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PAINT THREAD


dylan

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Anyone got any tips and recommendations for a first time painter? Have a compressor, 120LPM so nothing impressive but hopefully enough to do a somewhat OK job. Could use rattlecans again, but have compressor now. Need a low cost, OK gun, are the cheaper ones from supercheap OK? Thinking one like this, http://www.supercheapauto.co.nz/Product/Blackridge-Air-Spray-Gun-Gravity-Feed-600mL/340067?menuFrom=1021509

Whats the go with buying paint and shit for it too? Its for the boot lid on MX5 which is a non-metallic black. I presume i need to buy thinners and stuff too? Can i use the same gun for everything, primer, paint, clear etc? Being non-metallic, do i even need to clear coat it?

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Depends on what paint you buy 2k has a harder and you don't use a clear coat it is your cheapest option , base coat clear coat is more expensive and requires more expertise in getting a good finish you will need the correct thinners , total body shop in lower hutt will sell you all the stuff mixed to match your car

I have a super cheap gun I use for primer its ok 

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  • 1 month later...
2 minutes ago, dabuzz said:

RUST WORM - 

I need to strip my roof back to bare metal, there is some rust worm in it, what are the best products to use to eliminate this, any other prep tips would be appreciated too - thanks

If you have access to a DA, I'd go 80grit on that. It's not too coarse and still does a good job. Go over the entire area or otherwise feather off the edges.

Once done, etch prime that with a thin coat before priming it with a hi-fill or whatever you're  using.

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Acid is what you use to treat rust, there is a scale of acid types and strengths obviously. You can use vinegar or even better go buy some phosphoric acid from bunnings. Apply and wait, then wash off with water, then DA it to bright white clean steel and clean before paint.

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I just use the acid. Once you use acid a bunch you will see that it only takes the top skin off the rust unless you can keep the part wet or soaked for a very long time. For surface applications this is usually impractical so instead you do multiple actions, apply acid and wash off (apply with some scotch brite to bite into the rust and move it around). If you use any of those "converter" products you are basically treating the surface and sealing it up at the same time, usually those single stage primers have shit adhesion (ie you can scratch it off because its stuck to some shitty dusty rust stuff) so fuck putting expensive paint system on top of ANY single stage product, I have seen that stuff make the paint on top flake/chip off easily eventually. Basically don't put anything but 2k epoxy primer on steel (bog can be the exception here) and make sure that steel is roughed up clean and white, I will DA (or hand sand) then polish it down with rough scotch brite by hand then clean it 5+ times with solvent until the rag is clean as fuck, then paint.

Oh the acid at bunnings is called Ranex.

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As Spencer said you can acid it, i've never had issues DAing it till it's nice and shiny, etch priming it and then going from there. A couple of cars I've done in 04-05 like that without any acid treatment are still sweet to this day without anything coming back.

Ofcourse, if you acid treat it, it'll only reduce the risk of it coming back so makes sense to do it if you can.

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I am guessing "worm" means he has pitting which you sometimes cant DA down without thinning the metal? Its standard practice to spot treat pitting with acid IMO, the acid and rust is neutralized and gone once you wash with water and then hand sand it clean. Should just be steel left. Probably should have done the roof first though, top down.

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4 minutes ago, Spencer said:

I am guessing "worm" means he has pitting which you sometimes cant DA down without thinning the metal? Its standard practice to spot treat pitting with acid IMO, the acid and rust is neutralized and gone once you wash with water and then hand sand it clean. Should just be steel left. Probably should have done the roof first though, top down.

Haha your shop must have been much more thorough than mine dude. I dont think anyone worried about thinning the metal when I used to do this, then again most of the time the pitting I came across would get taken out with a DA real quick, anything that wouldnt sand out relatively easily would then get the 36 grit soft disk grind-up, etc.

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Its just personal and a time thing man I only learned tips off a slow old resto guy and never worked in a production line, i know what you are saying though. For me too much DA = lots of heat which is no fun if you make things go bendy especially on a roof.

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1 hour ago, Spencer said:

Its just personal and a time thing man I only learned tips off a slow old resto guy and never worked in a production line, i know what you are saying though. For me too much DA = lots of heat which is no fun if you make things go bendy especially on a roof.

I hear you man. Although, that's why working with old crap is so much nicer than new cars, whatever they use now 0.8mm or whatever steel, vs the old stuff where you can (not that you would want to) get away without using a dolly, or there is never any heat warp from any kinds of orbital work, etc.

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1 hour ago, Spencer said:

I am guessing "worm" means he has pitting which you sometimes cant DA down without thinning the metal? Its standard practice to spot treat pitting with acid IMO, the acid and rust is neutralized and gone once you wash with water and then hand sand it clean. Should just be steel left. Probably should have done the roof first though, top down.

'worm' is a bit different to surface rust, there is little trails of rust like someone with Parkinsons has tried to draw lines on the roof with a vivid, this type of rust creeps along unless neutralised, harder to stop as it kind of gets under the very top layer of steel. but yes there is pitting.

ln my case I didn't start top down as I had do a full body blast except roof and 1/4s to work out of the project was viable, I had to replace the rear 1/4 boot floor etc, I wasn't comfortable blasting roof as Japanese steel is so thin, and even a DA ill have to be careful not to create heat, or press too hard and make it all floppy.

Will purchase and treat with the acid, should do the trick.

Oct7.jpg

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The Tergo brand from Mitre 10 is good.. just paint it on and work it until the rust is gone. I use a stiff paint brush. Don't let it dry as it forms a white powder that can't be removed without sanding. I use it at about 20-25% with water like that. If you're soaking a part in a bucket say, you can dilute much more. I would do your roof in sections at a time.

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  • 2 months later...

Heading into my first rust repair, thought I'd seek some advice for a first-timer before I jump straight in, don't want to screw it up too much.

Finally built up the self esteem to check out the rust under the weather stripping on my Accord, had some scraping with a screwdriver and looks as if the rust has blown through the first layer of steel in 2 corners, other two corners are surface rust.
Currently thinking my best course of action would be to strip back as much rust as I can with a wire wheel on a Dremel, fill the small hole with bog, treat with Por15, primer and throw some rattle paint on top.
Want to make sure I'm going about this right, don't want to hide a safety issue or see the rust come back after winter, any advice on products/better methods?
QF1iRBr.jpg

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