Jump to content

PAINT THREAD


dylan

Recommended Posts

  • 2 weeks later...
  • Replies 1.9k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

2 hours ago, Ashkellybarr said:

Looking at doing under body atm

would anyone have recommendations or hooks ups on this product before I dump money into it?

BB2CAD93-8997-47F4-A947-F66BB0A19547.jpeg

Clean and prep it, then brush on some 2k tbh. Spray with chassis wax if super keen

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Fwiw i sprayed some durapox on some very rusty steel (5mm deep pitting in spots) 

I hit the scale with a flap disk and the rest with a strip disk. Blew the dust off, then 2 coats

 

Its sat outside for 6 months now and looks great

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yeah 2 part epoxy does all the things POR-15 says and it actually sticks to things. Its just made by proper paint companies who sell their shit to actual professionals so they cannot make such outrageous claims, they just stick to the script and say clean your steel before paint etc. Only downside is its not as durable and easy to clean as a 2 part urethane top coat but it wins 10x for adhesion. Hence why epoxy primer and urethane top coat is the modern paint technology of choice and pretty much as cheap as anything else if you shop around, especially for plain old industrial spec black for under body etc. Just wear a mask and do it outside.

Does a better job than weld through primer in a can also if you let it set properly.

I sound like a 2 part paint salesman again.

  • Like 4
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Have had good results with Rust-Oleum 2x.

Did a motorcycle frame that sat outside for 2 years after, looked as good as the day I sprayed it. 

About 12 bucks a spray can at Bunnings.

Works better than por15 for me, have used both.

Nice spray pattern for a rattle can too.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yeah as far as cans go that stuff isn't bad. I painted some outdoor furniture with it and its holding up.

It all depends on how much effort and how long you want the paint to last with cars. Its a cunt of job usually to clean things up for paint so why put garbage on there. Unless its to flick it then its a different story.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

what about brunox? sheepers seems to use that a bit? panel shop who did some work on my old delta used it for small stuff as well

seems like it is ok for small areas were you cant fully clean things 100% because shit access and don't want to cut out the whole thing because massive job and its not a visible area?

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

36 minutes ago, Testament said:

what about brunox? 

 

It seems to be very popular with the Europeans doing rebuilds. Lots of it being used on the BMW e21 specific forum. 

I have a bottle here that I plan on using, 

I'm need to know what.m/ BBCprep pre paint it needs. The bottle is eastern block spec with no.english on it any where.

@sheepers 

Can you just paint directly.over the top. I used it on a small rust repair on the wife's old daily. Need totouch it up so we can sell it. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

19 hours ago, Spencer said:

Yeah 2 part epoxy does all the things POR-15 says and it actually sticks to things. Its just made by proper paint companies who sell their shit to actual professionals so they cannot make such outrageous claims, they just stick to the script and say clean your steel before paint etc. Only downside is its not as durable and easy to clean as a 2 part urethane top coat but it wins 10x for adhesion. Hence why epoxy primer and urethane top coat is the modern paint technology of choice and pretty much as cheap as anything else if you shop around, especially for plain old industrial spec black for under body etc. Just wear a mask and do it outside.

Does a better job than weld through primer in a can also if you let it set properly.

I sound like a 2 part paint salesman again.

What two part product would you recommend?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Ashkellybarr said:

What two part product would you recommend?

Thats a open ended question I guess. Depends on what you want to spend and how much you think there is differences between the major brands? Some people want to stick to a paint system so will buy all PPG or similar known brand products, at least you know they are all recommended to function together. I used PPG on one of my first cars ( I have only painted ~5 cars, hardly a expert) because I knew nothing and it was a known brand of paint (cost me a fortune in Taupo also), it was good shit. Now in Australia I bought a couple brands but stuck to Protec because it was cheap, honestly I cannot tell the difference in quality. You would have to paint two cars and leave them in the sun for 15-20 years to see which is better.

Basically any major brand of 2 part epoxy primer designed for automotive use should be most peoples go-to for everything on bare metal. There a a million variants, some industrial "rust protection" ones with zinc, marine ones are more weather resistant but probably shit to sand. The Protec epotec? was a happy medium, you could do a quick block on it no problem, it had great adhesion and price, 4L for $100. Its probably more now, last lot I got was 3 years ago, no project life.

 

 

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

6 hours ago, Spencer said:

Thats a open ended question I guess. Depends on what you want to spend and how much you think there is differences between the major brands? Some people want to stick to a paint system so will buy all PPG or similar known brand products, at least you know they are all recommended to function together. I used PPG on one of my first cars ( I have only painted ~5 cars, hardly a expert) because I knew nothing and it was a known brand of paint (cost me a fortune in Taupo also), it was good shit. Now in Australia I bought a couple brands but stuck to Protec because it was cheap, honestly I cannot tell the difference in quality. You would have to paint two cars and leave them in the sun for 15-20 years to see which is better.

Basically any major brand of 2 part epoxy primer designed for automotive use should be most peoples go-to for everything on bare metal. There a a million variants, some industrial "rust protection" ones with zinc, marine ones are more weather resistant but probably shit to sand. The Protec epotec? was a happy medium, you could do a quick block on it no problem, it had great adhesion and price, 4L for $100. Its probably more now, last lot I got was 3 years ago, no project life.

 

 

Protec is now a PPG owned company which sucks as i've been a Protec die hard since 94-95 and i hate giving PPG $ but i'll continue useing Protec.

Protec's Epotec is a very good epoxy.

At work we use Cromax 840R for our automotive stuff and Resene 440 for our industrial stuff, both great products.

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 5 weeks later...

I'm still very much a noob when it comes to painting, but it looks like it's going to be an important part of my business for a while yet - as well as my own hobbies.

I've currently got a far from ideal setup in the garage, which gives me no control over dust and debris, temperature, and overspray. Plus it looks like shit having half finished products lying around everywhere while they dry.

I'm daydreaming about getting another shipping container, and setting it up specifically as an external paint booth with power and extraction abilities. This will give me storage for all my paint related stuff, as well as control over temperature and air filtering, and a decent amount of room to move around in.

Does this sound like a good idea, or is there a better way of doing it?

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Archetype said:

I'm still very much a noob when it comes to painting, but it looks like it's going to be an important part of my business for a while yet - as well as my own hobbies.

I've currently got a far from ideal setup in the garage, which gives me no control over dust and debris, temperature, and overspray. Plus it looks like shit having half finished products lying around everywhere while they dry.

I'm daydreaming about getting another shipping container, and setting it up specifically as an external paint booth with power and extraction abilities. This will give me storage for all my paint related stuff, as well as control over temperature and air filtering, and a decent amount of room to move around in.

Does this sound like a good idea, or is there a better way of doing it?

Interesting idea, but a container might be a bit narrow depending on what you want to paint?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...