PAINT THREAD

[sentra]

ive had to use a bent stick in a drill to mix the can of epotec when ive used it - all the good stuff will be at the bottom of the tin, doing it by hand is futile

[Lord Gruntfuttock]

I use old bike spokes in the drill. Little 'hockey stick' bend at the end works great...

[Guypie]

Mate, if ya want i can pop 'round and give ya a hand and / or advice.

 

 

 

 

Not assuming ya didn't but.........ya did stir it REALLY well didn't ya?

 

yeah... I just shook up the tin for a bit. might need to make a stirring stick for the drill. Oh well, better luck next time!

[Mr Vapour]

Hi gents of the mystery art of painting 

 

This thread is a massive help .It's also good watching sheepers Toyota stage by stage. 

 

I'm looking At painting my bmw blue. Something simillar to the Brock Holdens. I would love to use the new edition of this paint but it's got a met/flake in it and i want to do as much as I can and adding the clear over the top is another element for something to go wrong.

 

I know I can paint the jams, bay, boot etc, but can I paint the pannels one by one also, then shoot the roof, c and rear 1/4 in one go.  

 

I'm thinking that different days and conditions will give different results?  This is another reason why I was thinking the solid colour would be more forgiving? 

 

Thoughts .

[PHLEX]

Hey team,

 

I was about to ask a very similar question to above except I am using 2K gloss white. Wanting to know if it would look ok to paint my mk2 cortina doors boot and bonnet off the car as they are all being painted inside and out and then shoot the body separately so that I can get the door jams and the bonnet and boot channels nice and uniform??  I'm using straight gloss white 2K and wont be clearing it.  Other option would be to paint the insides of the doors, underside of boot and bonnet, door jams etc and then do a closed door respray.  What have people tried before?

[Ghostchips]

Paint the body with panels off then do closed door respray works for me.

[Bellicose]

When doing a full re-spray i always blow the car apart and paint separate.

 

 

 

[Toddy415]

I could ring up tomorrow but just thought i would ask here first.

Im going to re paint a car door in 2k so i got white paint, hardner and thinners from the paint shop.

My question is how do i measure the mix properly the paint shop said its a 3:1 mix

Am i right thinking i use the right hand column in the pic above for the colour say i pick number 4 then use the middle column and top up to number 4 with hardner then thin down as neccesary?

[Bellicose]

I could ring up tomorrow but just thought i would ask here first.

Im going to re paint a car door in 2k so i got white paint, hardner and thinners from the paint shop.

My question is how do i measure the mix properly the paint shop said its a 3:1 mix

Am i right thinking i use the right hand column in the pic above for the colour say i pick number 4 then use the middle column and top up to number 4 with hardner then thin down as neccesary?

 

 

Yep, you're on to it.

 

The 10-20-30% are for the thinners (reducer)

[Toddy415]

Thanks man is there a way of working out what percentage of thinners it should be or is just add till the mixtures right?

[beachlander]

It's probably been talked about but cbf looking through a million pages.

I'm going to be prepping a car for paint soon, and really cbf doing it by hand.

Is there much of a difference between air powered DA sanders and electric? If so which would be better?

[Bellicose]

Thanks man is there a way of working out what percentage of thinners it should be or is just add till the mixtures right?

 

What paint are ya using (brand and type)?

 

It's probably been talked about but cbf looking through a million pages.

I'm going to be prepping a car for paint soon, and really cbf doing it by hand.

Is there much of a difference between air powered DA sanders and electric? If so which would be better?

 

 

Depends on type of electric one you're thinking of using.

[Gaz]

Think I'm about yo answer my own question but can someone confirm.

Epoxy then prime then bog? Epoxy seems too smooth to bog directly onto.

Pics 4 fred.

Epoxy!

Gaz

[Muncie]

Hey with regard to cutting compounds waxes etc what do you guys recommend? Just finished my bottle of "plum crazy" i bought 15 years ago it honestly makes rooted chalky paint look great. But! Im ready to try some new stuff and have a nice car i want to keep glossy..... while it sits garaged.

[Bellicose]

Think I'm about yo answer my own question but can someone confirm.

Epoxy then prime then bog? Epoxy seems too smooth to bog directly onto.

Pics 4 fred.

Gaz

 

 

Epoxy - key with 80 to 180 grit - bog - prime.

 

Hey with regard to cutting compounds waxes etc what do you guys recommend? Just finished my bottle of "plum crazy" i bought 15 years ago it honestly makes rooted chalky paint look great. But! Im ready to try some new stuff and have a nice car i want to keep glossy..... while it sits garaged.

 

 

I use all sorts, it depends on experience as well as products.

 

Below was done with cheap(ish) Evercoat products.

 

I've seen experienced people get good results with cheap products and absolutely crap results with top of the range big dollar products.

 

 

[63Ragtop]

okay guys, getting close to paint now, I've now finally finished 99.9% of the rust/metal work on the bug.

 

 

so the next step is proper paint, this is where I'm up to at the mo, the grey is weldable primer, brown is wattyl rustkill and the rear lid is covered in a product called Tetracure P10 that I bought at the start of the resto, but never really used.

After lots of reading the basic plan was to bare metal everything, in stages, paint on the P10 then start bog work, prime, spray on filler and topcoat. 

The guys at the PPG shop said the P10 should be fine but you can't bog over it, bog on bare metal then P10.

They also Quoted me a couple options starting with Wattyl Super Etch, Dulon one shot primer filler, PPG Autothane+Hardener and thinners.

Also Wattyl super etch, Autothane 1k primer filler, Dulon colour, PPG thinrs and Autothane 1K Diamond Clear.

Plus another much more spendy option which I won't worry about.

 

does this sound about right? which option would give a complete noob(me) the best results?

[Mr Vapour]

Any one ever watched the gunman channel on YouTube??

[rusty360]

okay guys, getting close to paint now, I've now finally finished 99.9% of the rust/metal work on the bug.

so the next step is proper paint, this is where I'm up to at the mo, the grey is weldable primer, brown is wattyl rustkill and the rear lid is covered in a product called Tetracure P10 that I bought at the start of the resto, but never really used.

After lots of reading the basic plan was to bare metal everything, in stages, paint on the P10 then start bog work, prime, spray on filler and topcoat.

The guys at the PPG shop said the P10 should be fine but you can't bog over it, bog on bare metal then P10.

They also Quoted me a couple options starting with Wattyl Super Etch, Dulon one shot primer filler, PPG Autothane+Hardener and thinners.

Also Wattyl super etch, Autothane 1k primer filler, Dulon colour, PPG thinrs and Autothane 1K Diamond Clear.

Plus another much more spendy option which I won't worry about.

does this sound about right? which option would give a complete noob(me) the best results?

Please don't bog on bare steel!!!!!! This is how it was done back in the day but the world has moved on!!!!!

Bog on bare steel will come back and bite you!! And farrk you off when it starts poxing out in no time after you have spent to many hours covered in sanding dust and crap!! Trust me I've done it and seen it happen.

Epoxy over bare steel then bog.

[63Ragtop]

Thanks for that bro, don't want to be doing this twice.

Is wattyl super etch any good? Is it a epoxy?

I have watched gun man, good info.

[63Ragtop]

Agh.