rusty360 Posted July 1, 2016 Share Posted July 1, 2016 Is the wattyl product 2 PAC? Are you guna get it blasted? Or hand strip it. I'm sure there's some paint gurus on here that will chime in. Are you planning on painting it ur self? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Muncie Posted July 1, 2016 Share Posted July 1, 2016 Ive got to get back into painting i did a vehicle refinishing course 20 years ago when dulon was all the rage..... is anyone playing around with water based automotive paint yet? I like the idea of it Whats it like. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ghostchips Posted July 2, 2016 Share Posted July 2, 2016  is anyone playing around with water based automotive paint yet? I like the idea of it Whats it like. From oil based paint enthusiasts i hear it;s shitty. i haven't tried it myself but if it's like spray paint in a can i'd agree.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
63Ragtop Posted July 2, 2016 Share Posted July 2, 2016 Hang on, double up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
63Ragtop Posted July 2, 2016 Share Posted July 2, 2016 Is the wattyl product 2 PAC? Are you guna get it blasted? Or hand strip it. I'm sure there's some paint gurus on here that will chime in. Are you planning on painting it ur self? No don't think it is, so I guess it isn't epoxy. What would be a good single stage top coat? A 2pac is hard and shiny without a clear or is it a must? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gaz Posted July 2, 2016 Share Posted July 2, 2016 I've used watyl super etch before. It's ok but pretty thin already so a 4l doesn't go very far. Some paints don't like to stick to it also. I'd steer away. Go for 2k epoxy. Durapox or whatever ppgs alternative is. Topcoat.... if going metallic then you need a clear as the topcoat... use 2k, it goes harder. If base colour then you can use base as the topcoat. Again use 2k, it goes harder. Gaz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gaz Posted July 2, 2016 Share Posted July 2, 2016 You've got so many differant undercoat now, it will obviously only ever be as good as said undercoat. Test each one individually with whatever you plan to blast on top. Gaz 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JasonK Posted July 2, 2016 Share Posted July 2, 2016 Ive got to get back into painting i did a vehicle refinishing course 20 years ago when dulon was all the rage..... is anyone playing around with water based automotive paint yet? I like the idea of it Whats it like.  Waterborne paints really need to be sprayed in a booth with an accelerated drying system, and your air etc needs to be cleaner than it does for solvent based paints, you also dont tend to get as much depth of finish with it, and the fact that you need to clear it with a solvent based clear, makes it kinda a big outlay to get into it at this stage but no doubt the technology will get better in time Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tortron Posted July 3, 2016 Share Posted July 3, 2016 When my minor r was matte black it was wattyl super etch. OK to cover up old paint. Very thin, no good for sanding so should need a spray filler over the top. I would use a durapox primer instead Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rusty360 Posted July 3, 2016 Share Posted July 3, 2016 Farrk just wrote a epic reply hit the wrong key all gone!!! Will try again soon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rusty360 Posted July 3, 2016 Share Posted July 3, 2016 No don't think it is, so I guess it isn't epoxy. What would be a good single stage top coat? A 2pac is hard and shiny without a clear or is it a must? ok here it goes again  So im not a paint expert or guru but have a couple of good mates who are and have done a fair amount of prep work on quite a few resprays.  Bog on bare steel will always end in tears as moister always get behind the bog makes the bare steel go rusty and pushes the bog off, ive had it happen, ive done it and seen panel beaters do it. ive seen the bare steel under the bog go rusty before it even gets its top coat.  If it was me I would get it sandblasted by someone who knows what the farrk they are doing, then epoxyed asap so no surface rust happens, then lightly key the epoxy and do all the filling on top of this. You could strip it by hand with a stripping disc then hit it with 80 grit on a da then epoxy works all the same. ive done all the flat panels by hand then just got the tricky bits blasted.  Seal all the bog work as you go with a good 2 pac primer or sim. you can brush or roll in on if needed,  Once all you are happy with all the filling etc hit it with a good coat of spray filler (feather fill or similar) is basically a spray-able polyester filler. what this does it fills in all ya scratches etc and also stops ya getting any marks from ya bog shrinking back as it does. also sands great to get shit super straight.  Have seen plenty of jobs were the spray filler step was left out and while they look ok. there is usually always shrink back somewhere.  Then you can put a primer on top off this or not depending on the system, then colour it up baby.  If its just a straight colour ie no metallic. go 2k as its done in one coat, no clear needed, hard and shiny.  Only prob with 2 pacs is the nasty isoscyinates etc but there is some isoscyinate free epoxyes available in nz now.  I could show you two cars that were painted roughly at the same time one that was filled on top of epoxy the other on bare steel and you can see the difference. My old mans car was done about 10 years ago using the above filler on epoxy system and it has no issues with the paint at all.  Hope that helps a bit. were are you based? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spencer Posted July 3, 2016 Share Posted July 3, 2016 Edit- fail post. Carry on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rusty360 Posted July 3, 2016 Share Posted July 3, 2016 Edit- fail post. Carry on. This man knows about paint after reading his posts. Sheepers build thread on his red car had some great info to. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
63Ragtop Posted July 3, 2016 Share Posted July 3, 2016 Cheers Rusty, that's a good run done for a noob like myself to follow. The PPG shop also quoted the "mack daddy" system which included a epoxy primer, 200 bucks more than the Wattyl stuff so you must get what you pay for. Â I'm out in West Auckland, Te Atatu. I've gone back and forth so many time between a rattle can job and fake patina, but the under side needs proper paint so i might as well paint the whole thing. I 'll just be stripping the bug with a grinder and sander so will need something I can do in stages. Â thanks again guys! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KustomKreeps Posted July 24, 2016 Share Posted July 24, 2016 When in doubt - matte black it!  but no seriously i often go black to start on a car. Work a panel. rattle can it. this way you can work at your own speed and budget. still drive the car. then once you have done the panels and got the cash worry about a nice shiny paint job. this way helps keep the price down and keeps you on the road and enjoying your project.  Alex Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
danger Posted July 24, 2016 Share Posted July 24, 2016 Or you can do a panel then spray it black with a decent product for the same price or less than buying a bunch of cans 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bathcollector Posted July 25, 2016 Share Posted July 25, 2016 I use Wattyl Super etch on bare steel all the time. It is a very good product but as stated it is thin being an etch primer. I just laid on 3 or 4 coats and sanded it as a base primer for my F100 deck using Dulon over the top. Never had an issue with any paint not sticking to it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThePog Posted August 6, 2016 Share Posted August 6, 2016 Alrighty you useful bitches. I need to paint the roof of my bus once it is all welded up. I am going to roller it, mostly cos it is a big area and I hate spraying shit. What do you reckon to use for the first coat onto the steel and then the topcoat? I was kind of thinking red oxide then house paint, but that is just because I am a dickhead about paint. Enlightened my ignorance please.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spencer Posted August 7, 2016 Share Posted August 7, 2016 Use nothing but 2 part epoxy primer on bare steel, you can roll it but you will waste fuck loads. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spencer Posted August 7, 2016 Share Posted August 7, 2016 Red oxide and house paint will form rust underneath it for sure. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.