BlownCorona Posted December 21, 2013 Share Posted December 21, 2013 i used to work as super cheap and would never sell anyone that aussie export shit, its absolutly horrendous, never consistant spraying finish, the only consistant thing about that paint is that it will never come out right. on the other hand, the other cheap super cheap (SCA) branded paint they sell for like 10 bucks is actually pretty nice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chriscross Posted December 21, 2013 Share Posted December 21, 2013 lol! the septone iv use in boots and floor pans etc the 1k satin black 4L tin. 2k enamel is not bad. painted a drift hack in it I while back still pretty glossy. still takes a while to harden. they used 2k enamel etc in the 70s on nz new cars before 2pac never come out. think theres a 2k enamel clear but not sure? iv painted engines in 2pac soild colours and it works fine, never tried enamel engine paint before. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
danger Posted December 22, 2013 Share Posted December 22, 2013 wat. 2k= tupac. You mean 1k enamels that don't have a hardener but use enamel spraying thinner Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bubblegoose Posted December 22, 2013 Share Posted December 22, 2013 nitro, enamel and lacquer should all be avoided for anything other than VL commadores 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chriscross Posted December 22, 2013 Share Posted December 22, 2013 lol or caravans ! 2k or if you want to call it 2pac all use hardeners, its a two part system( colour or clear plus hardener) 1k or lacquer if you want to call it is a one part, so no hardener. basically air dry. both 2k and 1k use there own thinners. enamel is different type of paint witch comes in 2k or 1k. but like bubblegoose 1k (lacquer), enamel are not the best. hope that sounds right haha! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Testament Posted December 22, 2013 Share Posted December 22, 2013 I think we went over this. 2k or 1k are very general terms meaning if addition of hardener is required and need to be qualified with what they are exactly, enamel, lacquer, epoxy, polyurethane, or heck knows what else Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
legoman Posted December 22, 2013 Share Posted December 22, 2013 hey ya'll been a while/forever, but Santa has come early with a brand spanking roll cage installed to my almost race car and i have to paint it over the holiday break. Have chosen to brush on por15 and have some commercial cleaner/degreaser for cleaning down cage first. What prep work do I need to do after cleaning it all? Any tips/hints appreciated also. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spencer Posted December 22, 2013 Share Posted December 22, 2013 If its not rusty use something else. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bling Posted December 22, 2013 Share Posted December 22, 2013 Hammerite is pretty good. I brushed a bike frame with it and it came up mint. POR15 will need a topcoat in that situation, so seems like a lot of extra work for no gain. As mentioned too, unless it's rusty, it's not going to be suited. I have both products in the cupboard, but each are suited to different situations. POR15 will cost twice as much at least, then still need a top coat lol. If you MUST use POR15, buy the POR15 cleaner and metal prep. Using other products before it, then painting it on something not rusty and likely smooth will not likely give very good results. Wear a mask with proper filters too, it's harmful as fuck stuff. tl;dr, what Spencer said. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
legoman Posted December 23, 2013 Share Posted December 23, 2013 aye, so por15 is what's in the shed and have por15 degreaser too so was just gonna use that but this why im asking because painting shit ain't my forte. So hammerite seems pretty straight forward (after quick google session) and needs little to no prep which suits me. Another item on the list is to remove the factory interior floor pan coating, is there a specific product that I should be looking for to re-coat this? Thanks again for the advice Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spencer Posted December 23, 2013 Share Posted December 23, 2013 I just do everything like that in epoxy primer and the 2k urethane on top, I get a cheap industrial 2k black that is super hard wearing and looks good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
QCADTA Posted December 23, 2013 Share Posted December 23, 2013 hey ya'll been a while/forever, but Santa has come early with a brand spanking roll cage installed to my almost race car and i have to paint it over the holiday break. Have chosen to brush on por15 and have some commercial cleaner/degreaser for cleaning down cage first. What prep work do I need to do after cleaning it all? Any tips/hints appreciated also. Dont use por 15 where the sun can get to it, it doesnt like UV and have seen it turn to a shit powder unless you paint over it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bubblegoose Posted December 23, 2013 Share Posted December 23, 2013 I just do everything like that in epoxy primer and the 2k urethane on top, I get a cheap industrial 2k black that is super hard wearing and looks good. this Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
legoman Posted December 23, 2013 Share Posted December 23, 2013 I just do everything like that in epoxy primer and the 2k urethane on top, I get a cheap industrial 2k black that is super hard wearing and looks good. chur any useful hints for removing the old coating? tools etc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjrstar Posted December 23, 2013 Share Posted December 23, 2013 I'm pretty happy with a decent cup style wire wheel on the angle grinder for nailing old paint / general mank from the underside bits of cars, make sure you have safety glasses as the wire strands exit at 38,000 KPH. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Testament Posted December 23, 2013 Share Posted December 23, 2013 paintstripper works well for large relatively flat areas, scratch up old paint with rough sandpaper then apply liberally and cover with glad wrap Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
downtrail Posted December 23, 2013 Share Posted December 23, 2013 when i painted my roll cage the old mans mate gave me this sticky as stuff that was like lime green / yellow / transparent cant remember what it was called to put on the bare metal first. being impatient painted it on when i was cold and it took around 2 weeks to go off lol. any way it was hard as rock and impossible to sand back lol then waked on a 2k white over top of it. this was about 5 years ago and not one spot of rust has shown up anywhere somebody might know what its called but i recommend it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
danger Posted December 24, 2013 Share Posted December 24, 2013 Probably just an etch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bubblegoose Posted December 24, 2013 Share Posted December 24, 2013 epoxy, going by the sticky description (or a jar full of rust eating semen) 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlownCorona Posted December 24, 2013 Share Posted December 24, 2013 I also like wattle kill rust for an easy to use primer top coat combined paint. Painted heaps of alloy rims and my coffee table in it and it has not chipped or rusted or faded from uv Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.