Raizer Posted August 4, 2006 Share Posted August 4, 2006 but you run the risk of leaves and shit gettin stuck in the paint. + mozzies seem to be atracted to fresh paint fumes! I'd just sand the car back with 220ish sand paper then prime So you dont have to have it realy smooth before primer? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avenger79 Posted August 4, 2006 Share Posted August 4, 2006 but you run the risk of leaves and shit gettin stuck in the paint. + mozzies seem to be atracted to fresh paint fumes! I'd just sand the car back with 220ish sand paper then prime So you dont have to have it realy smooth before primer? nope.you smooth the primer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raizer Posted August 4, 2006 Share Posted August 4, 2006 Iv blocked most of the body with back400-500wet. Was told to get the best finish you had to do it, thats 1/2 the reason my vans taking so long = i hate sanding Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cute wee gem Posted August 4, 2006 Share Posted August 4, 2006 Is your van REALLY straight?, if so you can paint straight over the paint, just throw down sealer first.. but being and old car i doubt its straight unless its been panelled and painted before and your doing a colour change Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cute wee gem Posted August 4, 2006 Share Posted August 4, 2006 Yeah mozzies are cunts, gotta paint before about 2-3 in the afternoon when outside, personal experience with the mozzies haha. Just go over what you have sanded with 220ish.. then prime and your all go You might be able to prime straight over, but I think the point of primer is to etch into the scratches? Could be wrong though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raizer Posted August 4, 2006 Share Posted August 4, 2006 Is your van REALLY straight?, if so you can paint straight over the paint, just throw down sealer first.. but being and old car i doubt its straight unless its been panelled and painted before and your doing a colour change Getting there, but na it was realy rough when i got it, also had previsly been resprayed years ago and they had done a shit job + touched up with house paint. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raizer Posted August 4, 2006 Share Posted August 4, 2006 Do you need a differant primer or any thing for f/glass? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cute wee gem Posted August 4, 2006 Share Posted August 4, 2006 Not that I know of, highly doubt it.. did f/glass flares on my old 20 the same as the rest of the car Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avenger79 Posted August 4, 2006 Share Posted August 4, 2006 whats it getting painted with, 1 or 2pak? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raizer Posted August 4, 2006 Share Posted August 4, 2006 Im not to sure yet, iv got 4l of basic spraying enamel, but am thinking of geting 2pak + clear, depends on who ends up painting it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonny Posted August 4, 2006 Share Posted August 4, 2006 http://www.neilslade.com/Papers/Painting.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cute wee gem Posted August 4, 2006 Share Posted August 4, 2006 Now thats got me confused, about wetting the floor.. when I did the Colt the guy who set it all up for me wet the floor before we rolled the car in there, it was dryish before I got cracking on the paint though, Avenger what do you do? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avenger79 Posted August 4, 2006 Share Posted August 4, 2006 theres so many things wrong with that link.haha using masking tape to rip out a run wetting the floor is sweet,as long as its not freezing cold weather/water. make sure the floors clean anywho Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cute wee gem Posted August 4, 2006 Share Posted August 4, 2006 Hmmm, is there ways to get runs out before it dries?, I got a few runs once, just cut them out though.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avenger79 Posted August 4, 2006 Share Posted August 4, 2006 generally,no.just end up making it worse Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avenger79 Posted August 4, 2006 Share Posted August 4, 2006 there easy enough to take out once its dryed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazy_rich Posted August 4, 2006 Share Posted August 4, 2006 pasint it brown dude ever seen a pimp ass done up car painted brown? i know i havent. shit, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avenger79 Posted August 4, 2006 Share Posted August 4, 2006 ^wtf?!........uh nah forget it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cute wee gem Posted August 4, 2006 Share Posted August 4, 2006 pasint it brown dude ever seen a pimp ass done up car painted brown? i know i havent. shit, http://www.toyota3tc.com/forum/viewtopi ... &start=165 Don'y know if you would call this pimp.. but IMO its awesome Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mk5corty Posted August 4, 2006 Share Posted August 4, 2006 using masking paper to remove a run is more common that you would expect. It means that you can feather it out if you are only a few coats in without having to wait for it to dry or without ever touching the car with sandpaper, usefull technique in high volume shops. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.