Mof Posted January 8, 2021 Share Posted January 8, 2021 Ok if one wanted to paint the steel framing in here that's going to be exposed and a feature if you will, what sort of paint would one use? Something of the satin variety Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tortron Posted January 8, 2021 Share Posted January 8, 2021 Boiled linseed oil 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rusty360 Posted January 8, 2021 Share Posted January 8, 2021 1 hour ago, Mof said: Ok if one wanted to paint the steel framing in here that's going to be exposed and a feature if you will, what sort of paint would one use? Something of the satin variety I'm picking its in shop primer now? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mof Posted January 8, 2021 Share Posted January 8, 2021 1 hour ago, rusty360 said: I'm picking its in shop primer now? Yeah it is. Apart from the pole that I welded up the holes and chucked some shit primer on it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GuyWithAviators Posted January 17, 2021 Share Posted January 17, 2021 (edited) Hey team. Long time reader first time poster. just doing some shit tidy up on the floor of my Austin. Had some surface rust / yucky from a few years of no carpet + water leak + a rubber mat rubbing the grit around. I hit the loose stuff with a quick strip disc, some CRC rust converter on the metal and then single pack sca epoxy enamel on top. the enamel isn’t drying where it’s on top of the rust converter, where it was just over exisiting paint is fine. did I not let the rust convert dry enough? I’ve chucked a fan and now dehumidifier in there to try help but it’s still tacky a few days on. ideas? Edited January 17, 2021 by GuyWithAviators Not sorry for sideways pics 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spencer Posted January 17, 2021 Share Posted January 17, 2021 No offense but those are not good products to use (almost everything paint related from a parts store is junk). Any of those rust converters are terrible and have bad adhesion, everything I have tried to paint on them peels off easy as. Grind that shit off, go to bunnings get some phosphoric acid for treating the rust (brunox? I think next to the thinners, or vinegar for a slower version), then go to the paint shop and buy epoxy primer (protec is cheapest IMO, like $60 for 1L kit). You can brush on the primer, then top coat with whatever in white and it will be done forever. 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GuyWithAviators Posted January 17, 2021 Share Posted January 17, 2021 Fair, just crap from the shelves at work. Definitely aware there is better stuff out there, convenience and staff price was a winner here lol. Didn’t think they’d be this bad. I’ll go have a nosey at the paint shop, cheers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tortron Posted January 17, 2021 Share Posted January 17, 2021 The rust converter is probably just expensive phosphoric acid no? the issue will be the paint itself, will take a long time to dry, and even then im sure it never actually dries (rustolem for example has oil in it to stop rust but then never hardens) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spencer Posted January 17, 2021 Share Posted January 17, 2021 Yes it is some kinda acid action but the problem is they have a primer in them, it dries like some kind of jelly and does not sand well. You are just meant to paint over it and its magic jelly powers make the top coat stick. But on tests and fucking around with a bunch of those primers (including garbage weld through) they all sand horrible and the top paint flakes off eventually. It says in the CRC datasheet wait 12h and top coat with enamel. It goes straight in the bin IMO. But yes it is a incompatibility of paint and undercoat and/or not enough cure time. There is other ways but the stock answer is go get the good shit. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GuyWithAviators Posted January 17, 2021 Share Posted January 17, 2021 I have a bit more to do that’s not gonna be under carpets so I’ll give this thread another good read and go hassle the paint shop guys, I think there’s an Autolink and Resene here. Appreciate the help! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tortron Posted January 17, 2021 Share Posted January 17, 2021 https://totalbodyshop.co.nz/products/0af7b240-abd9-11ea-fb5b-359a1351eab3 bonderite/DEOXIDINE all day Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Benno Posted January 17, 2021 Share Posted January 17, 2021 If you want a quick and easy, but effective rust kill/coating Brunox is king. Can get a brush-on or spray on coating type. Grind off the CRC shit, Brunox over the rust, hit with 2K epoxy primer and live happily ever afterwards. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spencer Posted January 17, 2021 Share Posted January 17, 2021 Brunox has worse adhesion than 2k epoxy primer by miles. Why would you put a inferior product under the 2k epoxy when you can remove the rust with abrasion and acid? 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spencer Posted January 17, 2021 Share Posted January 17, 2021 Anyone actually tested these single part rust primers? like put them outside and then sand them back? or sand them back at all? the 2k epoxy primer beats them all. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustHarry Posted January 17, 2021 Share Posted January 17, 2021 I agree with @Spencer painting over rust converters is a big nono. Its all crap and paint doesnt stick to it at all well For interoir stuff like that hammerite is a good option. Its ment to go over a bit of rust and seems to "kill"/treat it?. so just wire wheel/purple wheel it back as much as posible. And then sand it with something like 80grit to give a good adhesion surface on the steel. Hammerite dries pretty hard. So just key it up and put whatever top coat you want over it. 2k epoxys only really work well when the steel under them us spotlessly clean otherwise rust just continues to fester underneat the epoxy 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingbrick Posted January 17, 2021 Share Posted January 17, 2021 Also jumping on the bandwagon here- rust converters are shit. I've had panel beaters tell me this, and I have seen it myself. Its not uncommon for light rust to form UNDER the shitty rust converter finish.. its just plain terrible stuff. Probably fine to paint it over 99% mechanically de-rusted surfaces to treat any shallow pitting, then sand it all off again before epoxy, but otherwise no. The problem is trying to explain to people that its simply not a magical wonder fix and the labels on the bottle are a lie. Edit. Everyone can do the test themselves. Take a piece of steel with fairly light surface rust. Paint it with rust converter. Let cure. Scratch off the converter with a knife or flat head screw driver. Under the purply black coating is plain old normal ginger rust every time. it does not penetrate like people will have you believe. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kicker Posted January 18, 2021 Share Posted January 18, 2021 I bought a small bottle of Neutra Rust a while back to test. This part was rusty and had been wire brushed before application. That's what it looked like after the Neutra Rust had dried. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spencer Posted January 18, 2021 Share Posted January 18, 2021 Its all garbage! Rust primers suck at rust converting and suck at being a primer. Worst of both worlds. Same for weld through primer, chuck it in the bin. 2 part epoxy holds heat better and burns off less if you let it cure 24/48h. Just rename the thread to buy some 2 part epoxy primer and apply to clean abraded/acid washed metal thx. 4 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kicker Posted January 18, 2021 Share Posted January 18, 2021 I was watching the shit above do it's thing, looked ok at first but the carrier liquid seemed to be promoting more rust than the active ingredient could deal with. 2 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingbrick Posted January 18, 2021 Share Posted January 18, 2021 44 minutes ago, Spencer said: Its all garbage! Rust primers suck at rust converting and suck at being a primer. Worst of both worlds. Same for weld through primer, chuck it in the bin. 2 part epoxy holds heat better and burns off less if you let it cure 24/48h. Just rename the thread to buy some 2 part epoxy primer and apply to clean abraded/acid washed metal thx. Does 2k fuck up your weld though? Coz I use crc zinc spray and it's like welding clean steel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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