PAINT THREAD

[mk5corty]

With ppg dulon 3 or 4 coats will see you right. Lay the first 2 or 3 down then leave overnight to dry, hit it with 600 grit then lay the last coat. If you notice it is quite orange peely on your clear then 3 coats, 600grit it, 4th coat then wetsand and compound as per usual, if your quite handy with the spraygun and dont need to compound, 2 coats can suffice.

[Requiemk]

I have a 3.5l of colour (white) which will do 3 coats + some extra for boot and whatever. SO i am going to need to do at least 4 clears to get a shiny finish? seems quite excessive.

[mk5corty]

if you dont need to wetsand, 2 will do, reasonable chance you will and 3-4 coats saves you from cutting through easily.

[My name is Russell]

Have gotten to the stage were im wet sanding the primer and i can see small scrathces in some places, probably from using to rough a grit sandpaper prior to primer.

Do i need to worry about these or will the paint fill them in? you can not feel them only see them when the light is on an angle.

So was thinking there must be the following options

A) sand rite back with a finer grit paper?

Apply some high build up primer?, or

C) she will be rite?

Thanks in advance.

[treggo]

Better to be safe than sorry I guess. Sort it now and it won't give you issues.

[mk5corty]

Trying to fill scratches with paint doesnt work very well, especially if your using 1k, tends to follow the scratch and trasnfer it through, cant judge without seeing it but if you have the primer based then keep sanding, if not chuck some more primer on, or if your using 1k you can hit it with 2 coats of colour, then sand with 600grit, hit with a 3rd coat of colour or until hiding then clear.

If you just paint over them, more than likely they will be magnified.

[My name is Russell]

Ok cool cheers, I will grab some more primer and try build it up with that.

[Testament]

The front of the 131R is completely stripped at the moment, most of it is bare metal and what isnt has been given a real shitty brushed on coat of who knows what, which I will probably remove. Also it has a replacement LH guard which is orange where the rest of the car is blue.

Now I figure I will remove and weld up what rust I can get at and POR15 what i cant get at. Now is it a good thing to POR15 the wheel wells and underside? they say how hard that shit is = good against stone chips etc.? Whats the next step for the rest of the engine bay and the one guard?

bare metal areas = etch primer?

orange guard = just sand back a bit?

what about the edge between the stripped bare metal area and the rest of the car?

I dont really want to paint the whole car as its a race car and I'm not too worried about how it looks, just dont want it to rust away and it would be good if it was all one colour (or close enough).

[Testament]

anyone? surely simple question for those who knows this stuff, tis my first time on this panel and paintage stuff.

[peteretep]

the normal rules dont apply to this car because its a racecar, see what other race people use thats light

[tortron]

tried hammering a nail punch into my por-15'd floor, not a scratch- so seems fairly strong

anyone had experience with electric sprayguns?

[WSKing]

hopefully should be getting painted next weekish? a couple of ideas would be good, so far my ideas have been:

Two tone same blue and Dark Metallic grey. blue from trim up, grey on bottom.

and

Two tone blues, Same blue from Body fold line down, Darker blue on top. both metallic.

any ideas? prefer two tones.

[My name is Russell]

hmm hard decision perhaps do some photoshops?

I like the sound of; Two tone same blue and Dark Metallic grey. blue from trim up, grey on bottom.

Mabie with a fat black stripe accross the centre? Meh i dono to many options. Doing the bottom half black could be cool? or the roof down to were the windows end black? or is that just for rice racers.

[peteretep]

thought id re bring this up, I bought the paint for my car on the weekend, its spies hecker stuff, I bought 5L of thinners, 2L of hardener and 4L of paint. When i went to my panel beater yesterday he said that i should use a clear coat in my engine bay so its blingin, which is ok.

So i was looking through the spies hecker website and it says that there is a "basecoat reducer(thinner)" whereas i just bought the standard(i think) spies hecker thinner

But am i right in thinking that the normal thinner will do the job adequetly?

[cute wee gem]

Will say on the tin what thinners you need, should work though. I've used the same thinners for all sorts. I pretty much use "2 way" thinners for everything.

Test panels ftw

[ZedHed]

Anyone got any white laquer they want to sell on?

Also,I can get some good quality paint made by GM and Chrysler for $30 for 3L...they just dont have black and white,bastards.

[peteretep]

hey 2k clearcoat can be applied without a hardener? treat it just like a 1k?

[cute wee gem]

you could but won't it just run everywhere and not dry?

[peteretep]

im not entirely sure with all the terms of painting etc

but you have all 2k paint/clearcoat... but you only use hardener on the topcoat? not the basecoat, so 2k paint when used as a basecoat doesnt require a hardener?

anyone care to explain the painting/clearcoating process?

[cute wee gem]

all 2k paints you have to use the harder. sometimes you paint base coats in "1k" and then use 2k clear over the top. but if the base coat IS 2k aswell then you must use hardener with it.

example. I did my mini roof in white, the basecoat was a 2k product, then sprayed 2k clear over the top (both using hardener)

then I did the body in a "1k" basecoat (no hardener required) and used the same 2k clearcoat that I used on the roof (with hardener in the clear)

2k = 2 pack which means paint and hardener together, you must use hardener if it is 2 pack.