Muncie Posted August 7, 2016 Share Posted August 7, 2016 Resene vinyl etch and water based enamel works a treat with a fine dacron roller. How do i know? Ive done my trailer in it the poor thing gets abuse and the paint is holding on like shit to a blanket. You will need to experiment with the etch it dries ultra fast as its solvent based. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tortron Posted August 7, 2016 Share Posted August 7, 2016 Red oxide and house paint will form rust underneath it for sure. ol mate painted the comer green back in 76 and theres no rust yet / theres so many layers the steel is long gone and its just paint 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThePog Posted August 7, 2016 Share Posted August 7, 2016 The data sheet for the resene one says brush for small areas only, I have some solid meterage to cover. I might need to man up and spray it, I do have a big old compressor in the workshop. I am just a retard with painting... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ghostchips Posted August 7, 2016 Share Posted August 7, 2016 Red oxide is ok but housepaint isn't very good over any metal that isn't galvanized roofing 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gaz Posted August 8, 2016 Share Posted August 8, 2016 Use epoxy primer. It is the right stuff for the job. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ragify Posted August 18, 2016 Share Posted August 18, 2016 Looking to paint my car in a few weeks. Got a few Q's I am going to do prep myself, strip down, sand back, fix rust, prime. Is removing all the glass worth it, or is leaving it in and masking off just as effective? There is a few spots of rust that need to be cut out, is it worth buying a welder and doing it myself or easier and more cost effective to pay someone to weld in new patches after I've cut it out and made up the new patch? Bare metal or just down a few coats of paint? Contemplating painting myself, but totally clueless and a little short on time. Would it pay off getting it done professionally? What price would I be looking at? Finally any shops to recommend if I do go the professional route? I'm in rodney (warkworth) but don't mind taking it up to Whangarei or down to Auckland. Cheers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kiwibirdman Posted August 22, 2016 Share Posted August 22, 2016 Looking to paint my car in a few weeks. Got a few Q's I am going to do prep myself, strip down, sand back, fix rust, prime. Is removing all the glass worth it, or is leaving it in and masking off just as effective? There is a few spots of rust that need to be cut out, is it worth buying a welder and doing it myself or easier and more cost effective to pay someone to weld in new patches after I've cut it out and made up the new patch? Bare metal or just down a few coats of paint? Contemplating painting myself, but totally clueless and a little short on time. Would it pay off getting it done professionally? What price would I be looking at? Finally any shops to recommend if I do go the professional route? I'm in rodney (warkworth) but don't mind taking it up to Whangarei or down to Auckland. Cheers. The best advise I ever got was when getting a car painted strip it of everything you can. 2 reasons, first is nothing looks more shit house than paint that goes over the edge of trim, door handles, rubbers..... where it has been masked, the second is you save a fortune in not paying someone to mask around all the bits. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NickTheFox Posted November 7, 2016 Share Posted November 7, 2016 Just after abit of advice here. I am currently repainting my AE85, iIve started by stripping all the paint off and addressing the rust issues. I have 4 Litres of Durepox 2k primer that im going to be using. From the research that ive done it seems that people recommend using the 2k primer over weld through primer, is this the case? There a few places like the internal windscreen channel that I have now exposed to fix some rust is it ok to just use the primer in there or will I also need to topcoat it to get better protection? Also regarding spray guns does it really matter the quality of the one your using if youre just laying down primer? Im trying to decide if I grab a $50 supercheap special or buy a Devilbliss kit from the states. Im hoping Spencer sees this as he seems to be like a wise old man regarding paint Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Vapour Posted November 7, 2016 Share Posted November 7, 2016 When looking at guns go have a look at the gun man on YouTube. He has a few reviews on guns. Guy knows.what he's talking about Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ghostchips Posted November 7, 2016 Share Posted November 7, 2016 For primer alone a supercheap spray gun will do fine. And i personally like topcoat over primer as it slows moisture getting through the primer quick well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tortron Posted November 7, 2016 Share Posted November 7, 2016 . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spencer Posted November 7, 2016 Share Posted November 7, 2016 I started fixing my tailgate last year (it fell off the hinges when freshly painted) started the job and forgot my friend borrowed both my primer and my top coat gun and messed them up so they needed rebuilds (no parts on hand) So bought a $50 bunnings 1.4mm gravity gun, painted primer with it just thinned the epoxy more than the data sheet says and did a extra coat or two. block sand the primer smooth anyway. Then base went on pretty good with lots of practice, its thin anyway so easier to spray. Clear is harder with a cheap gun, lots of test pieces to get the smoothest possible result, still orange peely after 4-5 coats it builds up the peel effect. Still can block it smooth and no one knows. Its nice to not have to block as much, but who cares. Not sure what the point is, guess you can use a cheap gun from primer through top coat and get good enough results. But there's lots of details along the way that you will have to pick up to get it all working smoothly and not be stressing or blaming or worrying about the gun. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spencer Posted November 7, 2016 Share Posted November 7, 2016 Oh and 2 part epoxy primer over weld through in a can all day, just test them both and the results are easy to see. Epoxy gets even better at taking the heat with welding when well cured, so you have to wait a few days after prepping parts for welding for best results. Its no problem to mix up some epoxy primer in a pot and paint with a brush (for small rust repairs or larger panels to be welded in etc), it will just waste quite a bit of paint. Many times its better than setting up the gun and getting a mask though. Like weld in a panel, dress it flat then want to fuck off, just mix some up in a pot and its sealed forever until you want to bog and block. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tortron Posted November 7, 2016 Share Posted November 7, 2016 . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NickTheFox Posted November 7, 2016 Share Posted November 7, 2016 Thanks for the replies guys. I just have one more question for the interior I'm stripping out the sound deadnening, cleaning any shit of the paint, giving it a quick scratch down then spraying it in the 2k durepox epoxy, would I need to apply a top 2k coat to this or would the primer provide enough protection? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spencer Posted November 7, 2016 Share Posted November 7, 2016 It will be fine, although best results are wet coat it with a top coat 2K urethane, I like a cheap industrial black for all this kind of work (under car, inside, engine bay etc). Can lay down 2 coats of epoxy, then 2 coats wet of top coat and that shit will last forever if you prepped it well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NickTheFox Posted November 8, 2016 Share Posted November 8, 2016 Sweet that's kinda what I was thinking you would say. Now to do some research on a good respirator that will protect me but not rape what's left of my savings hahaha Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bling Posted November 8, 2016 Share Posted November 8, 2016 Good and cheap won't exist. By good, I mean one that stops it getting into your eye balls as well as lungs. You only get one set of each, so look after them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spencer Posted November 8, 2016 Share Posted November 8, 2016 3M half mask and real good ventilation, full mask is what you should use but its hard to not fog up. Just move the air and be careful, I would spray all this outside. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bling Posted November 8, 2016 Share Posted November 8, 2016 Forgot to add, either get a local hookup, or try Amazon.com for much cheaper options (same brands). Either try find one with direct shipping to NZ, or bang it on Youshop. Would need to try one on locally though for sizing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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