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PAINT THREAD


dylan

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18 minutes ago, mopig said:

just on the crimped fitting hoses. Honestly i've had such a shit run from these over the years. They often leak after a while. I much prefer to buy the hosetails, and oetiker clips and just make my own as the premade length are always too long or short or wahtever.  buy a roll and make your own, ( you dont need the fancy pliers for those clips either ( can just use blunt sidecutters or vice if you must ) but they make a nicer job.

( maybe just always bought the cheap shit? ) dunno but i avoid them now. air leaks are one of my pet hates in a workshop.

 

I had to cut the crimped ends off a new hose from BNT and use normal tails due to the leaks.

Where do you get those clips?

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  • 2 months later...

I'd use paint stripper. The stuff from super cheap that has dichloromethane in the ingredients is safe for aluminium. Stinks terribly, I think it has ammonia in it. Works great for removing carbon from pistons and valves and stuff without scratching too. Don't get it on your skin, even a tiny little bit will start to burn in a few seconds.

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Repco brand paint stripper seems alloy safe.

 

It's so shit it takes 2 or 3 applications to get paint to bubble and doesn't seem to touch alloy.

It does make skin wrinkle up weird, but not bad enough I'd bother with gloves though 

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  • 2 months later...

So work gave me some Repco gift vouchers.... #PROBABLYNOTGETTINGAPAYRISETHISYEAR

Does anyone have any experience with the spray guns they sell? Are they okay, or should I not bother?

I need something to spray epotec408 (>1.8mm nozzle I think). And an as yet undecided top coat, possibly 2k.

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How much paint per panel on a small car? I'm just working out if I have enough to do a good job with blending adjacent panels. 

I'm mixing 1:1 metallic basecoat and it's the same colour over the same so shouldn't have issues with coverage etc. I have 1 litre of paint mixed up without thinners. And 5l of thinners (allow some for priming bumpers and roof +spot repairs) 

And I have 4 litres of clear.. Msds tells me 10% thinners so that's 400ml. 

Will it work? 

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  • 1 month later...

Maybe try that road first then.

They will know what is and isn't in their system. When I got paint made they could use the paint code or match off my car. No point getting it made off the code unless doing a full respray, due to years of fading. No idea what you need it for so that's all I can add really.

 

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If matching existing the code will be pointless really, you should have started with that info lol. As for getting paint made, not terrible expensive no. Pay a bit more for them to fart around mixing the paint to match what you have though. They have to mix it, test it and dry it, change the mix a bit, rinse and repeat. So take them the fuel filler door and see what they say. I don't recall exact pricing, but it wasn't bad. I was just doing small areas so cheapest option for me was to get a tin of paint made, might have been 1L. Then have the put it in some spray cans. Rather than buying the paint in colour matched spray cans. Same result but they said cheaper (at my local anyway) to do it that way. Not a painter, but you'll never get it bang on, so will need to blend it into the other panels if wanting a good job. I didn't care about my car so just painted it without that worry. I still have paint left over for future repairs too. So best value is probably getting more paint made than you need. Then you have the option to get more put into spray cans if going that way. If using a proper sprayer obviously don't have to worry about that step. Oh and my paint was just basic bitch stuff, single stage so not sure on 2k base + clear pricing, but wouldn't surprise me if still reasonable.

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Every paint shop in nz will have Toyota codes, for a small amount it will be around $100

 

I think it was about 80 for 500ml of matched lacquer in cream

And about $240 for 2L of matched basecoat in fancy metallic with all the pearl in it. 

 

Most places have Toyota white for cheap, might not be that white

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Is sanding the right approach for this?

The top layer of paint is rubbish, its really crazed and cracked and has poor adhesion (duct tape peels the paint off). 

Should I carry on sanding like I am, or am I better off chemical stripping it or doing something else?
 

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