PAINT THREAD

[JamesWalker]

I'm doing some repairs on an old house bus and some of it has no access for cavity wax. I've only done cars and theres always some way to get the nozzle in there.

I could drill inside but I dont want to start drilling holes in there and then find I can't get to the right spot as the structure inside is not clear.

I dont really want to drill the outside then leave random grommets in it.

My working theory is to drill a hole from the outside, say 6-8 mm, enough to get the wand around. Do the cavity wax first, epoxy next, then polyurethane sealer the hole and fill over it. 

Does this sound like the right way/any suggestions/objections?

 

[Bling]

If there was an option to put that hole inside the bus, I would do that. I would then just add a bung after doing the cavity wax. Trying to fill a hole after spraying the cavity with wax just doesn't sound ideal to me. I can't comment from a structural point of view, but don't imagine a few 8mm holes here and there is going to compromise the structure? It's really hard to say without seeing what you can see, what the best way to do it is. You mentioned not knowing where the structure is from inside, so there is that problem. But I would personally always try put the whole somewhere water isn't going to get to. 2c.

[JustHarry]

23 hours ago, JamesWalker said:

I'm doing some repairs on an old house bus and some of it has no access for cavity wax. I've only done cars and theres always some way to get the nozzle in there.

I could drill inside but I dont want to start drilling holes in there and then find I can't get to the right spot as the structure inside is not clear.

I dont really want to drill the outside then leave random grommets in it.

My working theory is to drill a hole from the outside, say 6-8 mm, enough to get the wand around. Do the cavity wax first, epoxy next, then polyurethane sealer the hole and fill over it. 

Does this sound like the right way/any suggestions/objections?

 

You'll want to cavity wax last. Any wax anywhere near the paint is going to be a bad time 

[chasinthemirage]

Can someone educate me on automotive paint types plz? Kinda keen to have a jam at painting a car myself but a little apprehensive about the PPE and equipment (mainly the PPE side of it) that's required when using 2k paint. From my Googling it seems that a lot of the smaller 3M type half respirators aren't suitable for 2k and I haven't got the budget for a supplied air system. What's the minimum requirement for safely spraying 2k? Had a wee encounter with a poorly sealed mask once upon a time and would like to avoid a repeat of this. 

Failing 2K being an option, are there any other paint types out there that would be a suitable alternative for spraying a car that's likely going to spend most of its life garaged when not being driven? My main concern is keeping it weatherproof and rust free for as long as practically possible rather than having a showcar finish. Happy to have a jam at it myself at the risk of the odd run etc if it means it can be usable again without having to fork out thousands.

[Bearded Baldy]

Got a tin garden shed? Buy a tin of wattyl killrust and some turps to thin it with. Easy practice. No primer needed etc. Safe with a halfmask 3m jobbie so far.

Done 3 4x4s with it so far, only issues have been my lack of talent, holds up quite well too.

[Nominal]

On 08/03/2026 at 20:42, chasinthemirage said:

Can someone educate me on automotive paint types plz? Kinda keen to have a jam at painting a car myself but a little apprehensive about the PPE and equipment (mainly the PPE side of it) that's required when using 2k paint. From my Googling it seems that a lot of the smaller 3M type half respirators aren't suitable for 2k and I haven't got the budget for a supplied air system. What's the minimum requirement for safely spraying 2k? Had a wee encounter with a poorly sealed mask once upon a time and would like to avoid a repeat of this. 

Failing 2K being an option, are there any other paint types out there that would be a suitable alternative for spraying a car that's likely going to spend most of its life garaged when not being driven? My main concern is keeping it weatherproof and rust free for as long as practically possible rather than having a showcar finish. Happy to have a jam at it myself at the risk of the odd run etc if it means it can be usable again without having to fork out thousands.

You can buy 1K paint (non-catalysed)

I wouldn't use 2K without the proper gear (although I have sprayed 2K epoxy with a normal respirator and I'm still alive) 

[chasinthemirage]

@Nominal do you know what 1K is like longevity wise? Very mixed reviews on the internet but some of that may be based on 1K spray cans. 

[Nominal]

They painted cars with enamel or acrylic for a long time before 2K came in, if you do a proper job I wouldn't worry about it.

A DIY job probably won't be as nice as a pro 2K job but will be a lot cheaper!

Something like this should be fine

https://reseneauto.co.nz/centari-l400-1k-acrylic-lacquer-custom-colour-mix-v-ala

[Bearded Baldy]

That looks alot like what i painted the work ute in a few years ago, bought from resene i am pretty sure.

Used some more of it today to respray the bonnet of the workshop cubay. Will check the tin tomorrow.

Very diy friendly, not super noxious in the fume department but halfmask is a must.

[Bearded Baldy]

I was wrong. Did buy it from resene, but a different product.

Does require mixing as 2k, but have had no ill effects from only using a 3m halfmask so far. Ask me again in 20 years i guess.

[tortron]

Most of the isocyanates are in the 2k clear.

A single stage top coat is relatively low danger. Don't let me talk down H&S. But you wear gloves and overalls, and a 3m half mask with correct filters (i have about 2000 of them, il send you some, with mask on, cut ipen and crush a lemon, if you can smell it your face seal is no good), and safety glasses. A box fan with an air filter strapped to it for fresh air flow to blow the fumes out, and you are doing pretty well for painting one car once a year

 

 

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[Bling]

Your eyes can absorb the good stuff faster than other areas. So you really want to protect them in some way as much as your breathing. I considered it cheap insurance when I was doing my project to get a full mask, they seem a lot more spendy when I just did a quick look though. I wasn't spraying, but was brushing on 2k epoxy in tight spaces so got one for that reason. I use the same mask when i'm chemical spraying my roof too, just need new filters every time I do that job.

[tortron]

Yea second to the eyes is armpits and taint for fast absorbing chemicals lol

[Bling]

Ah, I never thought to wear pants, fuck.

[Bearded Baldy]

Oh yeah, i always wear gloves and goggles, i thought that was an obvious thing so didn't mention it.

 

Listening to folk in rehab 20 years ago was when i learned how absorbant a bunghole is. Suddenly my drug and alcohol habits didn't seem so bad since i hadn't, and still haven't, slipped a tab up my arse to get partying faster.

Eyeball shots on the other hand....

[JamesWalker]

Any advice on spray painting with "normal" paint?

The paint I've been provided for this job is Resene supergloss. I guess its house paint, sort of? It says you can spray it with the right thinners (resenes).

It says 4hrs between coats. My main concern is runs and how heavy to go progressively through the coats.

I've only sprayed 2k so I'm not sure how the process transfers without the quick flash off time.

 

[Positive Ape]

What are you painting?

[JamesWalker]

2 hours ago, Positive Ape said:

What are you painting?

Bus. Its oil based and not my choice of paint.

[tortron]

You would get a good finish off the appropriate roller with that one of mums busses had the roof done with that resene paint that way and it was pretty good at self leveling

[Tiger Tamer]

On 13/03/2026 at 10:01, Bling said:

Ah, I never thought to wear pants, fuck.

There was a car painter that used to paint cars naked here in NZ. Used to paint a lot of hot rods etc. Can't remember his name. Didn't want any lint etc to get in his paint work. Notice I said lint and not fluff. I think I will leave there ha ha.