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dylan

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Ok.

I want to prep my KP myself. Not going to bare metal, it's not worth the effort.

Whats the best way to go about it? I have access to compressor and DA sander etc.

There's also a few minor shopping trolley dents. Whats the preferred method of smoothing those out?

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dylan: you can use a brush for primer filler, its just easier if you only need to do a little bit so you dont have to set up the gun or clean it afterwards, I'ver done it.. just not for a final coat, although a proper panelbeater rolled primer on the bonnet of my sisters supra as a final coat before paint (sanded it quite abit though)

Alfaholic, need more info as to "whats the best way to do it". As for the shopping trolley dents, use a hammer and dolly then sand it and fill the ripples with normal filler, just tap the dent on the inside of guard etc with dolly of the right angle (this is pretty easy to figuer out, common sence), generally flatish dolley for straight panels, if you have dents on door, try get into them from the other side with a dolley (roll windows up, can kinda get in there) and use a "hammer off dolley" approach, where you tap AROUND the dolley, which is in the centre of the dent which should give the dolley a rebound action to push it out, again, sand then fill

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Also Alfaholic, I'd just sand the car back with 220ish sand paper then prime, do the dents then prime again, block sand the whole car and do a guide coat if you wish (colour mixed with primer, when block sanded the low spots stay the colour, high goes back to primer) Can also do the dents before you prime if the original coat is shiney it can act as a guide coat also.

Final sand with 400-500 grit sandpaper before paint

I need to work on fullstops eh? :lol:

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so ive heard of people painting on primer with a paint brush obviously not as a final coat of primer but as a filler anyone tried this?

common method by panelbeaters,as it saves masking+there retarded :lol: .as paintshops have to sand it back anyway,with a brush you can apply much thicker

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Ok.

I want to prep my KP myself. Not going to bare metal, it's not worth the effort.

damn right. but yep do as lorolla has said,knock the shine of it,fix the dents,strip what you can.then send it to the painters.if its not ruff,it wont need to be primed

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so ive heard of people painting on primer with a paint brush obviously not as a final coat of primer but as a filler anyone tried this?

common method by panelbeaters,as it saves masking+there retarded :lol: .as paintshops have to sand it back anyway,with a brush you can apply much thicker

Yup, I rekon using a little roller would be alot better

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so ive heard of people painting on primer with a paint brush obviously not as a final coat of primer but as a filler anyone tried this?

common method by panelbeaters,as it saves masking+there retarded :lol: .as paintshops have to sand it back anyway,with a brush you can apply much thicker

Yup, I rekon using a little roller would be alot better

still has to get sanded anyway,so no point

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Would it be better to paint a car outside or in the garage?

Does heat make the paint have less orange peel or is this all in gun technique/setup?, when I painted my colt it was in a heated booth and it came out with alot less orange peel than my corolla, but I had learnt abit in between and was using an expensive gun setup by a very good painter/pro

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Also, wanting to know abit about pearls, this stuff on trademe seems like a good idea (was gonna do it in clear over green), Is it worth doing as a noob painter?, the painter who let me use his booth when I did the colt didn't say anything about painting pearls being hard, but I didn't do a very noticable cover of pearl on that car, and I want this to be quite noticable.

Is it easier to mix with the paint or in clear?, for consistancey in the pearl that is.. cheers

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motor ... 030146.htm

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when i paint my car is it worth hosing down the floor to stop bits of crap from flying up or dosnt that do much also from what i understand excessive overspray is caused by the compresser pressure being to high and doing your strokes too fast

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Yeah hose it down, stops dust etc from flying back up when painting sills etc

You say you watch alot of the programs on disco channel, watch the guys on american hotrod, overhaulin etc paint, do a 50%ish over lap on strokes, go fastish.. but not too fast.. do a few test peices before you do the car and try different speed on stroke etc

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Would it be better to paint a car outside or in the garage?

Does heat make the paint have less orange peel or is this all in gun technique/setup?, when I painted my colt it was in a heated booth and it came out with alot less orange peel than my corolla, but I had learnt abit in between and was using an expensive gun setup by a very good painter/pro

hmm outside or inside,heat is good for drying.but you run the risk of leaves and shit gettin stuck in the paint.

as for orange peel,its a newb/beginner thing.youl soon notice you dont do it anymore

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Also, wanting to know abit about pearls, this stuff on trademe seems like a good idea (was gonna do it in clear over green), Is it worth doing as a noob painter?, the painter who let me use his booth when I did the colt didn't say anything about painting pearls being hard, but I didn't do a very noticable cover of pearl on that car, and I want this to be quite noticable.

Is it easier to mix with the paint or in clear?, for consistancey in the pearl that is.. cheers

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motor ... 030146.htm

never seen/heard about this brand bottle etc.

no doubt its imported crap.stick with ppg or better for pearls.it depends alot on the application.mix the pearl up seperate and apply before clear

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