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Mongol's 910 Bluebird


pies

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picked it up friday 13th evening (pfft bad luck my ass...) with a flat battery. jumped it and drove it to palmy where we had maccas, went out to head back to welly, and fuken battery was still dead. so after half of palmy turned up to help jump start the bitch (thanks richie/ron p, sprak, seedy_al, Tara, bunch of toyspeed cunts) we left it running for a few minutes and chatted for a bit.

then... caboon thought it would be funny to turn the car off. good one mutant. thats why you dont get thanked above.

so then we stole mutants battery to start the 910 and we were on the way.

almost ran out of gas but we made it to BP in foxton. then the fuken thing stalled as i was pulling up to the pump. so the fuken awesome cunt at BP foxton lent us some jumpers, and we were on our way again.

got it back all good. runs and drives fuken sweet. does mean launches thanks to boatlike suspension!!!!

Its a 1982 Nissan U910 Bluebird SSS

IRS

CA18E twin spark efi

plans are to put in a CA18DET and drop the shit out of it on some wide as fuck 15's and then add a few boso mods. Thinking about painting it. Seedy al seems to think Silver, im still not sure what colour though. though about a dark blue or green.

anyways, pics.

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And the best thing... yes. those k's are genuine!!

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  • 2 weeks later...

WOF RESULTS!

Not to bad, better than I thought it would be, heres the list


  • [*:12yhpgvl]high stop not working
    [*:12yhpgvl]No park brake
    [*:12yhpgvl]Need to sort a proper fuel cap
    [*:12yhpgvl]Lap belt at the rear is missing or broken
    [*:12yhpgvl]Rego plate light not working
    [*:12yhpgvl]Both rear tire side walls shot
    [*:12yhpgvl]Exhuast leak
    [*:12yhpgvl]And front tires shot.

not bad for a car that hasnt had a wof since 2005 :D

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Right mother fuckers, Pies Bluebird update

With pics!

Firstly. as said I have sorted out the high stop and numberplate light, though the drivers reverse light doesnt work, fuck, better remeber to fix that.

Also tried to adjust the hand brake, after discussions conclusion is the drivers side caliper has most likely sized up in the piston, so will need to remove that and sort it...

So

First pic is just pies car with no rear wheels, to prove something is getting done

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Me lipping out those rear guards so they no longer rub rub on the Street fins

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Me rofling for real Stz

(note pies great upside down photo taking technique.... fool!)

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And New rear muffler stz.

2 1/2 in and out. Could get a twin exit in the small size that the muffler is, so improvisation with a splitter is the key.

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having to reduce the 2 1/2 down the factor size exhuast.

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2 1/2 splittler action

(also note cut out rear valence area to get some clearence when this thing is fianlly balls to the ground))

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Only got that far, due to needing some 2 1/2 striaght pipe.

And me laughing at pies small penis action

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And random front bum shot

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That is all for now

Allan

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SMall update, got the dual pipes welded on, and the muffler welded to the origanl zuast

Still needs a little work for wof, but Meh, will get there soon as.

On hOist Action

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The Muff with duals, note, Pies did the welding on that part......

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Twins for thw wins

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And yes, it is a bluebird

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Allan

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more for my reference than anything else. but heres MY plan for suspension. weather we follow this or not is another story all together lol

S13 Front Strut Upgrade

To do this conversion the following parts are needed:

* s13 Silvia/180SX front struts (Preferrable coilovers, with adjustable tops - explained further down)

* s13 Hubs

* s13 Brakes (discs/calipers) or alternative (r32 etc)

How it's done:

* Unbolt your struts

* Disconnect tie rod ends

* Remove old struts

* Bolt s13 hub to the lower control arm

* Insert struts (see note below) and attach to hubs

Once you have done this you will notice that the hub sits a lot higher up in the arch than the original 910 strut did. DO NOT PANIC! Once the brakes and wheel is replaced and the car lowered, the wheel is in the original correct position.

NOTE: THE S13 STRUT TOPS HAVE DIFFERENT BOLT SPACING (PCD) THAN THE BLUEBIRD, YOU HAVE TO HAVE THE STRUT TOP PCD CHANGED TO SUIT A BLUEBIRD!!

This can be done by either getting new plates machined up, or swapping the bluebird tops/springs across (which is also uncomfirmed at this point), and this also depends on the type of coilovers you have.

You also have to where the tie rod end on the steering rack bolts into. Skim the very

top of the hub where the tie rod end sticks through with an angle grinder a tiny bit to

get the castellated nut in the right position.

You will also need to wind out your tie rod ends somewhat, as the s13 has a wider track width than the 910, otherwise your wheels will be toed out horribly and you'll need to tow it to a wheel alignment place as the car will be physically un-driveable.

Now that your struts are in, we deal with the brakes. You have heaps of choices, wether it be s13 single piston calipers, r33 non turbo twin piston (slide type) calipers, or r32/z32 4 piston calipers with thicker discs. However, if you use the z32/r32 rotors, you need to have them re-drilled to suit 4 x 114.3 stud pattern. Attach brake lines (custom ones might be necessary - I used the series 3 910 flexi lines from my old calipers with a cut down banjo bolt.. this will work, but its advisable to get proper lines for them eventually), and don't forget to bleed your brakes.

Reason for using the coilover type suspension: Standard s13 struts have a wider spring base than a Bluebird, and they struts will fit - BUT - they will hit on the inside of of the strut towers, which is why the narrower struts are preferred. Another reason, is that the standard s13 tops do not bolt into the bluebird tower, the PCD is different (as explained above) and the beauty with the adjustable tops is you have instant camber change if you ever plan to take your car racing.. do this when you get a wheel alignment.

You can use s13's in the rear also, just drill a hole in the in the strut mount on the chassis to accomodate the s13's 2 holes apposed to bluey 3, also so I have heard the bush at the bottom where it mounts to the diff requires changing as they are different pretty simple really,

It's easier to change the strut tops, rather than re-drill your towers

And the bottom bush doesn't need changing, it should fit straight in there (does for IRS at least)

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Stole the work camera last night for a few pics. forgot the tripod though so half of them didnt come out :(

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With fatcunt Al on the boot...

lowering is being put off for a week cos we gotta go to Viking Town for some parts this weekend.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Its official

cars hate me.

was up at blanketmans this arvo changing the coils over, went to start it. hmm... thats weird. kept seizing up. finall got it going fter a few minutes... and oh shit. smoke. everywhere. couldnt see where i was reversing

turns out i have a blown head gasket!

so... i guess i have to find a turbo engine now. and it wont be at the nats :(

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  • 3 weeks later...

sneak peak. still along way to go though. hopefully the loom arrives tonight. then we have to wire everything up and do exhaust. fix what ever is missing. doesnt sound like much. but when you only have a few hours a night to work on it, it all adds up really quick :(

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so the engine is in. we are just waiting on wiring, which could be here tonight. hopefully will be here tonight

we (al and myself) also spent last night getting the front end sitting right, and marvelling at how low the back is, and how sexy it looks...

front (hasnt had a chance to settle yet)

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rear... after it has settled

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  • 4 weeks later...

so. tonight we got it started and running and powering itself.

Alan took the first drive... hmm... smokey...

I went second... hmmmmm... still smokey.

drove back into the lockup... ah fuck. left a breather pipe of and oil has gone everywhere... poos!

so, breather pipe back on and we decide to do a compression test...

this is where i was going to paste alot of swear words. but im too tired to do much typing now.

cylinder 1: 180

cylinder 2: 180

cylinder 3: 130

cylinder 4: 160

so poos. 50 down on cylinder 3 :(

anyone got any ideas? or should i just bite the bullet, reg on hold, lock it up for a few months and try save some coin for a ca18det.

fuck off im not selling it you cunts. i had too much fun driving it before we compression tested :P

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  • 2 weeks later...

Just a bit of an update:

Taken it for a few drives now. Need to change the front crank seal cos that appears to be shagged. The timing is still out causing it to idle like shit, but we will wait till the front seal is done before touching that. Coilpacks are all sweet and firing correctly.

having issues with suspension still. the R32 struts are too low on standard body. the wheels hit the top of the inner gaurd and act more like a brake than anything, so im going to use s13 bits to raise it up a little, untill the time comes when we are going to modify the inner rear gaurd a little (read: attack with angle grinder, mig, and panel steel)

So thats pretty mcuh where its at. its driving, but not very well. needs more money pumped into it, so hopefully now i've sold the truck and payed off some debt i should be able to free up a bit more money for the new engine :)

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