cute wee gem Posted September 2, 2006 Share Posted September 2, 2006 15%ish of thinners, lots of paint - little bit of thinners Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cute wee gem Posted September 2, 2006 Share Posted September 2, 2006 Thinners isn't a major part of the actual coat, it just thins it out so its sprays better.. What I'd do is add a little bit to some paint and spray it and if it sprays ok keep going, if its not coming out of the gun very well then add some more, but don't put heaps in cause you will get runs and a generally crap coat Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
P_Star Posted September 2, 2006 Share Posted September 2, 2006 wicked. cheers for the help dude. wish me luck off i go Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avenger79 Posted September 5, 2006 Share Posted September 5, 2006 wish me luck kinda sounded like you needed it... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cute wee gem Posted September 20, 2006 Share Posted September 20, 2006 I'm planing on painting my block which I've degreased as well as the other bits that are going to be painted, do I need to do anything else to prep them? Also, obviously I need high temp paint. I want to do the extractors as well (If thats a good idea?), any specific brand I should get, and what temps will the block/extractors get to so I know what to get.. Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raizer Posted September 20, 2006 Share Posted September 20, 2006 I wouldn't bother painting the extractors, get them powder coated or pro coated etc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cute wee gem Posted September 20, 2006 Share Posted September 20, 2006 that cost lots though doesn't it?.. this isn't a big budget project. I'm still at school etc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raizer Posted September 20, 2006 Share Posted September 20, 2006 Powder coating can be real affordable aye, depends on the shop doing it, mine cost $25 to coat Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cute wee gem Posted September 20, 2006 Share Posted September 20, 2006 oh ok, what are the benefits? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avenger79 Posted September 20, 2006 Share Posted September 20, 2006 I'm planing on painting my block which I've degreased as well as the other bits that are going to be painted, do I need to do anything else to prep them? the original paint isnt flaking off is it?? if so get it blasted/dipped. NO oil can be on teh block(as you should already kno) Also, obviously I need high temp paint. I want to do the extractors as well (If thats a good idea?), any specific brand I should get, and what temps will the block/extractors get to so I know what to get.. Cheers urm iv forgotn the brand we use,you can brush or spray it.will check tomorrow quite a few people just pick up aerosols,results differ.iv never used them,so i carnt eleborate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cute wee gem Posted September 20, 2006 Share Posted September 20, 2006 nothings flaking as such, but if you put petrol/degreaser and a mix of other random substances and scrub it, it starts to come off. It is well degreased and the paint left on it isn't going to come off I doubt. So nothing else after degrease? just spray the paint? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avenger79 Posted September 20, 2006 Share Posted September 20, 2006 would pay to etch it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raizer Posted September 20, 2006 Share Posted September 20, 2006 oh ok, what are the benefits? Doesn't burn off, iv used so called high temp (inc: exhaust/brake caliper/engine and a fire place stuff) paints on exhaust manifolds before and it starts burning/browning straight away. Powder coat may discolor a lil but if its down well wont just burn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
escort mk1 Posted September 28, 2006 Share Posted September 28, 2006 Hey guys, i have a mk1 escort for my first project. Im at the stage where the engine is fully rebuilt and it is rust free. I would love to go all out and spend 5 grand on the paint job but i just don't have the cash being a student. So im think of doing the preping my self. I have never preped a car or painted a car and would like some advice. first of all how to prep. I have the car rust free and reasonably straight. Have a few dents which i will deal with later. First how to prep and prime the engine bay? Any adivice would be great. Im thinking of painting it ford blue and told the car needs to be straight as a nail if it going to be blue. There are photos of my car on teh project section under Daves mk1 escort. Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mk5corty Posted September 28, 2006 Share Posted September 28, 2006 Remove old paint is the first step, so give the engine bay a good clean and if the old paint is in good nick then you can sand it with say 320 - 400 grit else use paint strippers but beware this will likely screw up any bog work. The you need to decide what kind of paint, lacquer or 2k(arcylic urethane generally), 2k is newer more durable etc but can be more expensive although not by much but it is more toxic so get a good respirator and chnage the SPRAY PAINTING catridges often. Lacquer is the same as the paint that is on there unless it has recently been repainted (last 5 years maybe last eight) and will not have any adesion problems provided sanding is right and the panel is clean. With 2k It is best to seal the old paint but not necessary although you run the risk of possible colour bleed through or average adhesion, this increase the cost. So which ever system you choose lay down the primer on your 400 grit sanded surface. MAking sure it ios throughly cleaned with wax and grease remover. Apply 3 good wet coats (20 mins in between), leave overnight and then sand with 600 until smooth, then apply colour usually 3 wet coats if going to use clearcoat 4-5 coats if not (you must use clearcoat with metallic finishes if you wish to sand and compound later or if using lacquer) Follow the flash times and apply the clearcoat, depends how you spray it may be a good enough finsih to just leave after 3 coats of clear. NOTE: if you are using 2k you use reducer and hardener as per instructions if using lacquer use thinners 1:1 or 1.5:1 with paint, plus use it to clean gun after. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
escort mk1 Posted September 29, 2006 Share Posted September 29, 2006 Hey thanks for that! Yea i am going to paint it with 2k paint. So is 320 the best to start of? and then primer 3 coats, then do i sand the primer with 400 grit. Whats the best technique for spraying the paint on. Should i do the whole car at one time, or should i do it panel by panel? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cute wee gem Posted September 29, 2006 Share Posted September 29, 2006 You can do it either way, but doing it all at once is easier Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mk5corty Posted September 29, 2006 Share Posted September 29, 2006 IF the paint is in good nick then sand allround with 320 or 400 grit, else remove the paint until you find good nick paint. Apply primer, can be done in stages like panel by pane or whole car up to you. Apply the 3 coats then sanding is done with 600grit wet till smooth. Then colour. Colour is best applied all at once same with clear, this makes sure colours are the same, you may put too many coats or too thick or conditions may slightly change the shade of your paint. You may have to apply the paint several panels a time if your compressor cant handle, i have two 2.5 40 litre compressors linked and it manages to keep up but one cant handle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
escort mk1 Posted September 30, 2006 Share Posted September 30, 2006 cheers. Dad has a huge 3 phase compressor so should be sweet. Im thinking of painting it 2k ford blue. Its not metalic or pearl so do i still need a clear coat? Over what time frame can the whole process take? should i try and do it in like a week or take my time? How do i go about taking the windows out with the seals and stuff? also should i do the bonnet and boot and doors seperate as well? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cute wee gem Posted September 30, 2006 Share Posted September 30, 2006 clear all depends on the type of paint, I can't remember which type it is but some you don't have to clear but I prefer clearing anyway, for the mean cut n polish at the end so you get no orange peel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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