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PAINT THREAD


dylan

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Nick is right.. you can only see and clean a portion of the rust from outside. 

How you should best fix it is entirely related to how much you like the car and its value, really.

If its a pos and you dont care then do whatever you want (wire wheel, epoxy primers and fillers etc then change your name to newtechwin) but if the cars worth it to you then definately new steel

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Is that on the roof? If it is you can forget about anything quick. best fix  a roof skin without those strips in them absolute water and dirt trap. My sister had a civic back in the 90's that my dad bogged up and painted 6 monthly for its warrants. Was a blistering leaky mess again pretty quickly after each fix real design disaster.

if it's not to bad now get the rust welded up and have a chat about stopping it coming back with your panel beater could fill the channels and get rid of the trim all together.

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  • 1 month later...

Had a crack at painting today for the first time and made a mess of it while trying to lay down some 2K primer filler. I prepared the panel with some 320 using a DA, used to wax and grease remover to clean it up and went over it with a tack rag. It's most pronounced where I initially began painting but lessened as I got into it, didn't disappear though. Not sure if this is caused by poor prep or just me being timid with the trigger and not allowing enough paint through. Anyone seen this kind of thing before?

 

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Most likely there is a silicon based spray or other type of lubricant still on the surface.

Even though you've used wax and grease remover, there may still be some residual on the surface, or it's sunk in.

Assuming you mixed the primer filler as prescribed and thinned correctly.

New mixing containers, or re using old ones?

I personally wouldn't use the tack rag, just prepsol wash and high pressure air to dry off, then do it again.

 

 

 

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Yep, contamination, either on the panel or in primer.

Was it a brand new gun? Most cheaper guns come with 'machine oil' still on the internal parts and need thinners run through them a couple of times.

There are so many things that could cause this, look around the area you're painting to see if there are any 'silicone' based products, also I've had experience with that type of contamination caused by trees outside (mainly in oz tho')

Just rub back with the 320 and do again. 

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Is this etalon stuff the right stuff/any good? I want to use it to brush paint the back of panels/cavities/box sections for rust protection.

http://totalbodyshop.co.nz/item.php?id=8212

I was also looking at the ppg epoxy primer and epoxy urethane primer, but when you add hardener, it gets expensive. Especially since it is way more hardener than I need for the job and they suggest the fast/25 min/D803 hardener for brush work, which I guess it's not really suitable for spraying.

 

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1 hour ago, S124AB said:

You could use POR-15 instead.

Talk to the guys at the paint shop to confirm what you're trying to achieve.

You can paint over POR once it has set, or spray cavity wax over the top.

It's the rust preventive coating you want.

http://totalbodyshop.co.nz/catalogue.php?cat=POR-15

I've used POR15 a lot in the past. Discussion on this thread argue that epoxy primer has just as good/better adhesion than POR15 but is not as picky about the surface prep.

Total bodyshop told me when I was there that they cannot get any more POR stock(there was SFA on the shelf when I looked).

Also, AFAIK, Permanent Painted Coatings was the authorised sole NZ importer. But the POR15 manufacturer has sold the Aus/NZ distribution rights to Bunnings without even bothering to tell PPC it was happening until after the fact. I got this info from Road and Track when I ordered some stuff(they called PPC while I was there).

This all happened before xmas... I've not seen any POR at Bunnings yet.

 

So... 2k epoxy primer

 

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Newbie here.

Tried laying some 1K primer over the weekend.

At the start of each run I got very little material coming out which gave a sandpaper finish. But the further in it would thicken up so it was coming out of the gun nice and glossy.

Happened every time I filled the gun, didn't change the air pressure or gun settings throughout a run.

What am I doing wrong? Insufficiently mixed? Crappy gun?

Pics for thread.

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On 3/31/2018 at 08:43, Bellicose said:

Yep, contamination, either on the panel or in primer.

Was it a brand new gun? Most cheaper guns come with 'machine oil' still on the internal parts and need thinners run through them a couple of times.

I think this was the issue. Brand new gun, first time I had used it. I did do a test before painting the panel to adjust the gun but it wasn't really apparent, I was saturating a piece of paper though. Came out nice the second time around.

I have another question. Is $125 per litre (gst inc) a reasonable retail price for a Metalux 1K base coat in a solid red?

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12 minutes ago, Bellicose said:

Yep sounds 'bout right.

Why are you using 1k?

I'm doing a respray in a backyard in the suburbs, piece by piece. I have some 2K on hand but the more I read the less I'm inclined to take a gamble..

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Isn't as durable either from what I gather. I've heard it's a matter of laying on 4 - 6 coats of clear and then buffing it into something respectable. I'm picking up 100ml of 1K base coat tomorrow just to give it a test. Might squirt a bit over the fence for good luck.

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  • 3 weeks later...

I'm working towards painting the engine bay and under the arches of my racecar at the moment. I want it to be hard wearing and able to deal with oil, fuel etc. What's the go? 

I'm picking the bringing everything back to bare metal would be best, then 2 part epoxy primer and wet layered 2 part for the top coat? 

The rattle can job I did 5 years ago survived ok, but peeled off really easily when I was degreasing the engine bay. 

Also, is it possible to get good 2 part satin paint? My front bumper and wheel arches are always chipping from rubber marbles and other debris... Would be nice to get decent paint on there and not have to worry as much. 

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