go. 2019-12-14_01-10-57 by sheepers, on Flickr 2019-12-14_01-10-49 by sheepers, on Flickr 2019-12-14_01-10-41 by sheepers, on Flickr 2019-12-14_01-10-33 by sheepers, on Flickr 2019-12-14_01-10-25 by sheepers, on Flickr with that done i needed to make a spacer to move the pulley forward on the existing boss. i haven't shrunk the boss onto the superdupercharger shaft yet so i was able to use it to check the fits of the spacer i made. i used a piece of 4340 i had which was way to big for the job but its all i had. i back turned the spacer so i could part it off finished, that way all bores and all faces would be concentric, parallel and true to each other. the only piece of material i had was 110 OD which i had to turn down to 56 odd so there was a bit of mess and a few burns on my arms. all i gotta do now is drill the bolt holes and its done. the fit is exactly right, the two spigots fit with about 5 microns clearance so it just slides on perfectly. i didnt want the bolts to be taking any shear loading at all so its exactly how i wanted it. 2019-12-14_07-08-00 by sheepers, on Flickr 2019-12-14_07-08-18 by sheepers, on Flickr 2019-12-14_07-08-09 by sheepers, on Flickr 2019-12-14_06-33-17 by sheepers, on Flickr 28 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post sheepers Posted December 15, 2019 Author Popular Post Share Posted December 15, 2019 i finished the spacer by drilling the through holes then i put a very light coat of etch on it. that was enough to make it not fit so it needed a little polish. then i shrank the hub onto the superdupercharger shaft. it had to be pretty hot to grow enough to put on, as soon as it was on i suddenly realised that the heat might fuck the front seal so i wet it to try and cool it down. i hope like fuck i haven't coozed the front seal, will find out later i suppose. ill go buy the right bolts for it tomorrow and its all done. 2019-12-15_03-37-05 by sheepers, on Flickr 2019-12-15_03-36-55 by sheepers, on Flickr 2019-12-15_03-36-47 by sheepers, on Flickr 2019-12-15_03-36-39 by sheepers, on Flickr 27 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post sheepers Posted December 16, 2019 Author Popular Post Share Posted December 16, 2019 got the bolts all sorted for the superdupercharger drive. So far ive tried two belts and they were both to short. tomorrow im going to try the longest one available off the shelf in NZ and hope like fuck i can get it to fit. the other thing i did was make the new water neck to go round the drive belt. its probably a bit long but i wont know that until the motor and radiator are back in the car. 2019-12-16_05-54-42 by sheepers, on Flickr 2019-12-16_05-54-33 by sheepers, on Flickr 18 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post sheepers Posted December 17, 2019 Author Popular Post Share Posted December 17, 2019 coil mounts. i made a set of clamps to hold down the coils. 2019-12-17_04-57-49 by sheepers, on Flickr but i didn't like them so i binned them and made these plates instead. i have a full set of new plugs which are all black and it'll have all new wiring when its done. 2019-12-17_04-57-59 by sheepers, on Flickr 2019-12-17_04-57-40 by sheepers, on Flickr 2019-12-17_04-57-28 by sheepers, on Flickr 18 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post sheepers Posted December 18, 2019 Author Popular Post Share Posted December 18, 2019 the old "find the right length belt "dance. usually involves 7 trips to the parts store to get successively longer or shorter belts until you fluke the combo of one that the parts store actually has and one that actually fits. this time around i only had to buy 4 different belts before getting one that fits. this is the longest one available off the shelf in NZ, if this one didn't fit i would have had to rock auto some. anyway, it fits and thats the serpentine belt sorted. 2019-12-18_07-21-54 by sheepers, on Flickr 34 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post sheepers Posted December 19, 2019 Author Popular Post Share Posted December 19, 2019 painted engine bits. not sure if ive mentioned before but im going to repaint the RA28 to a modern mazda red. i have the paint code written done somewhere but its a 2017-18 mazda red that i really like. anywho, the silver/black combo of the engine is meant to work with that red, not the shit dirt black/purple it is now. now that the engine is getting close to finished ill start painting the engine bay. as always i want ot change a few things around and do a few things etter thatn before so ill be doing that soon. but first here's the engine in paint. 2019-12-19_05-31-21 by sheepers, on Flickr 2019-12-19_05-30-55 by sheepers, on Flickr 2019-12-19_05-30-46 by sheepers, on Flickr 2019-12-19_05-31-04 by sheepers, on Flickr 29 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post sheepers Posted December 20, 2019 Author Popular Post Share Posted December 20, 2019 motors all back together and pretty much ready to go back in the car. got a couple of little things left to tidy up but nothing major. and with that i started stripping out the engine bay for repaint. 2019-12-20_04-33-06 by sheepers, on Flickr 2019-12-20_04-35-02 by sheepers, on Flickr 23 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post sheepers Posted December 21, 2019 Author Popular Post Share Posted December 21, 2019 started cleaning/stripping the engine bay ready for paint. also started tidying up the wiring so its not in the engine bay. got a good chunk of it done, just need to extend the wires for the passengers side headlights etc and its done. ill probably start sanding today 2019-12-22_10-19-17 by sheepers, on Flickr 15 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post sheepers Posted December 23, 2019 Author Popular Post Share Posted December 23, 2019 Yay. So I started sanding and it became immediately apparent that there were a bunch of layers and lots of them are fucking nasty. There is a layer of black dulon in there which is fucking everything up. Nothing for it but to strip it all back to metal. Side sharn, I bought this car in 2006 but I'd seen the car in about 1999. At that stage it had a black engine bay and a 3T sitting in it. The rest was in primer. He must have primed over the black art some stage. So anywho, fast forward to today and most of the paint is gone. I'm feathering the edges where it's a real cunt to get to and hopefully the epotec will seal the nasties from coming through. Time will tell. On the plus side I'll probably get primer on it before crissy then it can sit for a while before I sand it. Give it some hope of settling down. Still got strut tops to do and the top of the firewall 30 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post sheepers Posted December 28, 2019 Author Popular Post Share Posted December 28, 2019 its never fun finding bodgy repairs that you then have to fix. i knew there was trouble under the bog in these two corners, i just didn't know how bad it was. its bad. the usual story of shoddy half arsed work. smash the rust in, weld a massive plate over the top then bog the shit out of it. and, as usual, it would have been quicker to fix it properly in the first place than doing what was done. this was done by David Holt (the colour blind car painter i bought the car off) somewhere between 1990 and 1996ish. luckily for me David cant weld either because i was able to remove the patches with just a screwdriver and bare hands. again, as is typical for this type of butchery, once the "repair" is removed the actual original car isnt in that bad condition, it would have been easier just to fix it correctly the first time. so now that ive got all the garbage out of the way ill go about making new pieces and welding it all back together. 2019-12-28_01-36-47 by sheepers, on Flickr 2019-12-28_01-36-56 by sheepers, on Flickr 2019-12-28_01-37-03 by sheepers, on Flickr 2019-12-28_01-37-10 by sheepers, on Flickr 2019-12-28_01-37-17 by sheepers, on Flickr 2019-12-28_01-37-27 by sheepers, on Flickr 2019-12-28_01-37-43 by sheepers, on Flickr 2019-12-28_05-23-37 by sheepers, on Flickr 15 4 2 14 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post sheepers Posted December 29, 2019 Author Popular Post Share Posted December 29, 2019 right so, rust repairs. usual story. cardboard template, cut the piece out, fold, fuck around, make the next bit. in this instance i was lucky to have an unmolested example to copy so i knew i got the patch the right shape. i just use basic tools, i think the fanciest thing i have is a shrinker/stretcher. anywho ive taken some fairly self explanatory photos of the process, only one that might need some explanation is welding up the gap. i use a copper plate behind the gap and weld onto that, the metal wont stick to the copper so it helps if you've got a gap to fill. 2019-12-29_03-56-09 by sheepers, on Flickr 2019-12-29_03-56-18 by sheepers, on Flickr 2019-12-29_03-56-25 by sheepers, on Flickr 2019-12-29_03-56-33 by sheepers, on Flickr 2019-12-29_03-56-52 by sheepers, on Flickr 2019-12-29_03-57-00 by sheepers, on Flickr 2019-12-29_03-57-08 by sheepers, on Flickr 2019-12-29_03-57-17 by sheepers, on Flickr 2019-12-29_03-57-25 by sheepers, on Flickr 2019-12-29_06-07-34 by sheepers, on Flickr 2019-12-29_06-07-41 by sheepers, on Flickr 2019-12-29_06-07-49 by sheepers, on Flickr 2019-12-29_06-07-57 by sheepers, on Flickr 38 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post sheepers Posted December 30, 2019 Author Popular Post Share Posted December 30, 2019 i carried on today with more bits. 2019-12-30_04-47-11 by sheepers, on Flickr 2019-12-30_04-47-00 by sheepers, on Flickr 2019-12-30_04-47-19 by sheepers, on Flickr then i started on the other side. i noticed as i went along that i had made a mistake on the drivers side and i wasn't sure if i should make the passengers side correctly and re make the drivers side. the more i made of the passengers side the more it became clear that id over compensated and made the passengers side wrong as well. so i shut the door, went inside and sulked. ive decided that im going to re make both sides because im not happy with the ones ive made. not the end of the world, two days work more or less but id rather have these bits right because they are the first bits ill see as i open the bonnet. 12 1 6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post sheepers Posted January 2, 2020 Author Popular Post Share Posted January 2, 2020 re-made the drivers side patch. im way happier with it. i took heaps of measurements off the RA23 to try and get it as close to factory as i could. the only thing i couldn't get right was the hole for the bonnet stopper rubber thingo. i dont know how but when the top of the chassis rail was last mangled by senior Holt the bolt hole moved in by about 5-7mm. this meant that the center line of the bottom fold didn't go directly through the center of the bolt hole as it does (as best as i can measure it with simple tools, its within +/- 2mm i reckon) on the RA23. its not the end of the world by a long margin, its interesting that there is a difference between the two, could be manufacturing tolerances? who knows. anywho, all that meant is that the circular shaped rebate that the stopper bolts into is offset from the center of the fold a bit. TBH its pretty hard to tell the difference between the two celicas and once its got paint on it you might not be able to see it at all. whatevs, its close enough now that im happy with it. on to the other side then i can splash some paint around. 2020-01-02_05-49-23 by sheepers, on Flickr 2020-01-02_05-49-15 by sheepers, on Flickr 2020-01-02_05-49-03 by sheepers, on Flickr 26 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post sheepers Posted January 4, 2020 Author Popular Post Share Posted January 4, 2020 re-did the passengers side. then it was time to start welding things into the car. coated the backs of everything with copper primer. then weld. it came out pretty good for a but joint that you cant get to the back of, its pretty flat as you can see, and its hollow as opposed to high with is great. 2020-01-04_05-03-02 by sheepers, on Flickr 2020-01-04_05-03-14 by sheepers, on Flickr 2020-01-04_05-02-45 by sheepers, on Flickr 2020-01-04_05-02-21 by sheepers, on Flickr 2020-01-04_05-02-14 by sheepers, on Flickr 2020-01-04_05-02-30 by sheepers, on Flickr 2020-01-04_05-02-37 by sheepers, on Flickr obvisly ill patch the hole at the back but i wanted to get the bottom part fixed in place before doing that. tomorrow ill do the passengers side and button up the last two holes and its done. 20 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post sheepers Posted January 5, 2020 Author Popular Post Share Posted January 5, 2020 today i welded passengers side in. came out super mint. 2020-01-05_03-32-57 by sheepers, on Flickr 2020-01-05_03-33-04 by sheepers, on Flickr 2020-01-05_03-33-30 by sheepers, on Flickr 2020-01-05_03-33-23 by sheepers, on Flickr 24 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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